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Old 05-03-11, 04:50 PM   #1
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Exclamation 407 lower balljoint replacement

This is how i changed my 407 bottom balljoint....also known as a frip joint
first along with a clunk when turning 'lock to lock' this rust is a sure sign of wear


First Tools Needed for the job........
Suitable Jack And Axle Stand....
e-sockets E18 & E14
Torx T30 & T55
5mm allen key
13mm socket or ring spanner
16mm socket and ring spanner
18mm socket and ring spanner
35mm socket
Dremmel
cup of coffee
jack up the car and find a suitable place for axlestand remove wheel and store safely,remove cage from driveshaft nut and using 35mm socket while helper presses brake undo nut.next move onto the caliper, undo the two 13mm nuts

this allows you to swing the caliper out of the way please remember to support it dont let it hang on the brake pipe,next undo the two t55 torx to release the caliper carrier,

brake disc next, remove the two T30 torx bolts and remove the disc(this may need a bit of persuading with a rubber mallet) we removed the abs sensor bolts next be careful its an allen key NOT torx
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Old 05-03-11, 04:52 PM   #2
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so now your car should look like this

my abs sensor was stuck solid so we left it where it was but we did undo the 16mm track rod end nut ans separate by hitting with a hammer rather than a balljoint splitter(always split the rubber with them things)
undo the bottom arm bolt its 16mm one side and 18m the other and its very tight, this allows you to pull the hub towards you allowing access to the three torx bolts holding the balljoint to suspension arm the two outside bolts are E18 and the middle one's E14 for some reason, when you've undone them the balljoint will probably fall off (mine did) leaving the inner race attached to the hub, we couldnt get a puller in anywere so i just very carefull cut a slot part way through with my dremmel making sure i didnt go all the way i then wedged a screwdriver in the slot (yes i know but it was close) hit it gently with a hammer and the race split in two


i then cleaned everything thoroughly offered up the new balljoint which needed a bit of persuading with a rubber mallet and reversed the process to rebuid
Took about two hours all in and that was taking my time so i didnt break anything

And finally the difference between old and new



hope this helps,ask any questions and i'll try and answer them
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Old 19-03-11, 12:26 AM   #3
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GReat post!!!

My 407 has just failed its MOT and after being quoted 250 for the job I thought I should do it myself. I have a bit of engineering experience (I am an engineer in the RAF and have fixed Harriers, Typhoon and Tornado's) but I havent really worked on my cars much. I was going to get the spares off ebay (54.99 for a pair) and was going to do the job on my drive, is it really as straight forward as your post and is there any advice you can give me???
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Old 19-03-11, 10:49 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backrowslea View Post
GReat post!!!

My 407 has just failed its MOT and after being quoted 250 for the job I thought I should do it myself. I have a bit of engineering experience (I am an engineer in the RAF and have fixed Harriers, Typhoon and Tornado's) but I havent really worked on my cars much. I was going to get the spares off ebay (54.99 for a pair) and was going to do the job on my drive, is it really as straight forward as your post and is there any advice you can give me???
from your experience above this job is well within your remit, it really is just unbolt everything you need to and bolt the new parts back on, i would allow yourself an hour for each side and that should give you plenty of time bearing in mind the second side will fly through.Make sure you have the 35/36 mm socket for the driveshaft nut and a dremmel type thing to cut the inner race off or a junior hacksaw will do.
enjoy and marvel at how much money you've saved at the end of it

let us know how you get on and any pitfalls/problems you may encounter
Trem
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Old 19-03-11, 12:51 PM   #5
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Got to say Trem i think mine are on the way out. Im by no means a mechanic but i am tempted to have a go myself. Great post , detailed and precise. Thank you
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Old 19-03-11, 02:24 PM   #6
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So the question now is do I pay 70 each for the parts i.e. 140 a pair or do I get them off ebay for 60 a pair????
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Old 19-03-11, 05:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backrowslea View Post
So the question now is do I pay 70 each for the parts i.e. 140 a pair or do I get them off ebay for 60 a pair????
IS there a question in that post ?????????Not that i can see
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Old 19-03-11, 06:46 PM   #8
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Was thinking that they must be cheap for a reason... wouldn't want to be doing the same job next year!!
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Old 19-03-11, 06:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backrowslea View Post
Was thinking that they must be cheap for a reason... wouldn't want to be doing the same job next year!!
alright mate, dont know if you have tried but see if you can get a quote from your local motor factors ie unipart and andrew page...might get cheaper and faster...dealers add 's to them to make a massive profit margin. they use the same things but add a "stamp" to say its genuine.



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Old 19-03-11, 07:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backrowslea View Post
Was thinking that they must be cheap for a reason... wouldn't want to be doing the same job next year!!
well mine have lasted, must be a couple of years now at least AND the came in peugeot/citroen boxes so mine were same as original
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