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Old 29-11-13, 10:42 PM   #1
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Default 406 2.0 HDI 2001 DW10 engine not starting, "updated".

As a new user and my first post here I would like to write a small intro, I am from Holland and recently started to run a taxi-company with Peugeot 406 in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. Hence my username.

Now the problem. I really ONLY changed the fuel filter and as it was so hard to unscrew the lid that I broke of the fuel return pipe.

To repair it I drilled a hole in the filter and glued a pipe in it but the car refused to start.

I noticed I drilled too far and changed the whole lid for another one.

Still didn't want to start on a normal way ONLY when I forced closed the return pipe the car gave some life but would immediately cut when I would let go of it.

This starting was only of short term as the car stopped running anyway no matter what I tried. Yesterday I towed it trying to get it going for a kilometer but nothing.

I donít have OBD scanners here and I have run out of ideas.
Low-pressure pump is fine and gives plenty diesel. The high pressure pump donít and also the return pipes on top of the injectors seem a bit dry but I donít know how much diesel I should see coming from there.

I touched the fuel cut-off switch to see if it would make a difference but it doesnít even make a sound. Should it?

I am a little weary of taking the high pressure pump to bits as I wonít be able to find parts easily here if anything goes wrong! Is it possible to make a small revision of that part myself or does it take high-tech equipment?

Any ideas highly welcome and appreciated!

Last edited by Ouaga; 01-01-14 at 05:49 PM. Reason: Adding "updated" to title
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Old 30-11-13, 12:14 AM   #2
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DONT remove any high pressure parts it just makes your problem worse

While cranking you will see NO fuel from the injector spill pipes or the high pressure pump outlet as the pressure needs to build up before the ecu allows fuel to flow

If it ran prior to you changing the fuel filter then this is where your problem lies concentrate on getting the filter flowing fuel the low pressure pump should fill it and the feed to the HP pump should flow fuel at key on if its not the engine will not go.
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Old 01-12-13, 02:41 PM   #3
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Thank you for your advice reliable406. There is plenty fuel coming from the low pressure pump. I start to think I have let small plastic particles enter the high pressure pump. I removed it now but as you already wrote; I am weary to take it into parts. It's a Bosch

CR/CP1S3/R65/10 16S
0 445 010 010
99.10.12B 01454
Made in Italy

I can turn it easily but as I have never turned one before I can't tell if it's good or right. Can I test it somehow and if I have to take it to bits where do I start or what should I not do? All is very tight and I am afraid of wrecking it.
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Old 01-12-13, 03:12 PM   #4
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If I understood your message well reliable406 are you telling me that it's normal that there is no flow coming from the high-pressure pump while cranking until the ECU allows it?

So my thought that it has to be the high pressure pump could be wrong as I base my opinion on not enough flow coming from it while cranking...

How can I test the high-pressure pump the 'manual' way? I have it here on the table now anyway...

Thanks in advance...
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Old 01-01-14, 05:40 PM   #5
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Default Maybe this time...

I changed in the recent weeks the high pressure pump to no avail. Today I finally found someone to measure the car and it received fault code 1404.

P1404 IAT - B circuit Malfunction / EGR closed position performance / EDC15C2-Additional heating circuit 2 and pre-heat

It seems that it has nothing to do with changing a fuel filter but before I focus on the EGR maybe someone can look at it more logically.

Tomorrow I will try to find another high pressure fuel sensor but I just can't follow this logically speaking.

Any help appreciated...
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Old 01-01-14, 08:00 PM   #6
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As i said before the fuel filter is the root of your problem

Egr on these will not prevent starting

You need live data with HDIs to find problems not codes

You need to check

ECU UNLOCKED
Fuel pressure minimum 120 bar

Cam and crank syncronisation

Minimum cranking speed 250 rpm

Without all those the ecu will not allow starting the more messing you do without proper diagnosis the more problems you are likely to create
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Old 04-01-14, 10:03 AM   #7
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Thank you for your reply, I will try and do as you say but it's not all clear to me yet, could you explain this:

You need live data with HDIs to find problems not codes

And when I start with a fully loaded battery does the starter arrive to the minimum cranking speed of 250 rpm and if not should I tow it?

There is a lot of pressure before the gasoil enters the high pressure pump. As it is taking care of air itself I look for a trick to examine the flow through the filter. Could I connect tubes directly for testing purpose only or could I fool the relais at the back of the high pressure pump only to get it going?

Thanks...
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Old 04-01-14, 01:51 PM   #8
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does this have a lift pump in the tank does it work
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Old 05-01-14, 09:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karl mcghee View Post
does this have a lift pump in the tank does it work
Yes it does but it works fine. As stated; plenty pressure before the diesel enters the high pressure pump.

Thank you for the reply anyway
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Old 05-01-14, 02:53 PM   #10
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Did you have the battery off as its easy to loose key codes on these it then wont start ?

does car beep to tell you key is in ignition if door is opened?

Live data means reading what the ecu is seeing using diagnostic equipment preferably peugeot planet

Fuel flow through the HP pump is controlled directly by the ecu no solenoids to stop fuel flowing.
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