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Old 08-07-14, 10:33 AM   #1
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Default clutch/flywheel problem 2008 expert

Hi all

I have a serious knocking and vibration coming from my 2.0 expert van (2008).

It started yesterday and on ticking over there seems to be a loud knocking inside the gearbox housing. Once the engine revs in crease the noise and vibration disappears, although if you put the foot lightly on the clutch pedal when driving you can feel the vibrations.

I have been looking on the forum and I suspect it is a flywheel problem.

I have a few questions:

1. Is the 2008 2.0 Expert fitted with a dual mass flywheel?

2. Should the clutch and flywheel be replaced at the same time?

3. What sort of money for replacement parts and where is the best place to sort parts?

4. How big a jobs is it, and is it the sort of job that needs hydraulic car ramps?(does subframe need to be removed?)

5. If paying a mechanic what sort of price should I expect?

Any help greatly appreciated

Last edited by cowdoc; 08-07-14 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 08-07-14, 06:29 PM   #2
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Default help required

As an update to my previous post I have decided to go for the conversion clutch which I can source for 200 +VAT. I have been advised that these are more reliable especially for towing, which i do most days with my van.

Has anyone fitted the conversion and what has been there experience?

Also any tips for doing the job as I am going to have a go at it myself (local peugeot garage quoted 390+VAT for dual mass flywheel and clutch + 350+VAT for fitting

How hard can it be

If anyone has done the clutch before on an Expert could they give me some hints on the proper procedure. What do I need to strip off to remove the gearbox (does subframe need to be removed etc?).

I've had a quick look under the bonnet and I assume I can get access from the front near(passenger)side. If I remove the wheel and drive shaft what else do I need to take off to gain access?

Any help would be appreciated very very very very much, from a Peugeot Expert Clutch Removal Virgin
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Old 08-07-14, 08:19 PM   #3
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I have to do this 10 times a year so plenty experience !!

You do not HAVE to remove the box but if you do feel inclined be warned the subframe bolts tend to be very stubborn and they can end up turning in the chassis meaning you need to cut into chassis rail to weld them back in place !!

You can get the box over enough JUST to enable removal and replacement of the clutch and flywheel but its not the easiest of jobs

I do it on a ramp and it still takes 4 hours
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Old 08-07-14, 08:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reliable406 View Post
I have to do this 10 times a year so plenty experience !!

You do not HAVE to remove the box but if you do feel inclined be warned the subframe bolts tend to be very stubborn and they can end up turning in the chassis meaning you need to cut into chassis rail to weld them back in place !!

You can get the box over enough JUST to enable removal and replacement of the clutch and flywheel but its not the easiest of jobs

I do it on a ramp and it still takes 4 hours
Hi reliable406

thanks for the reply. what do you need to remove to be able to get the box over?

I will be doing this on a solid floor with jacks and axle stands. Is that possible?

also what type of clutch do you normally go for when replacing? DMF or Single Mass?
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Old 08-07-14, 09:02 PM   #5
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We refit dual masses now as they actually last longer !!

Later models are fitted with solid flywheels now from new and clutches only last 80k miles
You need to remove the passenger side shaft carefull with the brake hose !!

You need to remove the complete gearbox mounting the alloy part AND the metal bit on the body and I also remove the gear selector from the box although it can be done without removing that it just makes life easier.

Make sure you get ALL the bellhousing bolts 7 in total some are a challenge to get at

Everything else is just as you would for any clutch removal
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Old 08-07-14, 09:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reliable406 View Post
We refit dual masses now as they actually last longer !!

Later models are fitted with solid flywheels now from new and clutches only last 80k miles
You need to remove the passenger side shaft carefull with the brake hose !!

You need to remove the complete gearbox mounting the alloy part AND the metal bit on the body and I also remove the gear selector from the box although it can be done without removing that it just makes life easier.

Make sure you get ALL the bellhousing bolts 7 in total some are a challenge to get at

Everything else is just as you would for any clutch removal

thanks for the info, i will give it a go tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

i am going to go for the solid mass flywheel. i only have 73k on my expert and the DMF seems to have gone so will try the other.

I do a lot of towing - you think this should make a difference as regards preference of flywheel?
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Old 08-07-14, 09:20 PM   #7
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If you do a lot of towing it will put more strain on the clutch so it will wear it quicker with the solid flywheel.

The dual mass flywheel is a good thing in my opinion as it is designed to reduce strain on the gearbox and it does work in my experience we only ever had gearbox problems with solid flywheels !! never had many BUT it only happened with solid flywheel taxis.

Having said that I do a lot of towing myself and the extra load of towing is going to wear a dual mass flywheel quicker I use autos for towing so cannot comment on longevity it is only my opinion.
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Old 09-07-14, 07:54 PM   #8
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Default gear selector

Hi all,

attempting to replace the clutch assembly on my expert van this evening and have got as far as removing hub etc but am having problems removing the gear selector.

I have removed 3 bolts from the top of the selector but nothing wants to move much. I don't want to try and force it too much incase i do any damage. Anyone know how to get the selector off? Also how do you remove the selector cables from their mountings? I have tried turning the plastic bits that hold the cables onto their mountings but doesn't seem to slacken much.

If I can get past this point I'm hoping it will be fairly straight forward removing the gearbox mountings and the 7 bolts connecting the bell housing.

Anything else i should look out for?

Appreciate any help
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Old 10-07-14, 08:38 PM   #9
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Hi, I got some advice the other day on changing the clutch on an expert van. I hope you can help me a bit more.
I have moved the gearbox over and have the clutch removed , but I'm having problems getting at the 8 torx bolts holding the dual mass flywheel on. The holes in the inner plate do not quite match up with the torx bolts. I can get on and slacken the bolts a bit but as the holes do not line up exactly I cannot remove the bolts.
I have tried knocking the inner plate around a bit but when going anticlockwise(which is the nearest to the holes lining up) it seems to hit something metalic and will not go any further. When I try turning the inner plate clockwise the torx bolt heads are then completely covered up.
I have thought og gringing off thr lip which seems to hold the inner disc in place , but am wondering if this will release the inner disc so I can access the torx bolts.
I appreciate the advice you have already given and hope you can help with this problem.
I only have a couple of hours each evening to work at this and would like to get it finished by the weekend.
many thanks for your help so far
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Old 17-07-14, 03:20 PM   #10
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This is a common problem with dmfs. I have had to do exactly as you said and grind off the 'windows'. that was on a golf however where I had the box right out. Access is your biggest problem. Try levering against the head of the bolt and the flywheel window to see if you can move it. Alternatively try a long chisel and a large hammer and hit very hard! (worked for me recently on a transit with this problem)
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