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HDI Problem Pug / Head scratcher?

7K views 44 replies 6 participants last post by  JarvisDriver 
#1 ·
Hello Forum!

56 plate 207 HDI 112k on the clock and dying slowly…..
Unfortunately its going to be a bit difficult to cut a long story short, I don’t want to miss any details that could help resolve the problems im having with my Pug 207 HDI (56 reg – 2006)
I purchased this car from a Used car dealer about 2 months ago now, and since the first week there has been issues, some more serious than others but I will mention them all as I write on.

My main problem is this: The car only reaches 2000rpm and will not go over 70mph regardless? I have been told that the car is not in Limp mode but a safety mode? I have checked the Turbo and its fine as far as I can see, on the second week of ownership (previously everything was great!) I found out that the rear brakes were seized after receiving an on dash ABS and Braking system faulty messages, I had new calipers, discs and pads fitted out on the rear and all is sorted out at the cost of £300+ (Dealer warranty not interested!) still a bit squeaky and squeechy!
After the new brakes upon a 30 minute drive “beep beep” Anti pollution system fault message!
Great!.... After running my own diagnostics 10 error codes told me that the EGR had gone (Completely broke and bouncing about), So for £450 I decided to have the EGR Blanked off and removed from the ECU (Many thanks Zen sport (Top Notch service ) and now with no EGR I get zero error codes, nothing, no permanent codes remain in the ECU, the tuning company told me that the Re-map and delete job should have upped the cars BHP from 90 to 125 but the was an issue where the car would not snap out of its safety mode? With a few options we collaborated over ideas and only the DPF, elloys fluid came to mind that could be causing an issue?
I can replace the DPF (But no error codes given?) or have the DPF cleaned, Have the DPF Removed (+ECU Delete),or have Peugeot check the Elloys fluid and pump?

On inspection I have noticed a lot of oil (black oil) sitting in the inlet pipe of the Turbo, This oil is spitting out of the rocker breather quite a lot, im sure its not supposed to be like this? I know the oil is not coming out of the turbo bearings, the turbine in the turbo is set nice and central and rocks evenly yet spins perfectly central (no grinding noises or screeches) and there is evidence that the oil is defiantly coming from the rocker breather, the question is why?
I have gone over the problem in my head and its logical to say that the DPF is cooked (totally) 112k on the clock and never had a new DPF, (But no codes?) anyway if the dpf is blocked up then I guess that it would account for the car not wanting to start up when warm which always happens! –starts cold fine but not after a 10 mile run?, so with a baked DPF perhaps there is an abundance of back pressure causing the engine to kick into its “safety mode” or it could just be huge pressure slowing everything down and in turn either way causing that rocker breather to chuck oil down the turbo’s in take pipe?
So all the problems are:

Wont start when warm (turns over and kicks out the ecu and all aux power, then starts eventualy) but always starts when cold.
Limited Speed, 2K revs no more, feels like the driving without a turbo but the turbo is working fine to my knowledge, it was replaced (the turbo) at 110k am now at 112k on the clock
EGR was buggered, so blanked, deleted and full remap job professionally done.
Brakes are all good now, new air filter, fuel filter will be replaced this week than on to an oil change and filter.
The car is very tidy for its age, I do know it never once had a service and was not looked after engine wise, I doubt that it had ever had an air filter change or pollen filter as they were completely Black when I removed them! (Baked in black dirt)
Its like the symptoms of the DPF trying to regen? I am clueless about what to fix first and now the real issue for me is budget!
The cat cost me 2000, then the braked issue - £300+ and then the EGR job (inc egr delete) and remap £450+, also done fuel additive (d-tox) and DPF / Injector cleaner additives, air filter, fuel filter and more or less my budget is blown now with all the problems that stacked up.
Plus, Does anyone know a cheap DPF fitter in East Essex (Colchester area), I can just afford the new DPF and a ton + vat for fitting then I’m absolutely broke!

If any one can help me out with what’s going on with this 207 have idea or questions – your all welcome and I will be grateful for any responses.

Cheers.
 
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#3 ·
Its an ELM unit with Pro-Scan with add on plugins, so universal.
Yeah, been looking at PP2000 stuff on here, would not know who to get the set from to be honest (software and socket), but the re-mapper did also have a good natter with me and in that conversation he said that there were no existing codes, and none were delivered after the car was sent out on its test drive after the remap?

So, what ever is wrong probably includes a damaged sensor perhaps? may be why I am getting no codes, I still suspect the DPF to be honest, a badly looked after 110k 207! DPF must have had it by now surely? x by the fact that when the turbo went in its life time a few k's ago before I owned it, it was probably driven for miles day in day out before the replacement was fitted (dumping LOADS of oil down the DPF), this is what I suspect, its too much like the cars stuck in regen mode and its not happening and causing back pressure to add to the mix.
 
#5 ·
I would get original map put back on the car and see if any of the problems are resolved. You could have a poor egr map removal which is affecting boost and other ECU control systems.

If the problems remain you can always reload the mapped file if you download it before put original file on ecu.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the responses, I have searched up Eccles and will get in touch, I see he has a proper diagnostics set going on.

As for the original map,..... That's not really something I want to do or even try after just paying a pro to do a custom re-map and EGR delete, see I have no EGR now as the previous one was literally shafted and gave me the anti pollution errors - including what put the car in slow-mo mode!

Now the EGR has been blanked and deleted from the ECU completely, re-installing the original map would no doubt bring up EGR errors all over the place.
 
#8 ·
Honestly, I drove the car today and around here got up to 3rd gear and my foot was stuck down hard on the gas pedal and the car was struggling to get to 2k revs?

The car was fine for 2 weeks, then the ABS fault with finding seized rear calipers and basically no Pads left at all on both sides and shot discs to add to things, then after that EGR... and it was on getting the EGR error that killed the power.

I have no EGR codes now but then again perhaps a Planet Peugeot diagnostic will show some? I am sure that ZenSport ECU remappers would have told me if the EGR blanking and delete was causing this no power issue, the main man there was myth'd that the power was still gone and he even said that they are and have done the same custom re-map and egr delete on tons of pugs and fords with the same engine? that's why im not wanting to scrap the custom re-map, doing that is almost £400 down the pan.

Not happy! :(

But thanks for all the replies people :)
 
#9 ·
Is it a 90hp model? If so you needent worry about the DPF as they were not fitted to the 90hp models until the euro 5 emissions regs came out in 2010.

The oil in the turbo inlet if from the breather, this is normal

RE: the loss of power unplug the MAF (just off the airbox with an electrical connector coming from it) then take it for a drive and see if it improves
 
#10 ·
Thanks, Ill give that a try first thing tomoz, wish I had of known about the DPF, no one has told me that and I have just ordered one based on my reg?!?!?!

It is a 90BHP model yes (or was!), but to be honest everything and everyone has told me that it has a DPF, the one that splits with the CAT? even the Diesel injection company told me that it had one? and the Haynes book mentions the DPF?....

Well at least I have 14 days return on the DPF if it turns out I don't have one! like you say.

Thanks again.
 
#11 ·
I would be very surprised if it had a DPF as initially only 110's were fitted with them, they were only fitted to the 90's when the euro 5 emissions regulations were brought in (this is correct for the UK anyway, it may be different if you are in a different country!).

I would disconnect your MAF though and take it for a drive as this is a common area for causing poor running, particularly if it has got dirty which yours may well have done if the turbo has previously blown.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for your message, that's all great, Ill get back to you with the VIN, as for the oil its puddles, black puddles of oil, fills the bottom end of the intake pipe up to the seal (orange red rubber ring), its definitely coming from the breather as you can see a line of oil, run mark from the breather joint.

Thanks again.
 
#18 ·
Are 100% that the remap was done correctly. No logged error for MAF would make me think they have screwed up the trouble code table or other areas of map which could explain lack of codes and engine light but symptoms like limp mode
 
#19 ·
I was thinking the same thing, but no, They are known for good work and good results, The with the MAF Sensor disconnected the MFD threw up the Antipollution system fault today, when I first disconnected it I was only out on the road for 15 minutes, today I disconnected it again and after 20 minutes I got the error and error codes which were both (x2) MAF description errors codes (good old ELM got them up with no problems or required digging around), Have reconnected the MAF circuit and cleared the codes and MIL, Another thing I did today is and as I did not have an "o" ring fat or big enough I used PTFE on the breather pipe to main inlet pipe and then secured the original "o" ring in place, its a tight fit, much more secure than just the "o" ring (and this a temp fix until I get a better "o" ring on there) but im sure the car has gained some pokiness, it sounds a bit smoother as well, may just be me kidding myself, I will check the turbo inlet end tomorrow to see if a vacuum has been gained enough to stop the rocker breather spurting tons of oil down to the turbo, I guess without a good vacuum the turbo literally sucks the access oil down the pipe?

See how things go and let you all know.

Many Thanks.
 
#20 ·
Latest update:

Diving today, 30 - 70mph with the new "o" ring in place, all codes and MIL cleared and still wont go over 70mph, tons of Blue and Black puffs and trails of smoke coming out of the exhaust, I can also now notice exhaust gas smells or engine bay smells in the cabin coming from the air vents, I have checked the entire exhaust system from back to manifold and can not see any gas leaks?

This damn car - I tell ya!

Any ideas on the smoking? my thoughts are oil in the diesel? no signs of a water leak of mayo in the oil.

Thanks all.
 
#22 ·
Hey Thanks!

Well, what do you know! injector 1's washer has had it, I found that written on one of the cars documents / invoices about a month old now, there are no carbon deposits around any injector - not even injector 1 but there are some old (as I can only describe as) larva, as in volcanic larva, black burnt on hard splatter marks and a small solid puddle of whatever this was (well before I purchased this car I would say) and some of this larva had jumped all the way onto some exposed cables and burnt into them, I have repaired this and removed this deposit from the wiring area, the rest of it is well backed in all around injector 1's housing, no sign of it actually on injector 1 at all.

I am going to have a clean up of this area and keep an eye on the injectors for and sign of black carbon build up as you describe, I am wondering how much of a difference a new seal or washer will make to the situation as at the moment every penny I have spent (well over £600) on repairing things like the problematic EGR, ordering and purchasing a DPF when I didn't even need or have an existing one installed, the seized up brakes, egr cleaner, injector cleaning additives and so on, oh and filters...

I am also going to take the PCV apart as I believe that the diaphragm system is not closing as it is meant to do so.

Every ones help on this forum is making the whole job of getting my car back to how it should be (or should have been!) a lot easier so I am thankful to all of you ;)
 
#23 ·
You said the washer was noted down as being gone, was it changed? If one is done all 4 should be, if it hasn't been changed its more than likely what is causing your issues and would definitely be why you can smell diesel in the cabin. There are 4 washers to each injector ensure all 4 on each injector is changed, they are (or used to be) cheaper to buy from ford than from peugeot.

I'm not totally sure how you actually managed to buy a dpf for your car but you should be able to return it.

The breather system will spit out what looks like a lot of oil but unless the amount being lost is causing the dipstick to empty really quickly I wouldn't worry about it. Diesels do this.
 
#24 ·
Cheers mate,

The DPF situ, I found on ebay, under the compatibility table my model and yeah was in the list so I made the purchase, I ordered by phone and the customer service bloke said "hold on while I check for you if its the bolt on type or the half CAT type" he then came back and told me that it was the half CAT DPF tank and sold me that...

Ive seen sets of injector seals for all four injectors on ebay for £44.00, yeah there is four washer seals (4 of the 4 being copper washers) so if you think this is a better price than Ford I will get them from ebay.

Thanks for your help.
 
#26 ·
Just had a good look at the injectors, as mentioned briefly before, its injector 1, it is black all the way up and all of that thick black grub is set all around injector 1, I also dabbed the area with a clean white cloth and it would look like there is residue of diesel? to clear to be oil, slightly yellowed residue.

Could this be what is also causing my power drop and also that fact that the car wont start when warm?

I have a valid warranty still which covers this and that, if I list the areas it does cover is there anything that you think the car would benefit from having replaced under the warranty?... as in what other damaged has this injector issue caused?

I will drop a list in bellow this post.

Thanks

(ps. I have about 4 months left with this warranty, that I have not yet used at all, everything that has gone are all things that the warranty does not cover)
 
#28 ·
Just had a good look at the injectors, as mentioned briefly before, its injector 1, it is black all the way up and all of that thick black grub is set all around injector 1, I also dabbed the area with a clean white cloth and it would look like there is residue of diesel? to clear to be oil, slightly yellowed residue.

Could this be what is also causing my power drop and also that fact that the car wont start when warm?
Yeah judging by what you have described the seal for injector one is gone, this would very likely be causing you the power issues as the compression in that cylinder is going to be low, can't say for sure if its causing the warm start issue but wouldn't be surprised if it is linked. Yes the residue is probably diesel.

Warranty: VGS automobile

3 star agreement covers:-

Engine: Rocker assembly, inlet and exhaust valves, valve guides and springs, cylinder head, stretched head bolts, push rods, camshaft, cylinder bores, chains and tensioners, timing gears, oil pump, pinions, pistons and rings, gudgeon pins, con rods and bearings, flywheel and ring gear, distributor drive.

Engine: does not cover turbo

Diesel Injection: Injection pump only.

Fuel system: Mechanical and electrical pump.

that's about it for this area of things, the warranty also covers some clutch, gearbox, drive system, casings, cooling system, steering and propshaft issues.
From that I'd say the warranty will say it isn't covered. I would be straight onto the garage to fix it though despite this as it will have been faulty when you bought it going by the amount of carbon you said was there above, and you have only bought it recently. Hopefully they'd fix it for you as its only an hour-ish in labour and £40odd in parts. Alternatively it isn't a particularly difficult job to do yourself if you can use a socket set and are capable of being careful with the injectors :)
 
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