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Old 19-07-18, 05:24 PM   #1
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Default Crankshaft timing sensor fault?

4 years ago my 2007 407 2.2Hdi SW cut out having travelled about 1/4 mile down the road. The AA came, read the fault (P0336), cleaned the crankshaft timing sensor and I had no further problems for nearly 4 years.

About three months ago the car started stuttering occasionally, maybe once or twice a week, often only within the first mile or so of a journey. It felt like it might be a fuel supply issue, but as it was otherwise running ok I was just going to mention it at the next service in September.

A week last Monday evening I was on a fifteen minute drive home. The car stuttered a few times in the first 1/4 mile and then cut out completely, coasting to a standstill. Engine wouldn't turn over on the first 4 or 5 times of trying. After about ten minutes it started a couple of times very briefly, for no more than 5/6 seconds each. After about an hour it started for about 30 seconds. After about 3 hours it started again, but seemed to nearly cut out every 30 seconds or so.

AA read the faults - P0336 again and trailered me home.

Last Friday it started ok and I drove half mile to the garage. Had the crankshaft timing sensor changed completely and since then the stuttering seems to have disappeared. Problem is, it cut out again after a 20minute drive home this afternoon, luckily just as I was pulling onto the drive. Won't turn over again yet. I read the codes with PP myself, and the 2 relevant ones seem to be the "crank speed sensor" again, and a new one "clutch switch signal - no signal or signal not coherent"

Has anyone got any ideas how to interpret these issues?

Thanks

Also, why doesn't PP report the actual OBD fault code numbers. It even reports a different description of the fault so it's not alway obvious which fault it's referring to, which is exasperating.
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Old 19-07-18, 08:05 PM   #2
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I am busy working on exactly the same fault on my brother's car right now. He had the same symptoms, only fault code was P0336 diagnosed with Diagbox, so replaced the crank sensor. However his car would still not start. Diagbox live data showed there was no cam/crank sync. It also still displayed P0336 fault code despite having the new genuine crank sensor installed. Key is being recognised [beep test] and Diagbox shows this too.

I then took his cam and crank sensors home with me [120kms away] and tried them in my own 407. Both worked with no fault codes. I am heading back today with my 407 and am going to go on a swap fest. One thing I am going to swap is the crank sensor ring [behind the crank pulley] as this is what will trigger the crank speed signal.

If I dont find anything by swapping bits over [ecu/bsi/key etc], I will then have to go through the wiring for possible breaks [nothing visual right now] and check power supply to the ecu and bsi. Have also checked all fuses and also had a good look at the engine fuse box and all plugs to the ecu and bsi for water/corrosion, nothing obvious. Also have removed, cleaned and replaced all ground points. Battery is 100% and car cranks well over the required speed.

Will advise later of any success.
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Old 21-07-18, 08:15 PM   #3
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After a very frustrating couple of days I have come to the conclusion that there is a wiring issue buried somewhere.

Sequence of events..

Ran both cam and crank sensors from brother's car in mine in 120kms trip to brother's place. Ran perfectly. Swapped both sets back into brother's car, no start. Checked wiring for continuity to crank sensor- no problem.

Swapped crank sensor rings. Brother's starts and runs my car, mine does not start his.

Swapped out ecu/bsi/key/cluster from my car to his. Cranked it, did not seem to want to fire then suddenly coughed and started... so maybe faulty ecu/bsi/key/cluster?

Swapped his ecu/bsi/key/cluster into mine. Started with no hesitation and ran well. So obviously not the problem.

Put his ecu/bsi/key/cluster back into his car. It started first crank and ran well. Stopped and started the car at least a dozen times, no issues. Decided that it must have been a bad plug contact despite all plugs and wires looking brand new to these components. Then loctited/torqued his crank pulley back on leaving my sensor ring on his car. Went to start the car and nothing again. No indication of wanting to start. No cam crank sync again. Only fault displayed again on Diagbox is P0336.

Then thought it might be a main relay/supply issue so swapped out both the engine bay fuse box and the ignition switches. Mine in his did not make any difference, his in mine started and ran perfectly. Still no cam/crank sync and P0336.

Since then I have been unable to get his to start again despite re-swapping units around, unplugging and plugging wires in, inspecting wiring etc.

I am going to trailer his car to my place where I can carefully go through the wiring at my leisure and see where I am getting power etc as it would appear to be a supply issue of sorts. Who knows. ffffffffff

So unfortunately, no answers at this time.
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Old 29-07-18, 01:22 PM   #4
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Took the car in last Wednesday to have a faulty water pump replaced (FOC) and the garage said it had possibly been leaking down over the crankshaft timing sensor causing it to misbehave.

Came away having convinced myself that the cause of the fault had been found but the very next day it cut out again after about 30mins driving. Same fault code - crankshaft timing sensor. Towed home by AA as it wouldn't start again even after a couple of hours, and even now 3 days later it won't turn over. Corroded wiring/pins from the leak ?
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Old 02-08-18, 05:12 PM   #5
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So, the car wouldn't start for 6 days after it cut out last Thursday, and I ended up getting it towed to the garage. Garage couldn't get it to start whatever they tried, until they put in a second new crankshaft sensor, after which it started first time.
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Old 10-08-18, 07:40 PM   #6
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I finally sorted the problem with my brother's car. Seem to have anyway....

I got it here to my place on a trailer, found the specific detailed wiring diagrams for the ecu/bsi in servicebox online and went through wire by wire to confirm continuity. All wiring checked out OK. Then checked wiring under live conditions for positive supply and ground supply. All OK. Still no cam/crank sync and P0336 from Diagbox. Again confirmed that his electronics worked in my 407 and mine did not work in his.

As P0336 still was the only code, I decided to concentrate on the crank signal. I did a read across the pins on the crank sensor out of vehicle, then plugged it into the loom and re-read it from the relevant pins on the ECU plug. Got very different readings. Decided it could only be bad contact between terminals in the plug and the sensor. Found a good plug on an old wiring loom off a 406 and replaced the plug on the crank sensor by soldering/heat shrinking. Tried it and fired up first time. Been running for 4 days now [300+ kms] with no sign of any issues [stumbling/cutting out etc] and no recurrence of P0336.

Happy days?
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Old 10-08-18, 10:00 PM   #7
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Crank sensor wiring is a common issue on this engine as it can wear on the block and on the driveshaft leading to crank sensor fault codes and cam and crank sync fault codes
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Old 10-08-18, 11:30 PM   #8
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Wiring was fine here, no rubbing or breaks. First thing I checked when getting the P0336 fault on Diagbox knowing how bad the wiring quality in these cars is.

Problem was in plug itself. I cut open the plug just now to get to the terminals, and they had some visible corrosion on internal contact surfaces, was minor IMO, but obviously enough to affect the quality of the crank sensor signal to the ecu, generating the P0336 fault and no cam/crank sync.
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