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Old 23-04-14, 06:07 PM   #1
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Default Carpenter/woodworker ??

Anyone on here a carpenter or woodworker ?/ We have just bought an antique/second hand Pine welsh dresser that is in need of some TLC and unsure of the best treatment for it. It is old,very old and dirty/grubby/dusty. Mrs T is currently washing it with Pledge for wood to get it clean, and the wood is very dry with marks where items have been stood (think sun bleached). Our first thought to protect/enhance the wood was a varnish but we now think maybe oil or wax may be kinder/better.

Anyone know anything about wood and best approach.
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Old 23-04-14, 07:27 PM   #2
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Will speak to brother in law over next day or two. He does furniture/wood restoration.
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Old 23-04-14, 07:35 PM   #3
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Old 25-04-14, 07:27 PM   #4
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Anyone on here a carpenter or woodworker ?/ We have just bought an antique/second hand Pine welsh dresser that is in need of some TLC and unsure of the best treatment for it. It is old,very old and dirty/grubby/dusty. Mrs T is currently washing it with Pledge for wood to get it clean, and the wood is very dry with marks where items have been stood (think sun bleached). Our first thought to protect/enhance the wood was a varnish but we now think maybe oil or wax may be kinder/better.

Anyone know anything about wood and best approach.
Lord Sheraton furniture wax is good (think we bought it from Asda) applied with a lint free cloth. Alternatively, after cleaning (lemon/vinegar in water applied on a damp cloth will shift no end of clag), a rubbing wax (B&Q used to do one) can be used - I applied 3 coats at one hour intervals to a "virgin wood" coffee table I made.

You get a nice matt, but very smooth finish that will repel water long enough to mop up spillages (i.e. the time to swear, run to kitchen find kitchen roll holder empty, search for new roll, swear again and run back to lounge) but not heat resistant. The old finish can be removed with wire wool and 180 or 240 grit sandpaper and then a replacement rubbing wax coat applied if damage does occur.
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Old 27-04-14, 05:28 AM   #5
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When cleaning you can use a fine wire wool to move ingrained marks. Clean with the grain of the wood. Certainly apply wax/oil rather than varnish first.

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Old 27-04-14, 05:36 AM   #6
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Only varnish it if you intend to sail in it across the ocean. Wax is a good option but hard laborious work, I'd go for the oil finish, Ikea do a good finishing oil if you can't find one elsewhere. We have a 'future' antique real wood dining table which has had a couple of treatments with the Ikea oil and it looks good when treated.
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Old 28-04-14, 08:58 AM   #7
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Only varnish it if you intend to sail in it across the ocean. Wax is a good option but hard laborious work, I'd go for the oil finish, Ikea do a good finishing oil if you can't find one elsewhere. We have a 'future' antique real wood dining table which has had a couple of treatments with the Ikea oil and it looks good when treated.
Hi Storeman,

I use Danish Oil - leaves a smooth matt finish with a hint of a sheen. You need to leave the rag in the fresh air or under water until the fumes have dispersed - no odours, just the chance to "Come home to a real fire" (remember the Coal Board ads?) if the rag combusts!

We are about 10 miles from a Scottish Hardwood social enterprise scheme. They sell native hardwood "rejects" that are not good enough for the furniture trade because of irregular grain figuring (it's what makes the wood so beautiful - it's nature at its best) so for 12-15 I can get a slab of, say, silver birch (1 metre x 50-60cm).

I then buy a mirror from a charity shop (often attached to those oval contiplas faux wood panels from the 70s - use the backing as a template to make a bigger oval) and attach it to the slab of wood - new mirror with natural wood backing for about 10 (the piece of wood is usually big enough to get 2 mirror supports).
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