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Old 15-04-18, 07:00 PM   #1
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Default Expert non starter

Hi everyone. New to this forum as a member but have found it useful when any issue has arisen with my Expert 1.9D non turbo DW8 engine. My troubles started in the summer when after a period of non use and standing in the heat of several sunny days, it refused to start. I finally got it going with a dash of easy start but after another period of non use it has firmly refused to start. I have replaced the battery and the stop solenoid but no change. I had a mobile mechanic come around to look at it but I was not filled with confidence when he started taking it apart. After about 15 minutes of struggling to remove the EGR he said he would have a go with easy start. There was nothing. The engine kept turning but no attempt of starting. He informed me that the cambelt had slipped and the engine was knackered. I paid him, he left and I decided that since the engine is dead, I'll have a look at it. Using a youtube video on how to change a cambelt, I was able to align the camshaft cam, fuel pump cam and the flywheel and everything was in line so I assume the cambelt has not slipped. I have tried bleeding the fuel lines but when I crack open an injector I get very little if any fuel. When turning over I can feel pulses of air coming through the exhaust. There are no nasty metallic noises coming from the engine to suggest any catastrophe. Any thoughts welcome.
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Old 15-04-18, 10:03 PM   #2
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First thing to do is to figure out why you dont have a diesel supply to the injectors. Check fuel line from tank, fuel filter, fuel cutoff, fuel pump etc..
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Old 16-04-18, 07:18 PM   #3
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Thanks for the speedy reply. There is diesel at the pump as when I press the priming knob, there is diesel coming through the return pipe. (I disconnected it to check). How much diesel should I see coming from the pipe to the injector when cranking the engine?
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Old 16-04-18, 09:23 PM   #4
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These pumps normally have an immobiliser block on them this stops the fuel flowing but you say you have changed the stop solenoid which would normally be under the block so can you confirm the immobiliser block has been removed ?
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Old 17-04-18, 10:01 AM   #5
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I have replaced the stop solenoid but have currently wired it directly to the positive terminal of the battery. I have left the old solenoid connected to the loom and earthed so the vehicle thinks its still there. What immobiliser block do I need to remove.
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Old 17-04-18, 10:06 AM   #6
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If you can get to the solenoid its already been removed i just wanted to clarify that point

No need to earth the original the ecu wont care if its there or not

Only really need to bleed it if its ran dry and if your stop solenoid is hard wired it really has nothing to stop it going i would tighten all the pipes connect solenoid to battery and give it a tow start if it goes then pump is ok if not i would suspect a faulty pump
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Old 20-04-18, 08:10 AM   #7
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Still no joy. Opened the union to the fuel injector pipe on the pump and no fuel is leaving the pump. I am now considering whether the replacement solenoid is faulty. What is supposed to happen when the solenoid is energised? I will remove it this weekend to see if it works but I don't know what to look for. Can anyone explain whether I should see any movement as I am aware that there is a rubber cover on the end. Thanks.
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Old 09-05-18, 08:19 PM   #8
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Finally got it going. Had another mechanic have a look. He felt the engine was spinning too freely and since the cambelt was ok he suggested the oil may have dropped to the bottom of the engine and was not sufficiently circulating since it was thick and black. We topped up with some fresh oil and tried starting with two batteries to give it plenty of kick. It still refused and as we didnt want a fried starter motor and it was pouring with rain we called it a day. I then tried a tow start down the drive and after three push backs up the drive it started. It clattered like a bag of spanners were lost in the engine somewhere but it kept starting first time everytime. The noise sounded as there was a problem with an injector. I changed the oil and filter (using engine flush) and still the terrible clatter continued. Today I poured some diesel injector cleaner into the tank and let it run for 40 minutes or so and it sounded better. Once I got to the point that I could rev it slightly without it clattering I would keep the revs at that point and reduce back once the clatter restarted. After a further 15 minutes or so I could rev it gently higher and no clatter. At this point I put my foot down and gave it some and there was a cloud of black soot coming out of the exhaust and the engine sounded wonderful. No clatter at all. I kept the revs up for 20 seconds or so and the smoke cleared. I have restarted it a number of times since and all seems fine. I'd like to thank all that helped and this forum for your help.
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Old 09-05-18, 08:41 PM   #9
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Finally started. Topped up with some fresh oil since it was low and thick and started with a tow. Then there was a very loud clatter fron the engine which would be worse on revving. Did an engine flush and changed the oil and filter and added some injector cleaner and let it run for 40 minutes and it seemed to get a little better. I could gently increase the revs without the clatter getting louder. At one point, once it sounded not so loud, I revved the engine hard which produced a cloud of thick black smoke and the clatter had gone. Restarted a number of times and all seems fine. Thanks to everyone (reliable406 for the tow start suggestion) for all your help.
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Old 09-05-18, 09:16 PM   #10
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The clatter was the timing advance not working they get sticky when engine is idle for a while it should be fine now
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