To get the cable outer free of the bulkhead you need to work inside the car - the cable is a tight snap fit in the hole with plastic "barbs". cut a notch in the surrounding rubber gasket so that you can see the end of the cable outer. Then use a pin punch and a hammer to free the cable from the hole. If brake off one of the barbs which is of no consequence on the old cable. As you have discovered, there is no access under the bonnet due to the steering rack.
The real struggle with this job is access to the top of the clutch pedal to release the spring clip to enable the plastic end of the new cable to be hooked in (this is where they always break). take the nut off the clutch pedal pivot bolt, get someone to open a brake bleed nipple and lower the brake pedal sufficiently to free the captive pivot bolt. Fitting the new cable inner to the top of the clutch pedal is now "easy". Bleed the brake if you have let any air in, and don't forget to top up the fluid. To get the new cable outer back in the hole, refit everything and get an assistant to press the clutch pedal whilst you guide the outer into position under the steering rack.
I replaced an auto-adjust cable with a manual adjust type from a motor factor - very cheap. Beware, there are two patterns of cable with differing bulkhead fittings, both are available. The manual adjust cable has been no problem in use and requires very little adjustment, just make sure there is a little free play at the pedal. Best of luck; it's easier than it sounds when you've done one, and mind your back!
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