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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 Expert with 180000 km on it. Bought it in October and it lit up the anti pollution fault on the ride home from the seller. I cleared the codes and it didn't come back for a week or so. Then it started to show up on every cold start but would not come back after engine was up to temp and the codes cleared. But I grew tired of constantly starting, get the fault code, drive in limp mode until warm engine, turn off, clear codes, restart.

So I took the EGR valve off and expected a totally clogged up one but to my surprise it was just a thin layer of dry soot/carbon build up. I tested the solenoid/actuator and the valve opened and closed with no problem. Fitted the old EGR valve again but it immidiately went into limp/anti pollution faulty.

So i figured it was the position sensor of the EGR that had a worn out carbon track or similar in the potentiometer so I ordered a new EGR valve. New valve fitted, no codes for two months/5000 km but last week it was back to the same old story again. Anti pollution fault on cold start, run engine in limp mode until warm, stop, clear codes, runs fine with no codes until next cold start.

The code that's alway there is the P0489 EGR A Control Circuit Low. Somtimes in combination with P1351 IDM Input Circuit Malfunction (but it's a diesel so no ignition coils and the engine starts just fine in -10 deg C so I guess the glow plugs control is working. Had some other various EGR codes both stored and pending, e g P2143 EGR Vent Control Circuit Open.

The car runs just fine in limp mode, no problem with idle or anything but since there's limited/none turbo boost pressure (I think) the car is quite unpleasant to drive with poor accelleration.

I wouldn't mind blanking off the EGR but then I need to find some kind of dummy connector that can tell the ECM the correct values based on solenoid voltage. Haven't found any such plug. Could of course build one if I knew the expected values and on which wires and for which voltage to the solenoid. By the way is it just a open/closed solenoid valve control. Couldn't really get it to open partially when I tried the solenoid on the first EGR valve but maybe it's PWM or duty cycle controlled?

Any kind of input appreciated.
 

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The fault codes you get suggest an electrical problem rather than the actual valve, maybe some contact cleaner & re-seating the connectors would help? You can get blanking plates for the EGR & leave the wiring in place, but if your problem is due to the wiring, a blank won't help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Agree that the code P0489 indicates a wiring issue. But I really don’t get why it only fails at cold start and never come back again once the engine is warm and the codes are cleared.

Anyone know the solenoid valve actuator voltage? And is it true DC on/off or duty cycle or pwm?
 

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I'm just guessing as I've not worked on the Expert or Dispatch engines, just on Berlingos up to now. My thinking is that you have a wiring problem that comes on overnight due to damp, then goes away after some vibration / warmth. I don't know how the EGR's work, but I think they are by now electrically operated rather than vacuum as was the case on the earlier 2.0 engines.
 

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Your problem is wiring and its most likely just the high resistance when cold causing the issue you can blank the valve but on these the electrical side needs to work or you get faults anyway so in your case no point in blanking just check the wiring harness properly
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK. Do you know the name/model number of the connector used for the EGR? The harness is quite short and I was thinking of making an adapter/piggyback with female plug on one side and male plug on the other side with straight though wiring and patched in leads for monitoring the signals.
 

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Maybe start with some contact cleaner & then when it's reconnected some moisture repellent such as WD40 etc? If you do it while the engine is hot, it should also have driven out any moisture.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took the connector out, ran a small wire down each connection to clear any oxidization. Sprayed it with contact cleaner and electro protect, plugged it back in. Still same fault...

Measured the connections with ignition on (left to right, lock tab up, cable side):
5V 0V 1,4V 0V NC 5V

The third 1,4V should be the ECM switched ground and the fourth should be permanent +12V. Maybe the fault is on the 12V in the wiring? But then the EGR shouldnt work at all.

If i disconnect the cable and run the car I dont get check engine or stored codes, only pending...

With ignition on and reconnecting the cable I can hear a very silent electronic beep-beep... continously...

Does anyone have the wiring schedule?
 

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I'll see if I can find some diagrams for the Expert 2.0 HDi. Actually if I can find one it'll probably be for the Dispatch but they may be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks a lot. Is there a legend to this? The EGR could for example be either 1297 or 1362 or maybe another one.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok... I read somewhere that the solenoid should have +12V continously and that it is the ground side that is swtiched by the ecu. In the diagram it looks like pin 4 is fed over fuse F10 which I guess would supply +12V. If 1362 is the EGR that is...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have checked the EGR valve with the following results:

Pin 1: 5V Ref
Pin 2: NC
Pin 3: Solenoid
Pin 4: Solenoid
Pin 5: GND Ref
Pin 6: EGR position signal output.

I only had a 4.9 V adaptor available and when applying +4,9 V at pin 1 and GND at pin 5, pin varies from +0,9 V with closed EGR and +3,7 V with EGR open. Transition is smooth.

When the harness is disconnected and key is "ON" the corresponing pins read:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
According to the diagram I have (which is from a Dispatch) this means that the EGR is item 1362 and it should have +12 V from fuse F10 and that the EGR Control solenoid is switched by the ECM on the ground side. So this +12 V is missing and there is possibly alsso something fishy about the +5 V on pin 6 in the harness as this should recieve it's voltage from the EGR postion sensor and not have a standby voltage when disconnected. Time to dig in to the harness. Any chance of anyone having a ECM connector pinout so that I can find:

1352 / F4: +5 V Ref
1409 / L1: Solenoid control
1410 / D1: GND
1412 / K3: Position sensor signal
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Finally found the correct wiring diagram. The egr is 1297 but the pinouts are not the same as for the dispatch diagram I had before. New diagram shows all 5 pin goes directly to the ecu. Connected my old egr (which I belived was faulty) to the harness while leaving the other egr connected to the engine/exhaust. I could now probe the connector from behind while connected and engine running.

Pin 1: Stable +5VDV
Pin 2: NC
Pin 3: solenoid feed voltage, varies with degrees of open valve and polarity changes for open/close)
Pin 4: same as pin 3 but reversed polarity/potential
Pin 5: Stable ground
Pin 6: Varies from approx +1VDC at closed valve to approx +4VDC at open valve.

When the egr is closed and I try to force it open I can feel the struggle from the ecu/solenoid resisting the change. Same if it’s open and I try to force it shut.

So everything as it should be. Reconnected the harness to the egr on the engine. No fault code at the moment but I guess as soon as I drive in to bilprovning (MOT) it’ll probably trip a permanent code...
 
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