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Discussion Starter #1
Originally posted in FiatForum, but response is weak and since it's Peugoet's engine...here goes.

ME>
Hi,
Went out to the 'bus' the other week and wouldn't start, just cranks over, with no glow plug light on at all, was hoping the compression would ignite, but it's still too ruddy cold here. Engine has done 100k ('04 MK2 2.0JTD)
Thinking the relay had fried, changed over with no effect. Have the wiring diagrams for the components but it's not very clear on what wires do what on the relay, checked the largest gauge wire going in thinking it should be the main, however only got 3.5v from it?? (give or take). Anyone got any further ideas? thought if glow plugs had fried, then light would still come on, and stay on.
Fuel is being primed into the filter ok enough and dash is bleeping at me once I remove the key after failed attempt. Would take it to peugoet to have the ODB2 read (since it's their engine) but can't get it there.
Further to that had intermittent 'limp mode' issues prior and intermittent 'anti pollution' fault, but I put this down to damaged Air Mass Sensor and leaking fuel filter housing, which since been repaired whilst off the road.

REPLY>
Might be worth buying a fault code reader (do you have a laptop/computer)

Do a Google search fro Lexia3.

You can buy them on ebay for about £100, use it and then sell it on when your finished, cheaper than getting it checked by the dealer which you can't do anyway.

The Peugeot forum have a map of members who own a Lexia and are happy to check codes for other members, It might be worth joining that forum as the Ulysse is essentially the same a the 807, (think the closest member to you is in Ashington)

I had a similar problem recently but it turned out that my timing was out slightly after a cambelt change.

Even now the Glow plug light on the dash only comes on sometimes but she still fires up.

ME>
Ok can't really get quick access to code reader. Will check the status of the chain later on, was going to remove the glow plugs and test/replace them, but I can't even figure out how to remove the plastic power feed that's on top of them.
I've got a can of easy start which I may try first, if that fails, then it's a good chance the chain has gone, in which case I'll be looking for some head - sorry, a head.

Still, no plug light is curious though - ever hopeful!
Oh, sorted +12v feed to relay, but it still no go!

ME>(again)
:update

Tried 'Easystart' and it did fire up (though it sounded like a combine harvester) then immediately cut out with or without changes on throttle position.
So....I know the chain is still intact, what else? is there a fuel cut off? I know the rear pump is working ok as it primed the filter housing easy enough. Could it be an immobiliser issue and if so, how can I test, reset or disable this.


Enjoy the read and any help/advice would be appreciated.
 

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I live near Ashington, and have PP. I don't know whether it will read faults on a Fiat even if it has a Peugeot engine. I am sure someone on here will advise. Let me know if you want me to come and give it a try.
Malcolm.
 

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Glow plugs only work at -5 i think anything above that say -1 they are not needed.

It could be faulty temp sensor if its saying engine is warm be wrong mixture at start up as it tells ecu what to do.
 

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Does it have a Fap filter could be blocked ,

the Cat could be blocked ,

crankshaft wire could be broke ,

a bad earth ,

could go on :nono:

The right thing to have done was get it on to a diagnostics when it was going into limp mode prior to this , leaving it was abit like standing in a field with a Bull and closing your eye`s :(
 

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Martin he sorted the limp mode out but your right no good stabbing in the dark need codes could be upteen things need doing .
 

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Martin he sorted the limp mode out but your right no good stabbing in the dark need codes could be upteen things need doing .
Further to that had intermittent 'limp mode' issues prior and intermittent 'anti pollution' fault, but I put this down to damaged Air Mass Sensor and leaking fuel filter housing, which since been repaired whilst off the road.


Doesn`t say sorted , just thought it was something and replaced it and hasn`t tried it since , is what it looks like too me :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yeah 'limp' mode was intermittent, but could be.... although I thought a blocked FAP filter displayed a unique warning on the display. Only thing that's displayed is 'economy mode active' but this is due to the previous battery being weak, been changed, but I know error won't clear itself until engine is running.
If it is the FAP, I'll remove and do the bucket of soapy water and pressure hose method.

Have ordered code reader, I'll list the codes when that arrives, in any case I'll be able to sell it on.

I'll check the condition of the crank sensor today and where abouts is the temp sensor mounted? but I'm not going to purchase any more parts until I have the readout.

Thanks for the input.

Just curious, using EasyStart wouldn't turn the engine over if the belt had gone would it? even if it was only for 5 seconds....


Update: Well no panic with the timing belt, it seems ok and is in fairly decent nick.
Found another hairline crack in a 10A fuse which what seems to be in the same area as the last one and there is 'un poco' evidence of water ingress, stripped, cleaned up, wd40'd. still, no joy, cranks ok, but no fire.
Also found the mid section of exhaust has sheared at the joining bracket of the backbox. Followed the path of the exhaust from back to front but could not see anything resembling the FAP filter, had backbox, mid silencer, cat then pipe disappears up into engine bay - is it up in the engine bay?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Error Codes

Ok,
Results from the Vgate (or Vtech) this morning;

P0004 Fuel Regulation Control Circuit High
P0005 Fuel Shutoff Valve A Control Circuit / Open
P0006 Fuel Shutoff Valve A Control Circuit Low

Note:- these are the only codes stored whilst it's unable to start, no doubt there be more, but I know dude from garage cleared them before he noted what they were - plank!

So.......yer thoughts?
 

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806 HDi non-starter

I had same problem, non starting but, it would start with a prolonged squirt of quick start into the air intake. The problem was the primary fuel pump in the tank, which was working and delivering fuel up into the engine, but with insufficient pressure. Replaced this (£200) and problem solved. To replace you've got to empty the tank and remove it from the vehicle - all underneath work, so a bit unpleasant, but do-able. Also doing up the large black plastic ring which secures the pump to the top of the tank is difficult. You really need a proper massive 'O' spanner to do this.

Incidentally, mine was about 95K miles when this happened.
 

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Non start issues in the HDIs appear to be more commonly related to the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter or lift pump.
So check the fuel filter first, metal filings in the bottom can point to a failed/ing lift pump (you should be able to hear it when you turn on the ignition), fuel pressure regulator can get gunked up too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Deciding to bite the bullet with this one, it's has defeated me or I gave up.
If anyone is interested in fixing this, just PM me.
Still does not start.
Dual mass flywheel isn't in great nick, but do have solid flywheel and new clutch to go on.
Rear backbox has been changed, new mid section to go on.

Offers?
 

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407 2.0 hdi cranks but won't start.

Hi guys. New to peugeots I'm afraid. 407 hdi, working fine, wife parked on the drive, cranks but won't start. No previous codes, I've not got partner and car stuck on my drive. Any advice? Anyone got partner near Studley Redditch at all? I also need the tyre pressure thing turning off.
Cheers,LEO
 

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You can eliminate the low pressure pump as the cause by watching the fuel filter housing while someone else turns on the ignition. Housing should visibly swell with the pressure from the pump. If its good maybe 'breakdown' so the AA or RAC can read the codes and give you a diagnosis. On our 807 it was the camshaft sensor. Best.
 

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Hi all got an 807 (2.2 hdi 2004 95 k) cranks but doesn't start should the revs on cranking show up on rev meter? I'm thinking it's the cam sensor, going to remove it tomorrow.
 

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I had a problem with the anti pollution fault. I found that the wires to the pressure sensor on the common rail was bad. I followed the wiring to pinpoint the snapped wire. Fixed it, got a PP to erase codes and everything was fine. I live in Norway and also had a problem with starting in -20. I found the glow relay, behind the ABSpump/module and one of the connections there was burnt. Got a new one off ebay (around 50 pounds), easy fix, but a little narrow. An idea is to remove both air filters. Don't know if this helps others.
 

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Hi all, update to non start pug 807 2.2 hdi.

Using elm327 Bluetooth diagnostic obd2 ( £3 on ebay) paired to my phone using free app FAP lite got these 5 error codes:
P0110 intake air temp signal
Short circuit or open circuit
P0340 cam-crank sensor supply short circuit or open circuit/operation of the flow limiter/engine speed signal variation too sudden
P0380 fault pre/post heating relay circuit
Short circuit or open circuit/relay
P1446 fault additive quantity
Fuel additive low level reached
P1614 sensors supply fault
Short circuit or open circuit

Changed cam sensor now getting revs when cranking, crank sensor cleaned, revs up when cranking and spraying duck oil aerosol into air intake, but still getting above 5 errors. I get the feeling that I have a major leakage to ground when I crank with key maybe from the key barrel? Any ideas appreciated, thanks.
 
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