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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I Have a heap fo fault codes and I am looking for some advice, fault codes are as follows:
ABS ECU faults:
Permanet fault. Rear left wheel speed sensor. Coherence.
Permanent fault. Communicaton with engine managment ECU fault. Incorrect value received.

Engine ECU faults:
Remote permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel additive pump.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel tank cap presence sensor.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel gauge.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fault: fuel additive low sensor.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel additive ECU.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel additive injector.
Permanent fault. Additive quantity. Fuel additive ECU.
Permanent fault. Additive quantity. Fuel additive low level reached.
Permanent fault. Particle filter. Clogged particle filter.
[There is 1 or 2 more faults I failed to capture in screenshot as it was scrolled off screen]

Multi function display faults:
Permanent fault. Abscence of the communication with CD changer.
Intermittent fault. No +ve permanent of the display.

Airbag ECU faults:
Intemittent fault. supply voltage.
[I cleared this fault and it has since gone away]

Air conditioning fauts:
Remote intermittent fault. THe outsie temperature. Incorrect value received.
Remote intermittent fault. Vehice speed information. Incorrect value received.


I recently bought this car second hand and it appears to have no additive in the small white tank. I parked it up with n/s wheels on breeze blocks to have a good look undereath so the level would have run off with the car being high on one side but should I see any fluid inside it, I could see nothing. I plan to get some additive fluid as soon I can afford to. I fear the filter is blocked and may be causing back pressure in exhaust and I was looking in PP for differetial pressure readings, across the DPF. I could not find this infomation but there were a couple of menus I could no access because I did not know the engine type code. Also the engine sounds a bit tappety, I am not sure if excessive exhaust back pressure would cause this but I do not like to run the car in this condition. I would like to remove the DPF and get a remap but I would need to get it up on a ramp and buy the remapping stuff, this may become quite costly and I may opt for adding a litre of additive first and trying to force a regen. Any advice appreciated on this.

I was pleased to see the n/s rear wheel speed sensor, as I think its a common fault. I hope that if I remove this , clean it up and reseat it I can solve this abs problem. If I fix this speed sensor would it resolve my other ABS fault re: Communication with engine managment ECU?

I have a service record regarding the CD player it reads as follows:
"Disconnected the CD Multi changer due to internal damage to the multi changer. This will require replacement or possibly repair. Traced the fault to a blown fuse within the BSI which could have occured due to the CD player being removed/replaced incorrectly".
The CD player has not worked since I bought the car and I am not really too bothered about it unless it may cause other issues with the vehicle.


As I said the car seems to be a bit tappety but also I have had intermittent issues with starting. When the car fails to start straight away the immobiliser light comes so I remove key lock doors and leave it for a while, then unlock and turn on ignition, try again. However when this happens once it tends to just keep on happenening as the battery becomes weaker and weaker. When I connect the cables and wait a few minutes the car starts immediately. I get the feeling if the car doesn't start first time and I drain some battery power its not going to start and I will need jump start. Do you think this problem is related to a clogged DPF or is there maybe an electrical problem?

Any advice or ideas appreciated.
 

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hi i will tell you about the ones i know about.
Permanet fault. Rear left wheel speed sensor. Coherence.

common fault with the abs sensor, take it out, give it a good clean and clear the code, should be ok after.

Permanent fault. Communicaton with engine managment ECU fault. Incorrect value received.

not sure about this one

Engine ECU faults:
Remote permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel additive pump.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel tank cap presence sensor.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel gauge.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fault: fuel additive low sensor.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel additive ECU.
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fuel additive injector.
Permanent fault. Additive quantity. Fuel additive ECU.
Permanent fault. Additive quantity. Fuel additive low level reached.
Permanent fault. Particle filter. Clogged particle filter.
[There is 1 or 2 more faults I failed to capture in screenshot as it was scrolled off screen]

if im not mistaken all of this are related to the same issue, refill eolys additive and reset counter on pp2000, and hey presto.

Multi function display faults:
Permanent fault. Abscence of the communication with CD changer.
Intermittent fault. No +ve permanent of the display.

check fuses and or wiring, it is not getting power

Airbag ECU faults:
Intemittent fault. supply voltage.
[I cleared this fault and it has since gone away]

Air conditioning fauts:

Remote intermittent fault. THe outsie temperature. Incorrect value received.

not sure about this one but its not a major issue, mine comes up with this too, it is just relatedt to the temp sensor, these sensor if not mistaken is inside the passenger side mirror.

Remote intermittent fault. Vehice speed information. Incorrect value received.

again not sure about this one.

hope it helps a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2002 - 2.0 hdi fault codes

Car started ok today, stopped and started 4 or 5 times. I went to dealers to enquire about additive and they asked about the hose colour, did not ask for VIN. So it is £50 for 1 litre only. Will 1 litre be enough to get going if tank is totally empty?
The dealers asked me what colored hoses I had, I think he meant the hose clips which are green. I was thinking of going to scrap yard and find a car with same coloured hose clips and drain their tanks. What would be the best way yo go about this in a scrap yard? Completely remove the tank or another way?
I hope the car starts again tomorrow and I will take a look at the rear wheel speed sensor and maybe take a run to the scrap yard.
 

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If the car has an aftermarket radio you can get error codes or speed sensor, display and CD changer faults listed
 

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Most of your permanent faults are because the fluid is empty so filling the fluid would be first check the fuel cap magnets the DPF will get clogged without the fluid to allow regen

As said above these faults are well documented.

Engine code will be RHS if 2 litre.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
fault codes

Hi,
I just removed rear disc and the speed sensor seemed to have quite a gap from the magnetic ring about 4-5 mm. I cleaned the magnetic ring and the sensor and kinda bent it back forward towards the ring with a screwdriver, after this it seemed to sit closer to the magnetic ring about 1-2mm. I also jammed a small piece of plastic behind it, not really sure how long that will stay there for. I did not remove the sensor as the allen key I had was not a perfectly neat fit and it looked like it was going to be tough to get out, also one of my front allen bolt head has been sheared off so I was scared of either rounding or shearing off.
After taking it around the block the ABS fault has gone now from the dashboard, but I still have the ESP light on.
As for the DPF faults I am thinking it maybe easier and better in the long run to simply remove it. Of course I need to get the ECU firmware reflashed first so I am looking into this now.
 
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