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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recently I bought a car for my wife and since she liked Peugeot 307, we went with SW with 1.6 HDi engine with 110hp...

When we first went to check the vehicle before the buy the following fault codes were listed on the engine:

P0420
P0490
P1012
P1142
P1145
P1162
P1446

The mechanic whom I really trust told us that it's OK to buy even with all these foults since the price was decent so we did... we changed all belts/oil and cleared faults...

Later the same mechanic cleaned FAP (but didn't add additive)... additive gauge was crazy for quite some time, sometimes showing empty, sometimes showing full but finally started showing 3/4 of the tank as it is in the small bottle below...

Car runs fine but I'm noticing few things now...

1. Engine has "hiccups" when driven slow and leisure, around 1800 rpm and sometimes smaller hiccups around 1600 and 2000 rpm... it has no problems when driven hard and fast but in case of slow driving it just hiccups from time to time that it makes driver (me) nervous and makes him drive it in range with turbo fully engaged (2200+ rpm)... the hiccup is not big, it's just small one short thing, like loosing a breath for part of second but it's definitely ruining possibility for relaxed smooth driving... if steady gas pedal around 1600-2000 revs, it does it every now and then...

2. Engine cooling fan sometimes stays on for 10-15 minutes after engine turned off... it's weird since temp gauge is never showing over 90/95 degrees...

3. Fuel consumption is high for 1.6 turbo-diesel... 6,5 the lowest on open roads (had 5,5 with previous car, Opel Vectra 2.0 DTI 100hp and when driven FAST on open roads, never took more than 5,5 liters)...

4. Sometimes engine light comes on, everything runs the same and turns off after left off overnight... didn't do another check for faults...

Now the main problem for me with this car are hiccups... elevated fuel consumption is accepted if I succeed in making the engine runs smooth in any rev range... now I wish if we found 2.0 HDi with 110hp since it's lot less complicated than 1.6 but this is what we have...

P.S.
Can anyone identify codes for me... the service my mechanic works in is not Peugeot/Citroen dealership but has whole range of Bosch products including ECU diagnostics...
 

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P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

P1142 Fuel restriction Condition

P1145 Lucas DCN2 - Noise on the needle lift sensor. Incoherence

P1446 Evaporative vac solenoid circuit malfunction

Couldn't find any more. Hope it was really cheap to warrant buying it with all those faults! You need to put your location in your profile so we know where you are and who's nearest to help.
 

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P0420 - Exhaust differential pressure sensor signal - - Probably overloaded FAP
P0490 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit High
P1012 - Particle emission filter (PEF). Maximum number of aborted regenerations reached.
P1012 - Fuel restriction Condition
P1145 - Lucas DCN2 - Noise on the needle lift sensor. Incoherence
P1162 - EGR Coherence
P1446 - Probably additive quantity level low

Sorry it's to the point, was in a rush!

Phil
 

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The picture that the codes paint, at least without going in to more detail is your EGR is probably blocked and your FAP is blocked or at least heavily loaded due to incomplete regenerations, this could be for a series of reasons, lack of additive is one.

PP2000 would quickly identify what is what.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for fault codes, guys...

Hopefully someone might identify similar judder/hiccups with their 1.6 HDi 110hp and if they managed to fix it somehow...

I just added my location, it's not UK... :)

Anyone knows the reason why fuel consumption might be so much up ??? Together with prolonged cooler fan after engine shutting off I thought it might be something wrong with automatic choke which might keep engine both warmer than normal and drinking more fuel... might even be the reason for hiccups...
 

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Thanks for fault codes, guys...

Hopefully someone might identify similar judder/hiccups with their 1.6 HDi 110hp and if they managed to fix it somehow...

I just added my location, it's not UK... :)

Anyone knows the reason why fuel consumption might be so much up ??? Together with prolonged cooler fan after engine shutting off I thought it might be something wrong with automatic choke which might keep engine both warmer than normal and drinking more fuel... might even be the reason for hiccups...
Blocked FAP/EGR are prime candidates for consuming more fuel when it's all clogged up.

As for your cooling fan, that's all part of the regeneration process, and the reason your probably hearing it is due to incomplete attempts at regeneration or it's pretty much always trying to regenerate, due to the above.

Checking the additive and topping it up, doing a counter reset and then clearing the faults and giving a good hard rape down the motorway for half an hour is a good start. Unfortunately you do need PP2000 for this.

After the good run it will either be all right, or it could be totally blocked and need removing and cleaning manually. Again, you need PP2000 to reset the counters after doing so.

Now would be an ideal time to invest in PP2000, I suspect in this instance it'd probably save you some money!

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #7
By PP2000 you mean this:

Lexia-3 Citroen/Peugeot Diagnostic PP2000,Lexia-3 operation guide, Lexia-3 activation

not the Russian SM gun, right ??? :)

Jokes aside, is this the device you're talking about ??? Should I pay attention about version or the plug is as it is but all I need with new models is newer software ??? Is it made in China or the company from China is just cloning it, like everything else on this planet ???

Update for your advice... My mechanic who identified majority of faults to FAP said that it can be either cleaned, REMOVED or replaced with brand new one... That's why we bought it, anyway... He also identified EGR but didn't suggest cleaning (dunno why)... I might ask him to clean it, though... As for FAP and additive, the additive is 3/4 full and it's shows correct when starting the car now... FAP was cleaned and he said that it wasn't bad at all even without cleaning... I do understand that I should do another fault code check, since the engine light came on 2 or 3 times after FAP cleaning, every time turning off after left overnight... it happens maybe once every 1-2 weeks... I'm away from home but will tell my wife to update me with symptoms now...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
PP2000 seems like an awesome device... it's not that I'm avoiding Peugeot services but there is no good one close by... the one that exists around us is rather new service, 5-6 months old only... but I like tweaking and playing with things / fixing car myself if possible...

The company I contacted (I think Irene Lee here on forum advertises them) sells them for $85 but they said it has problems with C5 and 307...

I'm also thinking about bypassing FAP completely with modded ECU software, found it here on forum as well... this place is just awesome, my type of drivers...

But still hoping someone might have had similar symptoms with their 1.6 HDi engine...
 

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PP2000 seems like an awesome device... it's not that I'm avoiding Peugeot services but there is no good one close by... the one that exists around us is rather new service, 5-6 months old only... but I like tweaking and playing with things / fixing car myself if possible...

The company I contacted (I think Irene Lee here on forum advertises them) sells them for $85 but they said it has problems with C5 and 307...

I'm also thinking about bypassing FAP completely with modded ECU software, found it here on forum as well... this place is just awesome, my type of drivers...

But still hoping someone might have had similar symptoms with their 1.6 HDi engine...
Me... and I removed my FAP and cleaned my EGR, then all was well, although before I took the plunge on PP2000 it did cost me £124 to get the fluid topped up and reset.

Things like fuel restriction condition for me was because I was stuck in Limp mode, the back pressure from the shitty FAP also ruined my Turbo's intake compressor wheel, I assume from cavitation.

I think just about everyone who's got a FAP fitted, has had problems, lots of problems!!

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So you had hiccups in slow motion driving (read: follow all speed limits and be defensive driver) ???

Where did you get your PP2000 from ??? Do you know which Hong Kong seller is genuine with "original" PP2000 ???

I am thinking about removing FAP completely... I don't have limp modes... the car drives great, uses all 110hp but price of about 1 liter of diesel on 100km compared to my previous turbo diesel with 100hp and about same performance... and those hiccups every now and then in that rev range... I already figured out that prolonged fan is because it's doing FAP regeneration but after we cleaned it and finally took it for an aggressive spin, it seemed to stop (didn't hear it for 10 or so days)... can't measure fuel economy since I'm deployed and my wife doesn't make lot of km's so it'll be a while until checked again... I'm just scared to remove it since I do not know anyone in Bosnia who would be able to do it... I'm trying to educate myself here on this great forum and try to get all needed items to do it myself (well, with help of my mechanic but I would take care of electronic parts)...
 

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So you had hiccups in slow motion driving (read: follow all speed limits and be defensive driver) ???

Where did you get your PP2000 from ??? Do you know which Hong Kong seller is genuine with "original" PP2000 ???

I am thinking about removing FAP completely... I don't have limp modes... the car drives great, uses all 110hp but price of about 1 liter of diesel on 100km compared to my previous turbo diesel with 100hp and about same performance... and those hiccups every now and then in that rev range... I already figured out that prolonged fan is because it's doing FAP regeneration but after we cleaned it and finally took it for an aggressive spin, it seemed to stop (didn't hear it for 10 or so days)... can't measure fuel economy since I'm deployed and my wife doesn't make lot of km's so it'll be a while until checked again... I'm just scared to remove it since I do not know anyone in Bosnia who would be able to do it... I'm trying to educate myself here on this great forum and try to get all needed items to do it myself (well, with help of my mechanic but I would take care of electronic parts)...
Mine was pretty dire, I'd pull on to a roundabout and the thing would just take a dump and die mid-acceleration, obviously pissing people off in the process! Queue Limp mode and lots of frustration!

Also at low revs, say 35 in 4th or something, the car would surge a lot!

Economy on cruise @ 74mph went from 61~ MPG to 40's as a result of all this, to be fair I'm still unhappy with the figures I'm getting, while they have improved substantially after removing the FAP and CAT, they're still too low (I've done an complete engine change on mine so I'm still working through the cause!)

I would of thought you'd get limp mode with all those codes, I certainly did. So while sorting the FAP out is a good start, you could have other issues.

I personally would concentrate on doing what I could with the FAP side of things to clean up some of those codes, removing it with all that lot wouldn't be the best start, as removal can have issues of it's own.

I bought mine from a UK seller for about £140, I can't remember who, I can log in to ebay later and check, it is obviously a clone, but does the job very well.

Hopefully the guys with far more experience than I will post later and provide there own take on things.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #12
phil,

I almost finished reading whole "remove your FAP filder under 100 quid" thread and it's awesome... Scotcruz is doing amazing support for members... hopefully he'll be around in September when I'll be home and I'm planning to do the same thing you did, all by myself...
As for remapping, did you consider that option now that you have 40mpg to see if it would help ??? Remapping could be the same as with hacking original ECU bin setup file, right ??? Read with Galletto, someone tweak it and send back to you (probably asking for PayPal payment before)... :)
Few days from now my wife will take our 307 to my garage guru to clean the EGR and Wastevalve and see if there is any improvements in engine smoothness... fingers crossed... We bought this car as "temp solution" but if it happens to be able to withstand all these changes and we succeed in making it purr like a cat, we will definitely drive it for at least 2-3 years now... can't believe I fell in love with Peugeot... :)
 

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Me... and I removed my FAP and cleaned my EGR, then all was well, although before I took the plunge on PP2000 it did cost me £124 to get the fluid topped up and reset.

Things like fuel restriction condition for me was because I was stuck in Limp mode, the back pressure from the shitty FAP also ruined my Turbo's intake compressor wheel, I assume from cavitation.

I think just about everyone who's got a FAP fitted, has had problems, lots of problems!!

Phil
Phil, reading this post has made me curious to find out more. As you probably recall I recently gutted and disabled the FAP on my 307, but I'm concerned that the amount of time that passed with it being blocked up may have caused other issues not immediately identifiable. The back pressure was a particular concern so can you tell me more about the intake compressor wheel, and what can be done to check if there's any damage? I'm also wondering if I should clean the EGR because the engine does idle a little rough/jumpy.

Not sure if this is the same as Tana13 but in low revs there are a few momentary flat spots during acceleration. I don't remember this being the case when the car was running ok (all those months ago)

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Afo,

As per previous experiences with TD engines (Opel), EGR valve for old car that never had one replaced is always a welcome thing to do as it can get VERY filthy... the whole operation is not costly and can be done by any local mechanic...

It was my mistake I didn't do that right away after I did big sevice upon cashing for my car (replaced belts, filters and oil)... so now that I'm not home, I'm waiting on my wife to find the time and take the car to my friend mechanic so he can clean it real quick and cheap...

I'm thinking about remapping ECU with latest map to achieve better MPG before I attempt removing FAP altogether... but just wondering should I try with official Peugeot map from nearby dealer that has access to Peugeot Server or a hacker like Scotcruz could remap the old one with similar success... have no experience in remapping but ordered Galletto and will try to learn...
 

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Phil, reading this post has made me curious to find out more. As you probably recall I recently gutted and disabled the FAP on my 307, but I'm concerned that the amount of time that passed with it being blocked up may have caused other issues not immediately identifiable. The back pressure was a particular concern so can you tell me more about the intake compressor wheel, and what can be done to check if there's any damage? I'm also wondering if I should clean the EGR because the engine does idle a little rough/jumpy.

Not sure if this is the same as Tana13 but in low revs there are a few momentary flat spots during acceleration. I don't remember this being the case when the car was running ok (all those months ago)

Thanks
The destruction caused by the back-pressure and the resulting poor operation of the vanes were pretty obvious, if I remember I'll post a picture of the damage, the fins where all chewed up. Also if you gave it a wiggle it was clearly out of spec because the wheel would practically touch the housing.

EGR... it can only do your car good, and it's pretty damn easy to do yourself, even if your not mechanically minded!

http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/maintenance-9/egr-1-6-hdi-15729/ <- I give a crude run down here, but it really is that simple.

Phil
 

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Afo,

As per previous experiences with TD engines (Opel), EGR valve for old car that never had one replaced is always a welcome thing to do as it can get VERY filthy... the whole operation is not costly and can be done by any local mechanic...

It was my mistake I didn't do that right away after I did big sevice upon cashing for my car (replaced belts, filters and oil)... so now that I'm not home, I'm waiting on my wife to find the time and take the car to my friend mechanic so he can clean it real quick and cheap...

I'm thinking about remapping ECU with latest map to achieve better MPG before I attempt removing FAP altogether... but just wondering should I try with official Peugeot map from nearby dealer that has access to Peugeot Server or a hacker like Scotcruz could remap the old one with similar success... have no experience in remapping but ordered Galletto and will try to learn...
I've thought about paying someone to do a proper remap for me, but I'm a software developer by day, so I'd sooner just learn myself and then try it out on my car, which is what I'm currently doing (when I have the time!).

Peugeot won't 'remap' your car in the traditional sense of the word, they'll only do an update should your car need one to fix inherent faults.

A proper re-map will change your DW maps and the such like to turn your 110, into around 130-140, which certainly isn't supported by Peugeot, but thoroughly recommended! But again, I'm pretty sure I'm right in saying it's pointless if you still have your FAP in place, and perhaps even your CAT... I saw bigger gains when I did round two with the CAT removal.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Phil,

Have you ever succeeded in remap of ECU ??? I finally have 20 days until R&R and will be at home for 18 days... have PP2000 ready and Galletto1260 as well... all the work you did on your 407 I would ATTEMPT on my 307... remove FAP (but need remap and right now not sure how I can get it) and probably CAT as well (since those sounds you're mentioning are rather WANTED) and of course, if possible raise torque for about 15% (I presume it won't make difference MPG wise)...

Have been away from this forum for a while since connection is hard to find where I am but as I'm closing to my R&R day, my interest to do as much as I can on my car during vacation is rising high...
 

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Phil,

Have you ever succeeded in remap of ECU ??? I finally have 20 days until R&R and will be at home for 18 days... have PP2000 ready and Galletto1260 as well... all the work you did on your 407 I would ATTEMPT on my 307... remove FAP (but need remap and right now not sure how I can get it) and probably CAT as well (since those sounds you're mentioning are rather WANTED) and of course, if possible raise torque for about 15% (I presume it won't make difference MPG wise)...

Have been away from this forum for a while since connection is hard to find where I am but as I'm closing to my R&R day, my interest to do as much as I can on my car during vacation is rising high...
http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/maintenance-9/remove-your-fap-filter-under-%A3100-13017/index32.html - This will tell you all you need to know, I have done the FAP removal work myself, and I've done a few minor tweaks to my map, but nothing major as I don't feel the need to go much further than what I've already done.

My fuel consumption has improved over what I was previously getting, I'm getting low 50's around town and 67~ @ 74 on a motorway, so that's all good.

I currently wouldn't worry about an actual remap, concentrate on getting the ECU Fap side of things removed first, and then you will probably find you don't need one.

Phil
 
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