[hasoodh1]

Hi

I have a 407 sw 2.0 hdi 136 (auto 6 speed) (07 plate) (105k on clock)

Recently I had the thermostat replaced/front cooling fan and timing belt changed (this was due). Now about a week later I have been experiencing juddering/stuttering when driving at steady speed. This happens after 15 minutes of driving and the revs go down and some smoke from exhaust can be seen (not loads, just puffs). When accelerating it doesn’t automatically pick up but does after about 2 seconds and then ok when pulling but soon as you reduce to go steady then its jumpy revs go down like it’s about to stall but it doesn’t stall. On idle it’s ok and when accelerator is pressed a little nothing happens but smoke come from the exhaust. If pressed slightly harder it revs like it’s missed a beat and smoke clears. No engine light come on. This episode only happens once a week, otherwise the car drives perfectly and I think then wow its gone and I am loving it but then it haunts me again. Switch engine off and on makes the car ok but the problem is still there waiting. I have searched for solutions but unable to find anything which describes this type of scenario. Any help would be appreciated thanks

 

[jimmymarsbar]

could be EGR or air flow into the engine, you'll need live data on PP2000 or diagbox

 

[WillNZ]

Black smoke means it is getting too much fuel for the air supplied. There are many possible causes including the cam timing being out after the belt change. You need live data to pinpoint the issue, as Jimmy says.

 

[neecola]

Check this http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums...hiccups-while-regenerating-191082/index2.html
Since it happens once a week lets say 200-500 miles then I am 99,9999% certain you have a vacuum issue, either hose punctured, or electrovalve faulty or throttle body on the intake is not working properly. And I would bet on bad hose.
Now this all is if you havent removed DPF from your car.
In short, car tries to do regen, closes intercooler air and opens recirculated one, only that on recirculated side of throttle body something is not working right so both flaps stay closed thus starving the engine of air.
First check the hoses from throttle body (see in the topic that I linked), make sure none is leaking (take a straw and blow in each of them) make sure that none is loose or disconnected

And checking with PP2000 would be good as well so you rule out that it isnt something else, but for vacuum issue you wont see error popping up. (which goes with your car not showing EML when this happens)

 

[WillNZ]

If there is a vacuum issue, you will get a large mismatch between what the ecu expects from the turbo and what it is actually outputting, cant remember the exact wording in Diagbox live data.

 

[neecola]

I didnt know about that, And it would show a code?
Because one hose you can disconnect and drive normally (untill regen) it wont affect turbo (in noticable way), but other hose will disable turbo completly if unppluged, that first one caused same simptoms that is talked about here

Here is one from 5 days ago

 

[hasoodh1]

Hi

Thank you all for the help and it’s very much appreciated. With this I will be taking my car to the garage to get it plugged in a computer for diagnostics and see what’s going on today hopefully. This was not happening before I had the timing belt changed but I cannot say for certain it’s something to do with that till I get it plugged in and get live data. Also before the thermostat was replaced the car was not getting up to temp on a run so maybe a regen wouldn’t occur if the car thought it was not hot enough to so maybe the fault was already present but because I had the timing belt, thermostat and cooling fan replaced all in one go it’s hard to pin point what’s causing this. About 15 months ago I had the vacuum pipes replaced as the old one was completely perished.

I will let you know you what happens after I get my car looked at and share with you the data and hopefully a solution to this.

neecola thank you for directing me to the link but however as I am new here I cannot view photos till my posts are over 10 but did have a read through the thread and it has helped me to know what checks to do.

Thanks

 

[neecola]

Cheers mate, and you hava a topic for boosting posts nimbers, find it somwhere and just post random stuff so you can see photos

 

[hasoodh1]

Hello

My car is still at the garage and he hasn't had time to see to it yet but soon as I get it sorted I will update you. While I'm here I have noticed on my car that this pipe that is shown in the picture with the arrow is not connected and it is just dangling. This is not a current picture as my car is not with me but an old picture which obviously shows it is connected and I want to know what that pipe is for? When the timing belt was changed the mechanic may have forgotten to attach it back but I will be putting it back when I get the car back. But for now I want to know what it is for and maybe it is related to my reported fault

Thank you

 

[danielr]

Hello

My car is still at the garage and he hasn't had time to see to it yet but soon as I get it sorted I will update you. While I'm here I have noticed on my car that this pipe that is shown in the picture with the arrow is not connected and it is just dangling. This is not a current picture as my car is not with me but an old picture which obviously shows it is connected and I want to know what that pipe is for? When the timing belt was changed the mechanic may have forgotten to attach it back but I will be putting it back when I get the car back. But for now I want to know what it is for and maybe it is related to my reported fault

Thank you

I'll check on mine, but I think it's just a plastic cover protecting the wires.

 

[ashdav]

If it's a 8mm od rubber pipe (your picture is not very clear) it should be connected to a solenoid valve at the back of the rocker cover.
Just below the aircon pipes shown in your picture.
There are 2 pipes connected to it.
You can't see it very easily but should be able to feel it.
This is the valve the controls the turbo!
The pipe is easy to dislodge during a cam belt change.
Ask me how I know!

 

[hasoodh1]

If it's a 8mm od rubber pipe (your picture is not very clear) it should be connected to a solenoid valve at the back of the rocker cover.
Just below the aircon pipes shown in your picture.
There are 2 pipes connected to it.
You can't see it very easily but should be able to feel it.
This is the valve the controls the turbo!
The pipe is easy to dislodge during a cam belt change.
Ask me how I know!

It's the corrugated looking pipe with a green line through it. Sorry my picture isn't clear it was hard to put the arrow in the right place to show what I meant.

I have felt the rubber pipe at the back connected to the solenoid but like you said it's hard to see but as far as I know it feels connected but will get this checked out.

 

[ashdav]

The corrugated pipe is just sleeving that goes around cables.
There are 2 rubber pipes connected to the solenoid.

 

[hasoodh1]

Just an update, I haven't had the car plugged to a computer to get live data as my mechanic hasn't had time to do it. I have taken my car back to the garage who done the timing belt and got him to recheck everything. He said that the timing is spot on and everything lines up. So I can be reassured the timing belt change was successful. I checked my self for any loose wiring and other obvious things that could have been left out or disconnected and found that the oil level sensor was unplugged so I put that back in (I know that won't effect the performance). I have replaced the fuel filter for which the car is performing better and at the moment haven't experienced any juddering yet. I haven't covered enough mileage yet but it hasn't happened in the last 3 weeks. I think maybe it could be happening when the car is doing a regen so I need to take it out for a long run covering a lot of mileage to check. If all ok then I can say it was probably the fuel filter.

 

[hasoodh1]

Hi

Just when I thought my car was going to be ok and it happened on a long run. Car was juddering and when pressing the accelerator it wasn't responsive and when held in the same position the revs was going down and down and close to stalling so to clear this I pressed harder and the revs jumps high then a load of black smoke come out (it's quite embarrassing really). I was near the services and pulled over and looked at the fan and it was spinning so this lead me to believe that it's happening during a regen which I can probably confirm given the timings of when it is happening. After about 5 minutes it stopped and the car was performing great again. I realise this can be a number of things and not just one thing and I know some people say DPF could be blocked and it well maybe but I need to get the car plugged in to a computer. At the moment I don't have any access to diagnostics. I am in the Cardiff area so if anybody is near by or knows anyone who can help it would be appreciated, thank you

 

[hasoodh1]

Hi sorry for the multiple updates but I think I have found the problem and hope someone can help me with what this is as this pipe is not attached to the part (whatever it is). The rubber pipe has a broken plastic bit that looks like it should be attached to the part. If I can find out what this is I can replace it and hopefully this will be the end of my problems. Thanks again

 

[neecola]

I think it should be the end. Those are vacuum valves (throttle body)

and as I see it broke off from the valve, so you either glue it back (which is going to require some ultra skills to make it reliable) or get used one from the scrap yard

 

[hasoodh1]

Hi

Thanks Neecola, I have bought a second hand air doser/throttle body from ebay (genuine from scrap car) for £30. I am having trouble trying to remove the one from my car. The problem I am having is that the other vacuum hose that goes on top of the body is so tight on I cannot get it off. I do not want to break it but there must be a way of removing them safely. Even the damaged one I need to remove the broken piece from it as that is hard to get off too and even from the other end. Can anyone help me with what I should do to remove this as safe as possible. Thanks

 

[hasoodh1]

Hi

I have managed to remove the vacuum pipe and the broken nipple from the other pipe by using a hair dryer to warm it up and a screw driver to slowly ease it out. Anyway cleaned the pipes and other parts link to it after removal of the throttle body as it was dirty. Fitted the new part and it was easy as access is right in front of me. I have driven the car for over 350 miles now and it seems ok so far. I have not experience any juddering/loss of power since. I can't tell if my car has done a regen yet. I'll have to drive it for longer but to be honest I can't see it being anything else.

I would like to thank all that's helped me and especially to neecola who pointed me into looking in that area. You have experience with this problem and its a great help without it I would have been totally lost so thank you :thumb:

 

[hasoodh1]

Hi everyone

This has now been solved. My car successfully done a regen and there was no juddering/loss of power etc and it's now back to how it should be.

Anybody who has similar problems like this I hope it helps them as this thread could be quite useful for someone as it could save time and money.