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Old 04-07-18, 11:53 AM   #1
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Default 2.2HDi problems

Hi,
I have an 807 2.2HDi and having issues with it, mainly having a lack of power. My mpg is down, it has slow acceleration which can be a little nerving when joining roundabouts, and at junctions. I also need to drop down the gears to get up hills, sometimes having to drop to 2nd gear. there appears to be no real power till the revs hit 2500rpm or more.
Am I expecting too much from this car, I thought it should a bit power with the size engione in it and be able to handle hills fairly well, especially when its empty.

Faults I have found and tried to rectify are fuel cap sensor faulty, so have replaced with a manual switch which simulate the fuel cap sensor.

Replaced the DPF with a new one.

Repaired the swirlflap actuator which was broken, which left the swirlflap lever in the down position.

EGR has been blanked off before I purchased the car so dont believe the EGR to be an issue.

I have run PP200 and checked for faults and nothing shows up pointing to anything.

Any suggestions where I could look next? I am getting a little annoyed with it, dont really want to sell it but dont want to spend a great deal more on it either.
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Old 04-07-18, 06:27 PM   #2
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How did you wire switch, it is not a simple on/off it is a change in resistance (so ecu can detect faults)

How does it run with MAF disconnected, when you did the swirl flap did you check diaphragm is intact and lastly have you checked turbo solenoid (you can swap it with the unused EGR one)
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Old 04-07-18, 06:52 PM   #3
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2.2 is no slowcoach when working right check ALL the vacuum pipework a leak at 1 solenoid/pipe will affect the whole system.

As above switch is no good for fuel cap sensor its a reed switch controlled by the magnets so it has resistance open or closed.

Swirl flaps are fine left open wont affect power to any great extent.
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Old 04-07-18, 07:14 PM   #4
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Could also be that the variable vane system in the turbo is sticky due to carbon buildup. My 2.2 had this issue [among others]. You will have to remove the turbo to check/fix this though. Make sure the vacuum actuator is working as well.
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Old 04-07-18, 09:06 PM   #5
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I wired the switch up to be switchable between 15ohms and 150kohms, and then mounted the switch on the filler pipe in the wheel arch. I checked in pp2000 that it could see it and showed filler cap present/absent when I switch it.

I replaced the MAF sensor with another as I stupidly stuck my finger in my old one, haven't checked the new though. If it is this will I loose more power again?

When I had the swirl flap actuator off, I pulled out or pushed in the arm and out my finger over the vacuum inlet and the it held in place, thought this was a good test but not sure how strong the vacuum is.

I will check all the vac lines and solenoids tomorrow see if I find anything. I hope it's not anything at the back of the engine because it's a nightmare to get to.
If I want to get to the actuator on the turbo, can I access it from the bottom with out removing g the turbo?
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Old 05-07-18, 10:50 AM   #6
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Today I have disconnected the MAF, an anti pollution fault came up and I had less power than before, so im assuming the MAF is working.

I disconnected the vac line to the Swirl flap accurator and blocked it off with no improvement either.

I have swapped the EGR and Turbo solonoids around and it made no difference. However I did notice the breather pipe on the bottom of the EGR solonoid was not fitted correctly so Im not convinced it was working to begin with, maybe someone had previously swapped them over, not sure how I can prove they are working at the moment.

I have ordered a vacuum gauge so I can test the lines out which will be here tomorrow.
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Old 06-07-18, 01:40 PM   #7
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Vacuum gauge turned up today, and I conducted a few tests on the system.
I checked the lines that the solinoids control for leaks, all held their vauums.
I checked the swirl flap actuator and that also held its vacuum.
I then disconencted the vacuum line that supplies the turbo solinoid and connected the gauge to it. I started the engine and I had a constistant vacuum. Im not sure if this a fool proof test or not, but I think the vacuum system is intact.

Not really sure now what way to go with it. I can hear the turbo starting to whistle down at 1500 rpm or so, but there is just no power with it.
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Old 06-07-18, 03:31 PM   #8
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If the vacuum system is all working which from your description apears to be the case then the only other thing could be a sticky actuator on the turbo meaning although the turbo is trying to boost the vanes are not moving to allow the boost to build properly.

You might be able to use your vac gauge to test boost levels depends on type of gauge
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Old 07-07-18, 08:24 AM   #9
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The vac gauge I have is the Sealey VS402 Vacuum Tester & Brake Bleeding Kit , not sure if Im able to use to check the boost levels, but im guessing probably not.

If it is a sticky turbo actuator that means I have to remove the turbo? Is that a big job, any pointers or advice how to remove it?
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Old 07-07-18, 08:59 AM   #10
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Lets put it this way you dont want to have to remove the turbo !!!

Get a boost gauge and plumb it in first to be sure as removing the turbo on these is no fun even less fun if it turns out to be ok !!
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