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|05-10-16, 09:06 PM||#1|
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Nr Reading, Berkshire
Changing back plates- the 406 Mk 2
There's been a lot of write ups about changing rusty back plates - that pressed steel disc mounted on each rear hub to keep road muck off the rear disc brakes etc. They can rust really badly - you'll see my two scrap units in the pictures of the hub cleaned up. There's more than one way to do this work no doubt but this is how I did it and I hope these notes are useful.
No warranty with the following whatsoever!
-To replace them you have to pull off the rear hubs and in doing so the puller you use will normally wreck the wheel bearings - so you have to buy a new hub ready for later reassembly.
-To get the hub nut off you need loads of torque - a long armed spanner (I used a 4ft tube)
-The back plates are no longer available from Peugeot (they were £104 each)
-You can get a new items made by klokkerholm, ('they call them splash panels') buying through a UK agent for around £75 a pair, but you will need to salvage the forged steel ring or hub cradle and re-attach this to the new ones.
-The new ones are plated lightly but not the edges and you may wish to paint them or something better to reduce future stone damage and rusting. I painted the edges with seam sealer.
- If you are lucky you might find they just need a de-rust and paint and not in fact removing! (my 14 year old 150k car had the originals but the photos here concern replacing them on an 89k car and they are rusted and holed to hell).
Finally if you go for it and clean up the rear suspension at the same time you will get really filthy (mask, hat and goggles advisable not that I wore 'em)
Its an ideal time to service the brakes at the same time. Typically the 'sliders' (greased round pins) get dry and rusty and seize up and when trying to get the rear pads out the retaining pins are also rusted in.(another git!)
In terms of access when cleaning up its good to get the ABS sensor probe out of the way. Its easy to disconnect it from the loom underneath but the hole in the hub for the sensor pin body gets rusty, making it a dead fit and you will have to carefully drive it out (ie after taking the brake disc and hub off you can see it in full and use the back face of a small socket to drive it it out (but I did smash one). Before you can take the sensor out its held in by a 5 or 6mm bolt with socket head which being a 'git' is rusty and no longer has a recognisable head! (So use perhaps a chisel here and refit later with a new stainless steel screw as I did).
If you fit new bleed nipples etc and have to bleed the system, wait till the car is later wheeled again and on ramps, otherwise with suspension hanging down the rear brake compensator works which can prevent you bleeding the system!
I kept the old girl on stands for a month. In truth it could be done in two weekends but I would suggest if you include any de-rusting and painting a weekend would be a struggle.
Once all apart (see pictures) and having learnt from Harry Houdini how to weld up a Lancia some years ago, I found you can wriggle around underneath and clean up. Wire Brushes in drills are okay if you don't snare pipes and cables but the long strips of emergy I had proved best - just wrap around the wish bones and tug both ways. Finishing protection was Jenolite, Bondaprimer, Hammerite and Waxoyle.
Salvaging the forged ring
Held onto the original backplates by two steel rivets , grind off the heads to recover the ring. Conveniently two part holes will remain in the ring which you can use to guide your drill bit to drill out the rest of the rivet. Then maybe tap the holes to take fixing bolts for the new back plates (see photo)
There a reasonable video on U Tube which makes it look easy.
First real step is to work out how to jack the car safely (I offer no advice on this and please note my pictures do not show all the wheel chocks, jacks and supports I used!)
I wont go through step by step, its logical after disconnecting the battery. Just make sure you take time, if you need it ..(I'm a slow coach)
The Haynes Manual is fair.
I found it best to do one side at a time (Can look at the other during re-assembly) but with both wheels off ground all the time otherwise the anti roll bar becomes twisted because the wheels are not level, and it will fight against your working and access.
Having 'unbolted' all on one side and taken the hub off with an extractor, I needed 1 1/2 hours just to derust what was being kept .
Two s/h brake callipers I partly rebuilt using new slider pins and seals but I had to scrap the original units. Hint - order parts well in advance.
New Parts used:
2 Back Plates
1 set of Brake Pads
1 Brake Fitting Kit
2 Used Callipers
2 Brake refurb kits inc. bleed nipples)
Various Stainless Screws
A new rear ABS sensor
2 new hub nuts
(new brake hoses if perished)
A big lever/spanner for the hub nuts
A puller for the hubs (they are not a really tight fit so an average puller should do. My cheap puller had typical claws on two threaded legs - this proved better than expected- I removed the legs and passed standard wheel bolts through puller body and screwed these into the hub wheel nut holes themselves. On the basis you are scrapping the hub its doesn't matter what stress you place on it....)
Key tools (if going for a big 'clean up')
Lots of emery strip
All manner of wire brushes - drill and flexible drive fitting are good but hand brushes and very small grinding wheels used carefully can be good too.
'Rock steady' axle stands
My sincere thanks to the club for motivating me to go back under. Not as bad a job as I imagined !
Last edited by 7-up; 07-10-16 at 07:23 AM.