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Old 24-05-15, 07:40 AM   #1
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Default Changing an 16v 110 bhp engine for an 8v 110 engine

Hi, I have a 52 reg expert 110 bhp 16v engine and have just replaced it for a 110 bhp 8v engine out of a 56 reg. I was hoping to be able to use the ecu but the fuse box loom is totally different so I have has to keep the 16v ecu which runs it fine but I have a couple of issues. I just can't get a good brake pedal. It is very spongy and takes ages to stop me. Also the turbo has stopped working and has thrown up and erg fault on the diagnostics machine. The 8v has only done 20k and was driving perfectly fine before hand as was my 16v which had done 285k hence why I wanted to change it. Is my problem vacuum related, could the issue be with running the 16v ecu. Has anyone ever done this conversion before? I don't fancy changing the loom but it would be the only way to run the 8v ecu. Also the 8v has abs and my 16v doesn't. I'm just wondering if the ecu's are set up differently in regards to vacuum. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Everything else seems to be working fine.
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Old 24-05-15, 10:25 AM   #2
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I have done loads of these conversions you can use original ecu & loom etc and will run fine.however they will always have throttle egr fault as most 8v engines dont have one unless you know what your doing.
Turbo and egr could be faulty yes due to no vacuum. Suggest you investigate vacuum pump and all pipes 1st.
Where you from ?
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Old 24-05-15, 10:56 AM   #3
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Hi, I'm in Birmingham. We're going to look at blanking off the egr today as we did this with my last engine and it ran a lot better. Hopefully this will solve the turbo fault as it was working fine until the egr fault popped up. We have checked the vacuum pump and all the pipes and it all seems to be working as it should. Plenty of suction at the servo etc.
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Old 24-05-15, 01:01 PM   #4
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Its not the servo side you need to check its the thin pipes
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Old 24-05-15, 04:50 PM   #5
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Yep reliable knows what hes doing !!! Helped me out , if you get chance reliable can you read my thread,
Cheers Ed,don't wanna jump on Mattys
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Old 24-05-15, 07:38 PM   #6
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Blanked off the egr today and turbos working fine again now. Egr was not sooted up though so not sure why it failed. Just got very spongy brakes now. Put some new pads in today as well and adjusted the rear shoes as much as they could go which has brought the pedal up a bit more but when braking they just don't stop me anywhere near as good as they should. Gave them a really good bleed as well today, defo no air in the system. Only thing I haven't changed now is the master cylinder.
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Old 24-05-15, 10:12 PM   #7
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EGR was probably being opened due to a faulty solenoid allowing vac constantly or it was plumbed in wrong.

As for the brakes WHY did you swap stuff were the original brakes working fine is the pedal fully returning when you release the pedal.
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Old 25-05-15, 12:56 AM   #8
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My brakes were fine before I just wanted to use as much off the 20k vehicle as I could and as the engine was out it was easy to swap the servo as it's a right pig normally. So far brake wise we've changed front pads, servo and rear compensator as it was very rusty and seized. Pedal is returning as usual on release it's just very spongy like there's air in the system but there's not. If you apply the brake very hard it just doesn't pull up as well as it did before.
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Old 25-05-15, 07:45 AM   #9
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Did the newer van stop ok prior to robbing it

You have given yourself a needless headache it must be something to do with the pivot linkage assembly behind the servo there are various pivots and joints some are adjustable.

check caliper slides are free clamp the front flexi pipes to see if pedal improves if it does there is still air in system
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Old 25-05-15, 08:24 AM   #10
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Hi, the donor vehicle drove absolutely faultless prior to the change over. I drove it over 300 miles beforehand to be sure everything was working as it should.
We never touched the pivots to the rear of the servo as we put the whole lot in complete with the bars that run across the bulkhead from the drivers side.
The pedal does feel like it has air in the system but on bleeding there isn't any. I have to say though it is improving very slightly the more I drive it.
I will try clamping off the flexi and see what happens. Thanks again.
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