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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I've got an injector completely rusted into the sleeve of cylinder 4 (furthest from the gearbox).

I've tried everything to get it out - slide hammer is getting warped from the abuse it's taken, soaked in various things for several weeks, eventually I welded threaded rod onto the bit of the injector that did come out and tried to use that to pull out the bottom 2 inches. Eventually it stripped the thread. the bottom piece is truly stuck in there.

The sleeve also hasn't moved. Looking at cylinder heads, if I remove the rocker cover and camshafts, is it possible to access and remove the sleeve from there? Then I could just replace the injector and sleeve, and hopefully not have to replace the entire head.
Judging from the pictures it looks like it should be possible, but has anyone been in there and done it?

I've read/seen a few things about people removing and refitting them, but it's always been with the cams on just pressing or tapping it in.
What is actually holding the sleeve in place? Could I expose it, freeze it with spray, and then tap it side to side to tease it out?



I think my arrows are actually on the wrong end, but you get the idea!



Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
 

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Just had a look in service box and it calls the tube "non removable pipe"
If that's the case doesn't look good but I would have thought that it must be removable as it had to be put in in the first place!
 

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The tube is simply pressed in to place its not supposed to be removed but it can and does come out your problem would be getting a replacement if its stuck to the injector you will need a replacement and it may not be available !
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the information. It was actually finding an advert for the sleeve that put me on to the idea of removing and replacing it. There is someone selling the sleeve here for £4.89, and a full set of seals and bolts here for £17.80, so I've just ordered one of each and I'll see what happens.

Here's hoping the other 3 injectors will come out so that I can get the rocker cover off...

I'll report back in case anyone else comes across this in the future with the same issue, although I probably won't get around to attempting this for a couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In the end I had to drill out the injector using an 18mm carbide hole saw. The injectors are 17mm wide but the tube is 18mm, and as it was pinned in by rust you have to use the larger bore size. I used a Starrett CTD18 saw, and removed the pilot drill.
In order to make it long enough I got some 10mm steel rod and some steel tube with an internal diameter of 10mm. I pressed the rod down inside the tube most of the length, and slipped the drill bit inside the other end of the tube. I then welded both ends to make sure it all stayed put. I left a bit of the rod exposed at the opposite end to the hole saw and inserted that end into the drill.
It took a while but got there eventually. After 2mm or so of cutting the injector nozzle broke free and started spinning in the hole, which prevented the hole saw from cutting further. I put epoxy on the end of some threaded rod and managed to fix it to the nozzle, and pull it out. The drilling then worked fine. I had to drill pretty much right to the bottom of the injector before it came loose. There was less than 1mm of material remaining when it came free. Bit of a pain, but cheaper ad easier than damaging the other 3 injectors and then replacing the cylinder head plus injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It is all sorted now, been back on the road for a few weeks without any issues. I just hadn't got round to posting the update yet!

While drilling I kept blowing out the swarf with an air gun, and then adding oil to help the drilling. Once the tip came out material could of course enter the combustion chamber. As soon as I removed the tip I moved the cylinder to TDC to limit the amount of space that the swarf could enter. The copper washer protects the injector seat from the drill.
Once I was finished with the drill I taped a narrow rubber pipe onto the end of the air gun, and inserted it into the combustion chamber. Lots of high pressure blasts made lots of nice shiny metallic clouds in the air.
After maybe 8-10 blasts no new material came out, so I cranked the engine over a few times with the injector removed to clear out anything that remained.

I then reassembled everything and started up. The engine was running on only 3 cylinders. No compression on the cylinder that I was working on. Great. Terrible idle, but a bit smoother at higher RPM.
No sign of damage anywhere. I left it running a few mins while testing things and warming up a bit, and then a friend gave it a few good hard revs and held it near the red line for 30 seconds or so.
When it dropped back to idle it was running fine with compression returned. I think a bit of swarf got missed and got trapped between an exhaust valve and valve seat, preventing it from closing. The red lining either flattened it or broke it free. Not ideal, but all sorted.

After that I drove for approx 10 miles, then replaced the oil and filter.

The drilling was a very slow process to keep it accurate and not stray without a pilot drill. I ended up making a press using a piece of wood and a ratchet strap around the engine mount so that I could apply enough pressure while keeping it vertical. I had one leg inside the engine bay and the piece of wood under my arm. Photo attached.

There is also a photo showing the drill bit, one showing the injector tube just before the last bit of the injector broke free (the change to a hexagonal shape tells you that you're nearly there), one showing the bit that broke free next to another injector, and one showing the tip that started spinning epoxy'd to some threaded rod.

The entire part of the injector that is visible beyond the steel tube is what remained seized in the head and needed drilling out. approx 3.5cm.
 

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