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Hi - first post (other than an intro) will attempt to match forum etiquette and provide details.

Car 2006 107 Petrol Urban 5 door, 50,000 miles, full service history (mainly independent garages). Last ran about 3 weeks ago, no issues. Car was jump started once about 12 months ago - no issues at all with running / starting / electrics until now.

Symptom: Starts easily, runs for approx 1 to seconds and stops, no response when you press the accelerator for the brief time it runs. If you try and start it again from the "run" key pos to "start" pos then it turns but won't fire again. Turn it to off, go through start again and it fires and dies. Battery had not run flat.

What have I tried so far.

Both keys - same problem

Battery is approx year old, seemed to be fully charged, but removed, charged over night and re-installed - same problem.

All fuses in the fuse box checked with a meter - no blown fuses found.

Fuel pump runs when you turn the key to "run" from off, you can hear it, and I have pulled the fuel line from the engine, and tried to start the car - fuel flowed out of the line, so, pump is running, and fuel is making it as far as the engine end of the fuel line.

Fuel gauge shows about 2/3rd of a tank - that tallies with what I remember should be in there.

Have removed the fuel cap (to make sure there wasn't a vacuum build up) - 1st time I did that I got a hiss, think thats a indicator of "normal" behaviour.

I used a generic code reader (yes I know - lexia/diagbox setup on order, but I had the generic reader) - nothing shown in DTC codes.

I have checked all the connectors I can see for sensors, injectors, coil packs - where i could pull the plugs I have done so to look for corrosion. Nothing found.

I obtained 2nd hand crank and cam sensors (not known good but sold as working and I have no reason to believe they were faulty) , swapped out cam sensor, no change. Replaced original, replaced crank sensor, no change, replaced original.

Found this forum - went through the search, came up with checking the key in ignition, open the door, does it bleep test with one of the keys (other one isn't at home at the moment) - car does NOT bleep when the door is opened. Other than that I can't find something to match these symptoms - apologies if I have failed the standard noob test for search 1st.........

Have not done BSI reset - (key that isn't home is the full remote one - so will wait to do that) - but that key does unlock the doors remotely.

So - my current thinking is car has "lost" it's programming for keys, no idea why that might have happened but until I get the diagbox s/ware up and running pretty stuck at what to try next.

General internet search comes back with some suggestions, some wild some plausible - but nothing concrete.

Advice, pointers, other things to check all welcomed - especially when i get the diagbox up and running (hopefully arriving tomorrow) would be good to get some pointers on where to start looking.

Think that covers it - thanks in advance.

Paul
 

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Car would not start at all if the BSI had lost key information. The ECU is locked until a programmed key is present and will not fire the injectors if it is locked so that's probably not the issue. Easily checked when you get the right diagnostics.

I've not a lot of experience with petrol models so can't give advice from personal experience. Diagbox / PP2000 would likely show some pointer. Maybe you will have to wait or contact a member local to you for a diagnostic check. The following topics explain it all....

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/general-discussion-2/how-contact-member-peugeot-planet-diagnostic-28190/

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/off-topic-3/need-20-posts-before-pm-72601/#post459593
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Car would not start at all if the BSI had lost key information. The ECU is locked until a programmed key is present and will not fire the injectors if it is locked so that's probably not the issue. Easily checked when you get the right diagnostics.

I've not a lot of experience with petrol models so can't give advice from personal experience. Diagbox / PP2000 would likely show some pointer. Maybe you will have to wait or contact a member local to you for a diagnostic check. The following topics explain it all....
Thanks for the response and good info on the ECU lock - I would expect the system to work as you describe, but read some suggestions that suggest "the 2secs running is how it works" - hopefully software/cables arrive tomorrow and I can get something more usable from the diags.

Will update this thread with anything I find.
 

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This car is based on a Toyota aygo and is not a Peugeot set up

Check the connections for the immobiliser box that is located behind the bottom of the dash to the right of the steering wheel also open the box and check the chips on the pcb because if someone has done a key and soldered chip back on bad I have seen this on a 107
 

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This car is based on a Toyota aygo and is not a Peugeot set up

Check the connections for the immobiliser box that is located behind the bottom of the dash to the right of the steering wheel also open the box and check the chips on the pcb because if someone has done a key and soldered chip back on bad I have seen this on a 107
I stand corrected - never too old to learn something new :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This car is based on a Toyota aygo and is not a Peugeot set up

Check the connections for the immobiliser box that is located behind the bottom of the dash to the right of the steering wheel also open the box and check the chips on the pcb because if someone has done a key and soldered chip back on bad I have seen this on a 107
Thanks - so the symptoms match an immobiliser issue in this case ? (the aygo/c1/107) - thats good to know. Will check it out next chance I get with the car.

Paul
 

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if the immo box is faulty they are about £300 from dealers and come with 2 new keys coded to them, you then need planet to pair it to the vehicle and it takes about 1 hour to pair it

or you could send immo box to me and i can have a look at it for you
 

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Car is running !

OK - progress (a lot of progress)

Based on the advice above I basically poked around everything I could feel that had wires attached behind the dash on the right hand side of the steering wheel - totally blind just felt around until I found cables, followed where I could until I found boxes or plugs.

Didn't feel anything "click" into place or find anything hanging lose - but - it now starts and runs happily, been through three start, run, stop cycles and while it was running poked around again just to see if I could dislodge anything - again, started and ran no issues.

So - it's a connection issue, to the immobiliser box under the dash.

It's my daughters car - so I am not happy with her driving it until I have had a better look at what I was poking around at - since I want to be sure that anything that is not quite connected properly doesn't choose a bad time to fall out again - so I will be looking at getting to the box and giving it a proper check.

Will post a close out to the thread with what I find when I check the connections properly, but for now, BIG thanks to the contributors to this thread - learned a lot in a short space of time.

Cheers all.
 

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OK - progress (a lot of progress)

Based on the advice above I basically poked around everything I could feel that had wires attached behind the dash on the right hand side of the steering wheel - totally blind just felt around until I found cables, followed where I could until I found boxes or plugs.

Didn't feel anything "click" into place or find anything hanging lose - but - it now starts and runs happily, been through three start, run, stop cycles and while it was running poked around again just to see if I could dislodge anything - again, started and ran no issues.

So - it's a connection issue, to the immobiliser box under the dash.

It's my daughters car - so I am not happy with her driving it until I have had a better look at what I was poking around at - since I want to be sure that anything that is not quite connected properly doesn't choose a bad time to fall out again - so I will be looking at getting to the box and giving it a proper check.

Will post a close out to the thread with what I find when I check the connections properly, but for now, BIG thanks to the contributors to this thread - learned a lot in a short space of time.

Cheers all.
im a vehicle locksmith so its right down my street
 

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Discussion Starter #11
To close this one out

Poked around again today - still can't see really what was the root cause but all connections looked sound.

I got my diagbox up and running (a separate saga) - and just for completeness I read the fault code produced and cleared it down - if it re-occurs I know I am looking at a fresh occurrence.

Since it may help down the line with someone searching for the same issue - the diagbox code recorded was

: P0880 B2799 fault in communication with the immobiliser control module

Thanks again for the help

Paul
 

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Hi although this is an old thread it is exactly what my Peu 107 2008 1.0ltr has as a fault. Can anyone please advise a couple of things please?
I have looked online at possible salvage components and see some show key, key barrel with antenna, Engine ECU and dash cluster. These have one digit difference to mine, but as I'm changing all of them as a paired set will this be a problem?
Also some sell these kits come with another small ECU box that is related to the immobiliser, but I think its main job is remote central locking unit. My 107 don't have remote locking so no evidence of this box. Would this be true? Other threads suggest its to the right of the steering column but the only box I have there is the power steering ECU which I guess has nothing to do with immobiliser. Appreciate any help before I dig deeper. Many thanks!
 

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Hi although this is an old thread it is exactly what my Peu 107 2008 1.0ltr has as a fault. Can anyone please advise a couple of things please?
I have looked online at possible salvage components and see some show key, key barrel with antenna, Engine ECU and dash cluster. These have one digit difference to mine, but as I'm changing all of them as a paired set will this be a problem?
Also some sell these kits come with another small ECU box that is related to the immobiliser, but I think its main job is remote central locking unit. My 107 don't have remote locking so no evidence of this box. Would this be true? Other threads suggest its to the right of the steering column but the only box I have there is the power steering ECU which I guess has nothing to do with immobiliser. Appreciate any help before I dig deeper. Many thanks!
Hi I'm still having this issue above, but its definitely related to when its hot. During the cooler months had no signs of this. Now the sun has come out and on the really hot days the cars fires then dies 2 secs later. Fuel pump can be heard so any ideas what this could be? Maybe a breather somewhere clogged? Expansion in the fuel tank etc? If I persist for some time it eventually runs. Thanks
 

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There is a known issue with the filter built in to the fuel pump which can cause similar symptoms. you can sometimes clear the fault by blowing air back down the fuel pipe as a temp fix or remove the pump from the tank and clean it.

By chance this months Car Mechanics Magazine has a diagnostic feature on the 107 and list the common faults and fixes i think they also list an immobiliser fault (which is a stand alone unit)
 

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Many thanks Windy1603 much appreciated. Yes a frustrating one this as it can go months without doing it then when its does she's having none of it and won't run. Its been baking in today's hot weather so tried it and its fine. I released the pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the cap as these do seem to vent alot when you undo the cap. Thanks for info though, I'm happy to remove the filter and have a go as I don't like being beat. :)
 
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