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Old 01-12-15, 05:33 PM   #1
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Unhappy Peugeot 407 2.0 HDi 2005 RHR extreme hiccups while regenerating

Hello good people, hope that you can help me, before I go with pricey option of licensed dealer and service.

I bought recently pretty decent and in great condition 407 with only 150.000km on the clock (confirmed by dealership). its 100KW version

Symptoms: every 450-500km car starts jerking extremely while driving, so holding gas pedal on constant it will start slowing down easily for 2 or 3 seconds and then extreme kick forward, lucily I drove I bunch of mailfunctiong cars during my lifetime so I can handle it but I think undividable is the term when it comes how it is behaving . (I noticed it has fan ruining intermittent white smoke and increased fuel consumption). No errors on the dash, no beeping no nothing, no engine management light. After couple of turn on turn off it resets and car runs like a charm. Also idle is moving around a bit for 100RPM up and down.


So far it happened twice during driving in the city, so I wasnt able to run it in 4th gear for a while so I just tried keeping revs around 3k. Last time I was on the open road and drove it like that for 20km and until I powered it on and off couple of times it seemed like it didn’t planed on going away.

Previous time right after the jerking I it got hooked on lexia and it didn’t show anything.

I have been googling this error for about a month now and can’t find anything conclusive, 2 people seemed to resolve the issue by finding broke vacuum pipes, I'll have them respected and replaced probably since it is the best guess. And it showed error about misfire in 5th cylinder I'll recheck I think it was P1351 I'll probably replace heaters that have been told to me (I was using ELM not lexia).

I am currently working on getting my laptop operational and getting car laptop charger and deep diving into diagnostics with it while it is happening.


If anyone has any idea or advice, or have had similar issue please share and save my love toward pugs

Thank you
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Last edited by neecola; 01-12-15 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 01-12-15, 05:39 PM   #2
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I once had something similar.

I found out that it seemed that the IC bypass throttle switching failed, probably due to one failed electrovalve? (two valves, one for each throttle).

I didn't bother to buy a new valve, but I did put a small ball-bearing ball into both of the rubber pipe pieces that goes into each of the two throttle actuators (to block the vacum/air supply to the actuators).

This way the IC bypass was deactivated and the car was driveable again. It still regenerates fine even though the air always pass through the IC.

The symptoms before the fix was that only full throttle would keep the car alive, any part-throttle it would completly die, probably as both throttles was closed at the same time.

Hope your fault is something as easy to fix as mine
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Old 01-12-15, 05:59 PM   #3
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Thanks for the fast response! How did you diagnose that, was it showing something on diagnostics, and it was happening during regeneration?

Thank you very much
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Old 01-12-15, 08:03 PM   #4
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It was just logical thinking, engine completely died without any sign of error codes in PP2000..

At least that somehow ruled out sensor fault etc. and I started thinking if the engine could be strangled for air... and first thing I tried was blocking those vacum hoses.

Yes, it was only happening during regeneration.
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Old 01-12-15, 08:24 PM   #5
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Your words bring me hope! So far everything and everybody is pointing out to that I ll see to reinspect those hoses! Thank you very much sir!
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Old 20-02-16, 11:23 PM   #6
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Jesus, explaining this to mechanic is nearly impossible (I had one guy wanting to open the engine to diagnose, and clean the injectors, and on my question why it happens on such regular intervals he said, then there is something wrong ) And I Hate it since I do not have the time to fiddle with this. It wasn't so bad in past times since I had a lot of highway driving so it would only jerk for lets say 30 sec.

Now today it happened. I stopped and pulled off bottom vacuum pipe (btw when I finally got a mechanic that would take a look that vacuum hose was really lose so we fixed that but problem is still there) and it was worse more jerking. Now I reconnected bottom disconnected top one (not sure which is cold which is hot air) (hear something like vacuum gurgle) and it ran fine no jerking, but I noticed that I have less boost over 2500RPM like the car lost most of it power over those revs. I drove it a bit like that returned the pipe and car was running as it should again (since the regen finished).
Not sure if this makes any diagnostic sense, I am still trying to understand when is which opened and when it should be and I want to fix it and it seems that only way to do it is by my self.

Last edited by neecola; 20-02-16 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 21-02-16, 03:36 AM   #7
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When you take off the vacuum pipe you need to stop it leaking as this will reduce the vacuum to everything else including turbo
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Old 21-02-16, 11:07 AM   #8
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Yes you certainly need to block the hoses when you disconnect them. I used a suitable sized ballbearing ball into each of the hose-ends before I put them back in place onto the actuators, so everything still looks like it is connected and operating.

Leaving a hose-end loose and unconnected will reduce vacum in the system and this will influence on the turbo control also.
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Old 21-02-16, 11:48 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1ack__Mi16 View Post
Yes you certainly need to block the hoses when you disconnect them. I used a suitable sized ballbearing ball into each of the hose-ends before I put them back in place onto the actuators, so everything still looks like it is connected and operating.

Leaving a hose-end loose and unconnected will reduce vacum in the system and this will influence on the turbo control also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by trustme View Post
When you take off the vacuum pipe you need to stop it leaking as this will reduce the vacuum to everything else including turbo
ou that makes sense, and explains the vacuum sound and no boost so just to clip it when its taken off and that will do (which is what B1ack__Mi16 already suggested). I want to get this fixed so bad. hm do you folks know for any dangers for running with those pipes closed since


So I typed this message up to here and took off, couldn't sit since rain stopped, so parking lot mechanizing started.

I took of both hoses from the top, visual inspection nothing took a straw and tried to blow/suck (that came out wrong) top one good, bottom one hissing like crazy. But no way to see where i tried covering whole hose with my hand to see if the hissing change the sound but no luck. I saw somewhere that that can be inspected by smoke, and I hate cigarettes but fuck it, blow smoke into that hose and found it. small bottom hose, check the straw


you lil motherfucker









Only thing that is working on Sunday and that is selling hoses is open market so I went thru it with a straw that fits perfectly to find the right size pipe.

I hope this silicone gasoline pipe will do the job and hope that this will close the subject

PS Peugeot 407 2,0 HDI trza!? (Strana 2) / Peugeot / Citroen dijagnostika / elprog forum post #28 this seems to be known issue on them

Thank you folks again

Last edited by neecola; 17-10-16 at 08:46 AM. Reason: updated photos
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Old 21-02-16, 04:50 PM   #10
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Default similar problem!!

Think this is my problem too; my 407 2005 2 litre auto saloon, 139K, becomes v shaky with extreme loss of power and inability to hold revs every now and again - no predicting it & no way of reproducing it; maybe it is a FAP regen thing??

But I don't think my engine is the same as the one in these photos; any further hints please? No faults on screen -ever- no faults on 3 reads at Peugeot [=300 thank you very much]

As I say i think i'd .,ike to try blocking this sensor pipe, but where the $%^ is it??!!

thanks in advance for any comments!
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