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Wife's 807 has suffered going into LHM when driving steadily at 50mph, such as during roadworks on the M1/M25 for some years. Engine is great using no oil despite 190K, I have changed the EGR and turbo solenoid valves, boost sensor and checked turbo.
A garage read the codes a while back and came up with P0245 but another contributor with similar symptoms identified a broken rod to the swirl flaps as the cause. I am checking out the swirl flaps (before sending the turbo off for cleaning), how do they work? The plastic rod is in place, should I see the actuator pull the rod up and down as the engine is revved? Many thanks.
 
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Best leave them alone. They have no real bearing on engine runnning.

Sent from my GT-S5690
 

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Diaphram in the swirl valve actuator will have split easy fix about £25.00 for new unit from Peueot. You can also disconnect vacuum to module and plug hose as a short term fix.

The Engine light normally only comes on when cruising and logged codes for overboost and turbo regulation fault are classic symptoms. You can only see actuator operate with Planet etc. Quick check is to remove vac pipe to module push up arm then block vacuum connector with finger or blanked off pipe lever arm should stay in in position with very slow creep if diaphram ok
 

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P0245 fixed with new swirl flap diaphragm

Nothing is easy with an 807 even changing the swirl diaphragm was a 2 hour job as the 3 small Torx screws securing the diaphragm are really tight. Had to use hacksaw with 2 blades to cut slots in the heads. But it is fixed, no light when cruising at 50.
P0245 is for turbocharger wastegate solenoid low and I think what happens is that at 50 in 5th the engine spins at about 1,800 rpm, the swirl flaps close below 2,000 rpm but with the diaphrapm split they were open and the ecu must interpret this as low boost and hence the yellow light.
Can't feel much difference, maybe it is pulling a bit better but the improvement is subtle.
 

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Glad you got it fixed with these split diaphrams normally the biggest clue is a engine light on when cruising and a turbo overboost and wastegate codes logged.

For general info, the chain of events is when cruising swirl valve actuator opens and the split diaphram starts to leak vacuum from the system, this reduces boost as turbo waste gate is vacuum controlled, ecu increases boost this triggers swirl to close, vacuum restored spikes turbo with overboost. It took me ages to trace this the first time.
 

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Invaluable information..... thanks

Had exactly the same issue so after reading the results on this Forum decided to change the diaphragm.
As stated it's a tad tricky however I thought I would add a how to guide.
1. Remove car jack and associated plastic housing top and bottom parts
2. Remove cross bar (torsion bar that travels across the top of the engine bay)
3. Remove interior vent induction housing (this incorporates the pollen filter)
4. Remove air filter cover (leave filter in place)
5. Remove two bolts that hold the EGR pipe to the inlet pipe work. (This gives a slight amount of movement to aid removal)
6. The diaphragm is mounted on a bracket with impossible to reach torx screws. Locate the bracket and the single bolt that holds it to the block.
7. Remove bolt, rubbers and clips attached to the bracket including the oil filler goose neck bracket.
8. Disconnect vac hose from the top of the diaphragm and ball joint from the swirl flap arm.
9. Now it is possible to manipulate the bracket and diaphragm out past the EGR pipe work to enable access to the torx screws.
10. Re-fitting is the reverse procedure.
Whilst there give the swirl flap arm a squirt of AC-90 and check it's movement. May as well check the brake fluid and anything else you can get to it whilst your in the depths of darkness.
Car now runs much much better, more power, no limp mode and better fuel economy.
 

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Hi,
I have found broken diaphragm on my swirl valve, so i changed it and nothing happens.
Is it possible that i have put the diaphragm wrong?

btw. thanks for posting with pictures it helped.
 
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