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you need a trolley jack, 19mm socket for the wheels, locking wheel nut if you have alloy wheels

you then need a torxs set and a 13mm socket to release the front caliper
 

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You will also need a 14 or 15 mm spanner to keep the pins from rotating when unscrewing the bolt with the 13 mm socket, and Water pump pliers or similar to force the piston back.
If you are changing the discs, you need a Torx T45 socket of very good quality to undo the caliper bracket.
(I am quite shure it's Torx T45 but I might be wrong)
Then you will be needing copper grease on all bolts on assembly except the m8 bolts in the pins, they need Loctite if new bolts with locking compound not supplied with the pads


Holt
 

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When you try to undo the caliper bracket, be sure to first remove all the crud from inside the bolt head torx cut out, and tap the torx bit in. There done up very tight, and as there held by locktite, they will creek a bit for the first turn or so. Id use a good breaker bar, with a half inch drive, and if necessary buy the individual socket from Halfords, for around £8. The discs are held on with small torx head srews, which are known to shear, but I find that if you heat them up a little first with a blow lamp, they tend to come out in one piece. Good luck :)
 

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You will also need a 14 or 15 mm spanner to keep the pins from rotating when unscrewing the bolt with the 13 mm socket, and Water pump pliers or similar to force the piston back.
If you are changing the discs, you need a Torx T45 socket of very good quality to undo the caliper bracket.
(I am quite shure it's Torx T45 but I might be wrong)
Then you will be needing copper grease on all bolts on assembly except the m8 bolts in the pins, they need Loctite if new bolts with locking compound not supplied with the pads


Holt
Might even be T55.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have heard some people say that you should undo the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back is this necessary, i only ask as i have had 3 previous HDI's from peugeot/citroen but never undone the bleed nipple ive always just pushed or screwed it back in
 

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Discussion Starter #8
pads and discs arrived there are 2 little bolts in the pad set is that all there should be i would have thought 4 should be in it
 

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You only need to remove one of the bolts on each caliper (normally the bottom one) it will then swivel/hinge out to change the pads. Hence only two bolt.

I always open bleed nipple when I change pads, its stops brake fluid being forced backwards into ABS pump and reduces the risk of inverting seals in master cylinder.

Wire brush and sand paper etc to clean hub before fitting new disc's and some brake cleaner to remove oil/grease from new discs before fitting is also a good to have
 

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If you are changing nothing but the pads, you are supposed to undo only the bottom pin and pivot the caliber around the top pin, but i would always take them both apart and lubricate the pins on assembly.


Holt
 
C

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I've never bought a set of pads which didn't come with 2 bolts on each side? :confused:
The cheap eicher pads ecp sell don't have bolts with them, had a sticking caliper which I didn't have time to sort out so stuck cheapest pads I could get quickly on it til caliper was sorted and to my surprise no bolts.

Times must be getting harder for manufacturer's.

Peugeot Planet owner, Doncaster
 
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