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Old 14-02-19, 05:55 PM   #1
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Default Overheating

Hi all, I have a partner van 1.9 dw on a 53 plate and its overheating, this started at the beginning of January and I can't get to the bottom of it. It was due a timing belt so I decided to replace the waterpump and the thermostat as I've had it since it was 4 1/2 years old and neither has been replaced, but it was still overheating, the funny thing is that the temp. gauge doesn't go up far (it will "overheat" after about 5 mins) and it drops right down and then flies up, then the beeping starts and the stop warning is flashing. The top and bottom hoses and the radiator are all stone cold and I have warm air through the heater, I have had the rad out and it is fine, no blockages whatsoever, I also knew that the maf sensor was faulty so replaced it when I changed the timing belt. I have a fault code reader but the instructions say that it will not work with my van as its a 53 plate (54 onwards only), but earlier in the week I plugged it in and managed to get a code - 0407 and it read " Remote permanent fault, Coolant temperature information incorrect value received. I looked it up to find it was for the egr, so I checked the egr valve and the egr solenoid valve to find that the solenoid valve was faulty, I replaced it today and its made no difference. Should point out that I checked the temp sender unit on top of the thermostat housing and its ok, wiring is also good. Does anyone have any idea what's causing it, be grateful for any advice. Thank you.
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Old 14-02-19, 06:35 PM   #2
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Did you bleed the cooling system properly when refilled it?.The should be a bleed screw by the heater hoses, and another near the thermostat housing.
I came across a Mini with similar symptoms to yours a while ago, it had a bad radiator cap, the cooling system wasn't holding any pressure, as the engine heated up it puked out coolant.
If this started suddenly it is more likely a component failure rather than a radiator that has got clogged over time, it would have been running warm for some time if that was the case.
Maybe a friend has a similar car who would let you see if trying the cap from their car makes a difference?.

Roger.
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Old 14-02-19, 07:31 PM   #3
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Default Overheating

Hi Roger, no i didn't when I first refilled it it, I always switch the heater onto hot and turn it on ( have antifreezed the van 3 or 4 times without a problem ), but have done since, I've spent about 6 days trying to bleed it if I add up all the hours spent doing it, thought I just had an airlock but the heater always works. There are no leaks anywhere, I have even pressure tested the system, I don't have white smoke either so I know its not a head gasket and as soon as the temp gauge goes up the the rad fan cuts in (cooling a cold rad and cold hoses). Unfortunately I don't know anyone with a similar vehicle, thanks for replying Roger.
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Old 15-02-19, 03:30 AM   #4
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When I have overheating problems, I get out my IR thermometer and shoot the upper and lower rad hoses, several readings across the radiator face, the top and bottom of the thermostat housing, spot shots across block/head and the heater hoses if they are visible. This will tell you the heat spread across the whole system.

If the engine is ACTUALLY hot and the upper/lower rad hoses are cool [as you state above], then I would suspect a jammed thermostat [temp readings on the thermostat housing will show hot/cold side]. New thermostats can be faulty out of the box...

Get readings done [IR temp guns are cheap], otherwise you will be chasing your tail around, much like trying to fix the infamous antipollution message without PP2000. It will break your piggybank in the ensuing sparesfest
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Old 15-02-19, 04:51 PM   #5
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If the fan is coming on and the top hose is cold to touch, then either the thermostat isn't opening (I know you replaced it but it isn't unknown for new parts to be faulty), or water isn't circulating. I would discount the latter if the heater gets hot.

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Old 15-02-19, 04:59 PM   #6
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Sounds like a circulation issue to me rather than actually overheating when these overheat they pressurise the coolant and blow it out the cap.

As already said get a thermometer and read temps as if it is not circulating you WILL end up with a cracked head.
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Old 15-02-19, 06:43 PM   #7
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As you also replaced the pump it might be where the problem is. Its not unknown for the impellor to spin on the shaft due to it being of poor manufacturing.

As for the thermostat just whip it out and test it by gently heating water until it opens whilst using a thermometer to check the temperature.
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Old 15-02-19, 07:16 PM   #8
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Are you going by the temp gauge or can you actually hear it bubbling hot? When you say you checked the temp sender how did you do that?
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Old 16-02-19, 09:34 AM   #9
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Default Overheating

Hi gents thank you all for replying, the issue is now sorted. The stat is good because the first one I put in didn't work, for the first time in over 30 years I didn't check it before fitting it and got caught out, I got it replaced and that one worked fine. I had heard about the issue with the waterpump so I checked that before fitting it and it was good so I also thought that it was a circulation issue. When I checked the temp sender unit I could only test it as an ntc (as temp rises resistance decreases etc), anyway it was playing on my mind Thursday evening so yesterday morning I ordered a new temp sender unit and one of the lads picked it up for me whilst he was out doing a breakdown, I checked the resistance on the new sender unit last night and it read 8.00 kohms, the old one read 5.93 kohms, so assuming the new one was good (cos new can be faulty) I swapped it over and now its fine. The gauge was telling me that it was overheating when it wasn't which is why the hoses and rad were still cold because the stat wasn't hot enough to open and let it flow around the system. I hope the info on the sender readings is helpful to others, and again a big thank you to you all for replying and for your advice. The real funny part about all this is the fact that in all the years I've had it she has never let me down and I was still driving it with this issue, but I told her I was going to replace the timing belt and the water pump and then trade her in and that's when all this started, so be warned gents. Thanks again.
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Old 16-02-19, 11:00 AM   #10
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Good job. The sender was what I was thinking especially since it was jumping around a bit. Thanks for the info and updating the thread! Sometimes the simplest things are the solution!
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