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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, I have a '06 407 HDi (136hp, RHR) and it has developed a habit of cutting out when is cold. It doesn't do it immediately, but within the first 2 kms when I give it full power.
The ambient temperature of where I am here in Ecuador is about 15-18 degrees.
I don't have a scan tool but the Citroën dealer here does. They came up with these codes:
P0193
P0337
P1114
P1351
The guys at Citroën were most concerned about the glow circuit relay fault. My understanding is that glow isn't needed unless it's like 0 degrees or less. The thing is the car doesn't have any problems with starting. It's a few minutes later that it happens. Once it cuts out it will start again fine about 10 mins later.
What do you think?
 

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Generic code descriptions..

P0193- Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0337- Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P1114- air intake sensor B circuit low input.
P1351- IDM [injector driver circuit] Input Circuit Malfunction - pre/post heating relay circuit SID803/EDC16C3

P0193 and P0337 are ones that could cause the motor to cut out. I would check the plugs on the sensors and also the wiring to them. Also the plugs on the ECU for corrosion/water.

Live readings would tell you if the fuel pressure is within spec and there was coherence between cam and crank sensors while running and then cutting out.

The addition of the P1114 code also adds to the possibility that there is a wiring/connection problem rather than a sensor problem... to many sensors reported faulty imo..

I wouldnt worry about the P1351 error, this will not cause the motor to cut out and is a common 'ghost' fault on many cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow! Great info Will. You seem to always be the one to respond to my questions. Thank you!

What do you mean when you say:

The addition of the P1114 code also adds to the possibility that there is a wiring/connection problem rather than a sensor problem... to many sensors reported faulty imo..

I'm not sure. Do you think that it could be just one problem, like the connections into the ecu (near the battery?)? Are there other connects I should look at?

I should have mentioned that I had a power-up chip connected, but I've removed it for now. It connected to the fuel rail sensor. With it disconnected the code still showed.
 

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Well, there are 3 sensors being reported as faulty. The chances of 3 all failing at once is unlikely, that is why I would suspect a wiring/connection issue rather than sensor failure.

I would definitely check the ecu first and then the wiring loom from the ecu to the engine. If you can get the ecu pinouts for your particular ecu, then do a simple continuity check between ecu plug and sensor plug, wiggle wiring loom while doing it. Check/clean all the ground connections from the loom while you are busy around the fuse box and ecu area.

Obviously if you are driving it and monitoring your systems live with Diagbox/PP200, you will quickly see what system is failing to cause the engine to just cut.
 

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I had a "cutting out" problem last year. The car would cut out after going a few miles down the road. It always cut out as I was coming to a stop, usually at a roundabout or a junction, it would sometimes start again, and It'd go fine until I was coming to a stop, then cut out again. No amount of revs would keep it going.

Basically it was my fuel regulator getting stuck, once the car heated up a little. it'd stick in the open position, forcing the fuel to loop back to the tank again, bypassing the injectors. It would sometimes unstick in an hour or two, sometimes not.

It was hell to diagnose!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys for the ideas.

For now the problem has just vanished. I checked the connections to the computer and they're looking just fine. I wish I knew what has made the difference but, anyway, he's working.

Thanks again.

Michael
 
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