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The information I have is that the Cold start unit is filled with wax and most likely springs as well, when cold wax is hard and holds the lever over to the left, as engine heats the wax melts allowing spring to push on the lead and allow the lever to move to the right for hot running...
I assume the resting position for that lever (in case the screw of the wire is loosened) is in far left position. And if system doesnt function at all...in other words...the lever always remain on the left side and never moves to the right side....the fuel economy goes out of the window?
 

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View attachment 101527
View attachment 101529
View attachment 101528 found plunger it pumped until I felt resistance my dad cracked it after glow plug lights went out and nothing it turned over no smoke from exhaust is there a solenoid on the pump it started to rain so we did not crack off the fuel lines the year is 1995 its only done 34000
Pumping the primer gets the fuel back into the filter housing, the problem of an airlock between the filter housing and injectors will still persist... Prime the filter housing, crack injector unions, crank until fuel comes through, retighten unions, cold start lever to the right and try starting again....
The air will only bleed out if everything is done in the right order and at the right time. From experience you can't miss any steps in the sequence or you will be left scratching your head or replacing parts that aren't needed.... Once you are sure you have no air in the fuel system, that the cold start lever is in right position and it still won't start you can then rule out an airlock in fuel delivery to injectors... If you have fuel and air getting to cylinders then next stage is check that glow plugs are working,, I know you have fitted new glow plugs, but test to ensure they are working and rule out any issue with glow plugs and glow plug relay... Next stage check the injector pump timing to rule out any possibility that timing belt has slipped a bit.
 

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I assume the resting position for that lever (in case the screw of the wire is loosened) is in far left position. And if system doesnt function at all...in other words...the lever always remain on the left side and never moves to the right side....the fuel economy goes out of the window?
When lever is over to the right for cold start it actually allows some extra fuel to be delivered,,,
Lever in left position is for normal running.
What sort of mpg are you getting..
My 2.5d in elddis motorhome averages 25/28mpg
 

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When lever is over to the right for cold start it actually allows some extra fuel to be delivered,,,
Lever in left position is for normal running.
What sort of mpg are you getting..
My 2.5d in elddis motorhome averages 25/28mpg
Mine burns 25% more fuel than yours. But before I blame fuel economy, I need to fix my gearbox first. I dont have 5th gear. It slips over on it. So I run on 4th gear with 72 km per hour at max.
 

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Even with only 4 gears your average is adout 24mpg so with 5th gear it should get closer to 28mpg or better,,,, best iv had was 32mpg but that was on long motorway drive at an average of 55/60mph
 

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Maybe a typo and a digit wrong in your message but from your stated km and litres 560km = 348miles
66lts = 14.5 gallons

348ml divided by 14.5g = 24mpg
At 20mpg it would mean you would only have covered 466km
 

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Then you have a British gallon and USA gallon, you know what solves these issue, use S.I. metric system, lol.
Thank you for reminding me of an important lesson my father taught me many many years ago as he watched me strip and rebuild my first engine.. Never assume your measurements are right until you know your using the right scale, a 2 is a 2 but 2tho is not 2mm
 

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By the way I tried to pull the cold start lever to the right when I tried to start the engine this morning. Absolutely no effect. That means my problem is not the lever. And by default or resting position of that lever was to the left.
 

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Has the fuel filter been bled of all air
Has the fuel lines to injectors been bled of air....
Pulling cold start lever over to the right will not work if the first two steps haven't been done first....
Have you cracked open the injector unions and got any fuel coming through when you crank it over....
Pump the primer again on top of fuel filter housing till you feel pressure, crack open injector unions,, crank until fuel comes out.. If no fuel appears, repeat pump primer, open unions,,, may take a few attempts to clear the air in system..... Only once you know for sure that there is fuel getting as far as the injectors do you use cold start lever.. You have to follow 1 2 3. Going straight to 3 won't work....
Now if you build pressure at filter housing but even after several tries at step 2 to get fuel coming out of injector unions... Then you need to check the fuel cut off solenoid on injector pump.
Put your finger on the solenoid have someone switch on ignition [don't crank engine over] you should feel and possibly hear a click in the solenoid as it activates... If solenoid is faulty/stuck will need replaced...
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
OK update tike I have cracked open the injector lines going from 1 to 4 from the timing belt both one and two a very low dribble 3 and 4 after soke cranking there squriting
I followed the in structure twice we now have fain puffs of smoke coming out of the exhaust
I would of tried again but now out of battery so weighting on them charging
My question is why is onecan two not the sane as three and four 🤔 do I keep going ?
 

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Next time just loosen unions again
As fuel comes out of 3 and 4 tighten them first,,, crank again hopefully will get more flow from 1 and 2 tighten them...
If your getting fuel at injectors then we know fuel cut out solenoid is OK.....
Hold cold start lever to the right and try starting.....
If its still struggling to start then next stages are to check glow plug system is working...
Check injector pump timing
If everything is as should be with glow system and pump timing,, then my next suggestion would be remove the injectors then either strip and clean or best option as they are out would be to replace the nozzles, flame suspressor washers and sealing washers in each injector...
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Out of three and four at first it was a dribble then it started to spray I was hoping 1 an two would improve but as I titled up three and four we got smoke not had that I need to get fuel out of one and two I'm sure that were the issue is
If I get that then I no were sone were I agree solanid must be ok next step once I have fuel yep glow plugs
The Lever does not make much difference I'm dreading it being the pump but strange it's on two
I'll give it another go like I said we have smoke not had that
I'm only helping this as my dad bought it with me mum to go round Scotland before she passed away it been on many a holiday and started up until now
That's the strange bit it's been a trooper oh yea it's defo dissal at the injectors smells strong
 

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Next try don't loosen 3 and 4
Just slacken 1 and 2 see if flow improves..
Even though it may seem that moving the cold start lever over to the right make little difference keep doing it each time you try to start it,,, it changes the injection timing slightly to help cold start.....
Mine was the same never missed a beat in all our trips, then went out to start it and really struggled,,, lost count of the number of times i had to recharge the battery,,, like you it took a while and a few choice swear words to get to the bottom of the problem.... I had already replaced injector nozzles and glow plugs, but by then had air in fuel pipes... Trying to find info was difficult but came across article about cold start system on another forum.. Jammed lever over to the right as had no-one else there to help,,, first couple of attempts produced smoke and attempted to start,, still some trapped air,, quick bleed of injectors and it started.....
Engine will start without holding cold start lever to the right but it will really struggle
Keep going you will get there
 
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