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Old 22-11-16, 01:53 PM   #1
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Default 5008 RNEG speaker updates

Now that I have owned the car for exactly a year, I have decided that I cannot have a few more years of ownership with a poorly sounding stereo.
I am doing all the speakers, and perhaps at some point I may put the two SONY amps that have been sitting in the garage for a few years another use.
The plan:

Front speakers update to 6.5" Infinity Reference 6530CS (components) or similar. Having pulled the door card off, I was shocked to find a very flimsy paper cone speaker in there. Does anyone know the polarity of the orange and blue wires going to the "woofer"? How do I tap into the dash mounted tweeter circuit without disassembling the dash? Or do I actually have to disassemble the dash to swap tweeters, or can they be extracted from the top once the "grill" has been removed?

Rear speakers: these are 5.25" (130mm) I believe. I have a pair of Alpine components with a built in cross-over that I used many years ago. These can handle a lot of power and are of good quality.

Bass. Well, I have been eyeing up a JBL OEM subwoofer - they are like rocking horse sh.. but if I do manage to find out, I hope I can have it packaged without compromising boot space. One of those SONY amps can drive that in mono bridged mode. And the front Infinity References can be driven by the other Amp in stereo.

Whether I opt for amps really depends on how the Becker RNEG HU can handle the proper speakers. Still need to find a solution to music source for the sub amp. My amp can take speaker level input though. I know RNEG does not have any line out, which is a shame.

Any thoughts, opinions or past experience is very much welcome!
Particularly with regards to wiring up the tweeters - do any of the tweeter wires actually make it to the door, or do I have to be routing cables from the dash to the door (where the cross over will be placed). Also how do I remove and replace tweeters in the 5008? And also has anyone retro-fitted the JBL sub?
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Old 09-12-16, 07:29 PM   #2
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No responses yet, but I courageously push on with this with absolutely no technical details available off the internet.
So made head unit removal tool myself, out of an expired credit card, works a treat!
The speaker wires coming out of the back of the unit are quite flimsy. Strangely they are much thicker wires at the speakers themselves, so somewhere along the way they increase gauge.
Did a check on the front door speaker OEM wiring frequency carrying capacity, and it does carry the full frequency spectrum as connecting an old Alpine component speaker with a crossover shows both bass to the woofer and tweeter has plenty of high frequencies too. So the vehicle does not have a cross over in it as such.
I did manage to remove the front tweeter. It had to be disconnected as I don't want the poor tweeter muddling up the new silk dome piece of beauty and definition from Alpine. The tweeter grill DOES lift up, just need a tweezer and a Stanley knife and it will come up. New tweeter is in place, new Alpine woofer is in place. I had to fabricate a 4mm spacer ring as the Alpine woofer was too deep, and was touching the plastic shield behind it. These rings can be bought off the shelf, but I could not be asked to wait for delivery.
Cross over has been tucked in the dash, above the fuse box. So the left side is done. Tomorrow if I get a spare hour or two will do the right side too. I think i know where the amp will be placed, it should fit in the under floor storage well. I'll have to monitor its performance with regards to no real ventilation down there, might be an issue. I will sort something out if that's an issue, custom ducting with a computer fan will do the job. I will be posting some photos when the project is complete.
I must just add the factory woofer is a super light weight flimsy paper one. And the old tweeter is the worst tweeter I have ever held in my hands. I am keeping all the original speaker wiring in place so one day when I come to sell the car I can return it all to factory spec, whilst I will probably leave behind the aftermarket wiring to save me from disassembling it all again and pulling wires, it will all be hidden anyway. The amp I have (Alpine MRV-F307, 4 channel) accepts speaker level inputs, so I am feeding from speaker level output from the HU straight into the amplifier, the loom coming down the centre console. From there 4 speaker cables (shielded to help prevent picking up EMF, cable spec is QED 16 gauge) branch out to the four corners of the vehicle. At the back I have 5.25" Infinity (Reference 5002IX) coaxial units with tweeter attenuator built-in allowing +0 or -6dB high frequency choice at the press of a button, these should fit in straight, with no spacer ring required and due to no cross over the wiring is simpler. At the front I have Alpine 6.5" (SPG-17CS) with separate cross over unit. The x-over allows variable attenuation of high frequencies, +0, -6dB, +6dB. Given the high position of the tweeter the sound staging should be good without extra high frequency boost, so I left it at 0dB. The amp to cross-over cable is fed from the amp the shortest possible route to the cross over under the dash (I am using the plastic trim on the door sill), whence a separate cable goes up to the tweeter, and a separate one goes through the factory original A pillar to door conduit (feeding through there was tricky, but I got the knack). This amp has an RCA stereo output too, so I do not need a separate set of cables from the HU to the 2nd amp, and that will feed into a 2 channel bridgeable Sony amp (150W when bridged) which will sit in the RHS under floor storage compartment - daisy chaining like this really makes sense from the simplicity of installation. This will power an 8" subwoofer, in a custom 5 litre enclosure that I already have, though plan to build another bigger one. Eventually I will make a new enclosure that will sit on the floor between the two under floor storage openings, will be down firing, and carpeted. Kids stepping onto it won't be an issue as it will be like a stool, strong and sturdy. It will also have quick disconnect terminals and extra long cable, so I can either completely remove, or just move to the boot as and when space requirements dictate. Might even go a step further and have speaker terminals permanently wired into the boot (close to the 12V outlet for example in the boot) and one at the back of the central console. That way I can unplug and move the sub easily without the clutter of cables. Kids and cables don't mix. I'll be posting some photos in due course.

Last edited by oh_superb; 09-12-16 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 10-12-16, 06:00 PM   #3
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Any suggestions for the location of pulling the power cable through the bulk head from the car battery? Is there a readily / easily accessible grommet somewhere?
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Old 12-12-16, 06:57 PM   #4
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After spending some considerable time fishing for a suitable place to route the power feed to the amplifier, I am none the wiser. This is probably the worst vehicle for that, due to the overhanging windscreen over the engine etc.
Anyone know how to remove the glovebox? There must be some hidden screws. I took 3 torx screws out but there seems to be something else holding it in place. If I could take it out, I suspect that behind it I'll be able to see the firewall and locate a suitable routing location. Failing that, at the top of the passenger footwell there is a grommet feeding the bonnet release cable. THat is my only option at present, unless someone can assist me with the so-called glovebox removal!
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Old 12-12-16, 07:07 PM   #5
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A few photos showing progress.
You can see the Alpine component speaker system at the front. Tweeter fitted above the original tweeter mesh, with the original tweeter removed. I might change this to a flush install, the speaker kit comes with that facility also, but I will leave it as it is for the time being. The woofer is a 6.5" Alpine unit as part of SPG-17CS kit. I used a 4mm spacer ring out of MDF, as this speaker has a big heavy magnet. I bought a bag of plastic trim clips as in these cold temperatures plastic is quite brittle and most clips tend to break on removing the door card. The speakers are fed with new 16 gauge wiring. The OEM original wiring is left in place untouched. Once the door card is on, everything looks as original. In the summer I will probably remove the door cards again, and fit some sound deadening. Too cold for that now.
Attached Thumbnails
img_7886.jpg   img_7884.jpg   img_7881.jpg  

Last edited by oh_superb; 12-12-16 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 12-12-16, 08:46 PM   #6
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Good work!
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Old 13-12-16, 08:09 AM   #7
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Thanks, I'm getting there, slowly! I think I will leave the rear speaker install until the weather improves post New Year, but finishing off the front definitely (that's more important anyway) this week and probably just with my old Sony amp, as a temporary solution. Just waiting for some heat shrink to arrive through the Xmas post… it's been a week since I ordered them. Oh yes, and some extra speaker cable too.
Then complete the job when it warms up and days get longer… I might also rip the door cards off again then, and install some sound insulation on all the 4 doors. I drove around for a few days without the passenger door card fitted, and goodness me was I surprised how much road noise was coming through that door! So the door card does a lot of deadening, simple enough as it is, and cheap. Some extra sound deadening is bound to be noticeable.
I can't wait to hear it working! I bet it will be a massive improvement. It always is. The only car I didn't bother with upgrading the sound system was the old Skoda Superb (MK1). Stock system was good. Only made even better with a Clarion double DIN sat nav system that had MOSFET amps built in and that was absolutely enough to bring the speakers alive in a tasty kind of way without distortion. But in my experience, Nissan (perhaps Mrs' Qashqai is an exception, as it's actually OK stock), Peugeot, Renault, horrible cheap stock stereos.
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Last edited by oh_superb; 13-12-16 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 14-12-16, 04:36 PM   #8
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Job done, two channel Sony amp connected via a speaker level to RCA cheap converter, and cheap cable. The cable is a brand new one and a disappointment, as it has a contact problem. I should have used my old one that my gut instinct was telling me to use.
Never mind. As I said this is a temporary solution, as ultimately I am switching to a 4 channel Alpine amp with speaker level inputs, so the RCA cable will be pulled out anyway. The new wiring is neat, I did have to pull the two seats out though to tuck the cable under the carpet where it overlaps under the seats. There is a good ground point behind a 10 mm nut under the centre console, accessible through the little removable inspection hatch. You can just about see it if you enter the vehicle via the rear left door, and look down the left side of the centre console at floor level just 4-5 inches from the back to the front.
The results are good. Even at very high volume (much higher than I would want to sustain) there is absolutely no distortion, and the tone level had to go down from Bass +5 and Treble +4 to +0 and +0 for similar levels of bass, but much higher clarity. IN addition to a punchier and easier bass, the treble is the key improvement, it is just so clean and crisp, it's beautiful. I look forward to finishing this project, but this stage 1 is perfectly good enough for the time being offering vast improvement to sound quality, especially considering the Sony amp has not been turned on since November 2009! But, it's a Sony (proper one made in Japan). It's quite compact and fits under the passenger seat quite neatly. More photos to follow.
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Old 19-12-16, 07:00 PM   #9
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Just a quick update, the system is brilliant, I love it. I have also wired up a second SONY amp and running that in bridge mode, I think it is only rated at 120W in mono, peak 250W, and this is just fine for that tiny 8" Pioneer TSw841D subwoofer in a 5 litre enclosure. This is velcroed in the boot.
The head unit is running Jazz EQ with loudness enabled but bass and treble both at zero, and it's just beautiful, it's now like driving a premium car.
In the spring, I will also update the rear door speakers, have that pair of Infinity Harman Kardon speakers sitting in the garage now, and put in an 8 wire loom to drive all 4 speakers at speaker level into the 4 channel Alpine amp, which I will place in the boot on the side, with a neat tucked away wiring solution. I am not too keen on an amp under the passenger seat and another amp under the middle seat of the back row, but it will do for now!
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Old 14-01-17, 03:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh_superb View Post
Just a quick update, the system is brilliant, I love it. I have also wired up a second SONY amp and running that in bridge mode, I think it is only rated at 120W in mono, peak 250W, and this is just fine for that tiny 8" Pioneer TSw841D subwoofer in a 5 litre enclosure. This is velcroed in the boot.
The head unit is running Jazz EQ with loudness enabled but bass and treble both at zero, and it's just beautiful, it's now like driving a premium car.
In the spring, I will also update the rear door speakers, have that pair of Infinity Harman Kardon speakers sitting in the garage now, and put in an 8 wire loom to drive all 4 speakers at speaker level into the 4 channel Alpine amp, which I will place in the boot on the side, with a neat tucked away wiring solution. I am not too keen on an amp under the passenger seat and another amp under the middle seat of the back row, but it will do for now!
Hi. Very pleased I stumbled across your post. I have a 61 reg 5008 and I'm just about to start working out how to replace the head unit and speakers.

Hopefully your posts above will make the exercise a whole heap easier now but I might fire over a couple of questions if that's OK?

Cheers,
Jez

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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