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Old 24-12-16, 09:30 AM   #1
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Default 2007 Expert Heater Fan Resistor Location

Hello folks and Happy Christmas.
Sorry that my first posting is a request for assistance;

Last summer I bought a low mileage 2007 1.6 Expert Non Aircon, just a base model.
Heater blower now works on 4 only, but isn't stuck on, as some owners seem to experience.

Fan speed switch is a rotary 0-4 rather than a slider.

I've had a good search around this and other forums, but can't find a pointer to the resistor location for this model spec, and don't really want to strip the whole dashboard in search for it on Christmas Eve.

Only things I've needed to mend so far are Glove box falling out, remote keyfob switches falling out, and various lighting earths.

Last eight digits of VIN are 64061568

Many Thanks in anticipation
Bill

Last edited by peak4; 24-12-16 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 25-01-17, 07:32 PM   #2
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Default Anyone Know 2007 Expert Heater Fan Resistor Location

Just giving this post a bump as it's dropped off to the second page, and I still need to try mending the infernal thing.

Many Thanks
Bill
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Old 26-01-17, 12:16 PM   #3
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Default Found it

Since no-one seems to know, I started investigating further.
Pulled out the glovebox and it's just to the right of the heater motor.
4 wire circuit on a 5 wire plug with pin No.5 well burnt.

New plugs available from Peugeot, but only complete with wiring harness at vast expense.
However,thanks to a Fiat forum, it seems that it's the same heater resistor as used in a Vauxhall Corsa D 2006-2016.
Vauxhall do a repair kit for about 30, but also available next day delivery on ebay for 11.99.
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Old 27-01-17, 01:27 PM   #4
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Thumbs up Job Done

Final update, ebay plug arrived this morning, albeit with plain black wiring.
Some of the wires (Pins 1 + 2)were slightly thinner than OE spec, but all 5 pins wired out.
On my van there's only 4 wires in the originalharness plug, pin 4 being vacant. However pins 4 & 5 on the resistor itself are commoned together on the resistor side of the plastic mount; it's the same physical piece of metal, just splitting into two presentations on the plug side..
I therefor joined wires 4 & 5 of my new plug's wiring together, so that the plug/socket pins 4/5 will share the load, hopefully preventing future overheating of the connector.

Sorry no photos, it's too cold out there at the moment.
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Old 13-02-17, 08:20 AM   #5
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Hi there, thanks so much for the helpful writeup, I am just about to tackle my heater problem, it seems similar to yours. My heater (rotary) worked intermittently except for the top setting that blasts the windscreen. It is so intermittent now that it might not work again! I am completely clueless when it comes to electrics, but had thought it might be a connection in the switch as it seemed unlikely to be the fan as it works fine flat out. My glovebox is also falling out so any help with that would also be useful..
What do I look for, and how would I search for the replacement on eBay?
Thanks again
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Old 13-02-17, 09:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollercoast View Post
Hi there, thanks so much for the helpful writeup, I am just about to tackle my heater problem, it seems similar to yours. My heater (rotary) worked intermittently except for the top setting that blasts the windscreen. It is so intermittent now that it might not work again! I am completely clueless when it comes to electrics, but had thought it might be a connection in the switch as it seemed unlikely to be the fan as it works fine flat out. My glovebox is also falling out so any help with that would also be useful..
What do I look for, and how would I search for the replacement on eBay?
Thanks again
All I did was to search for "Vauxhall Corsa D 2006-2016 heater", where you will see both plugs and resistors, many with next day delivery. My resistor was the green one, though I didn't replace it; just cleaned up the tags and doubled the wiring (see later info).

Make sure you take the glove box out first and ensure that your plug and resistor look like the Vauxhall ones on display there.
It's not just the actual glove box that I took out, rather the whole panel that it's attached to, complete with glove box.

First pull out the little cubby box between the glove box and the door; that will allow you to observe the plug for the glove box light. The wiring's quite short so make sure you don't rip it out when you remove the larger panel.

Second there's a small quarter panel, up near to where the mirror would be if the door was closed. You need that off to get to one of the screws, along with a stubby No2 Pozidrive, or small ratchet and bit. The panel's tricky to get out, but an old credit card will assist.

I think, if memory serves correctly, there are 5 screws in total. The aforementioned one up by the mirror, one each, top left and right in the glove box, one bottom right, also inside, plus the final one bottom left under a little cover.

Then it's lots of pulling and tugging, trying not to shear too many of the plastic retaining clips.
It was -4 when I did it so the plastic was quite brittle. There might be benefit in running the engine & heater for a while after you've removed all the fixings to make the plastic more pliable.

It felt like it took a lot of pulling the first time, as there are two larger 1/2" square plastic clips which engage in the scuttle panel cross rail; I thought I'd missed a couple of screw at first.

Once the panel's free, don't forget the wiring to the glove box light, you will see the resistor and plug installed into the heater duct. Remove the plug, then the hex headed screw (5.5mm AF??) and slide the resistor to the right before removing it.
Inspect the damage and order parts for next day delivery as required.

As mentioned in previous post, my van used 4 wires, the replacement plug had 5 available, but two of the resistor pins were commoned, so I paired the wires together to share the load.

I used crimp on sleeves to splice in the new plug, but soldering & heat shrink might be better.
Since my replacement plug had plain black wiring, I also tie wrapped the old one in place under the glove box, in case the next person to repeat the job forgets to engage brain and chops off the plug before noting the plain wiring.

It's a similar style of plug to the one which caused me a problem with the rear light wiring. They're just not up to the job when everything gets a bit corroded. Cheap tin plated contacts going onto pressed tinplate "wiring" on the light unit.

Also, you said your glove box was falling out, if you mean the hinges are knackered, so were mine when I bought the van.
A length of "piano hinge" and a few self tappers effected a decent quality repair.

Good luck.
Bill

Last edited by peak4; 13-02-17 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 21-02-17, 07:06 PM   #7
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Well it has been getting less intermittent and more like not working at all so I bit the bullet and got into it this morning.

A long look... and starting to remove screws etc...
pretty soon I could see that someone had been at it before me!
I could see a bit of broken plastic to glue back together and an overheated terminal.
All this without removing the glove box.
It seemed a bit overkill to take it off so I did it all from the underneath, with a bit of peering through the removed cubby place left of glovebox.

My problem is just the resistance in the terminal at the moment.
I cleaned them up and put it back together and it works fine.
Not for long though probably.
Needs a better solution.

For anyone following, it was possible to remove the resistor with the glove box in.
I did cut off a little redundant plastic that was in the way and had no use in my case.

I would like a way to connect directly without that connecting plug.

And for now does anyone have an idea how to improve the connection.
Is there something I can add to aid conduction like a copper paste?

Otherwise it means repeating the job over and over again.
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Old 21-02-17, 09:46 PM   #8
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Default 2007 Expert Heater Fan Resistor Location

Don't hard wire the connection direct. I did this to a 206 a while back. Dependant on the connection setup if direct you only have off or full on. This is bad as if you circumvent the resistor you will have way to much current running through the wire and then a possible fire risk. The wire used to heat up on mine. The resistor while regulating the voltage also limits the current as well as dissipating the heat the current causes. That is why the resister is situated in the air duct.


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Old 22-02-17, 10:41 AM   #9
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Yes no worries,
to be clear I am not thinking of bypassing anything at all.
Just connecting better to the right places without the bit of "connector" that always seems to become a problem.
It seems to start to create a resistance and then overheat, creating more resistance and become no longer connected.
My question was first is there a connection enhancement like a paste or liquid that I could add, or failing that perhaps solder the junction instead.
It might seem like an effort to go to, but the standard way is obviously unreliable and is melting wires.
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Old 25-02-17, 06:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollercoast View Post
Yes no worries,
to be clear I am not thinking of bypassing anything at all.
Just connecting better to the right places without the bit of "connector" that always seems to become a problem.
It seems to start to create a resistance and then overheat, creating more resistance and become no longer connected.
My question was first is there a connection enhancement like a paste or liquid that I could add, or failing that perhaps solder the junction instead.
It might seem like an effort to go to, but the standard way is obviously unreliable and is melting wires.
How many wires were in your plug, 4 or 5?
From what I can gather, it's normally wire/pin No.5 that overheats, hence by joining 4 & 5 together to share the load.
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