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Old 10-04-19, 01:01 PM   #1
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Default Installing Parrot hands-free kit: radio/Parrot won't turn on

I have a Parrot hands-free kit which I'm trying to install in my Pug 308 (2008 reg). I have the wiring that is supplied with the Parrot, and an ISO converter kit which consists of a male and a female of: ISO, 8-way connector (centre lug) and 8-way connector (offset lug).

Having connected the various connectors, hopefully correctly, I can't get the radio or the Parrot to turn on - it appears to be a power problem. I've checked the inline various fuses and the power at each side of the fuse holders. Nothing.

With the extra wiring removed and the original ISO connector in the radio, everything works fine - so I haven't blown a fuse in the car.

I'm wondering whether the ISO converter kit is correct, because it only has pins for the large 16-way connector, and not the additional 8-way white connector at the bottom:



However I've tried removing the white connector from the car's ISO connector and putting it into the ISO connector of the converter kit that goes into the radio - no difference.

Is there an order code for the correct converter kit, so I can check whether the one I have has been wired differently.

I may, of course, have connected the kit incorrectly to the Parrot cabling - the diagram in the Parrot manual is rather vague - but I *think* there's only one way of connecting it.

Any suggestions? Anyone tried it and had success?

Is there a pinout of the ISO connector so I can check which wires *should* have 12V between them (ie which is +12V, which is ground?). What is the extra white connector used for?
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Old 10-04-19, 04:55 PM   #2
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When I fitted my parrot albeit an older one I had to use a second loom see pic to get it working I had to take a live feed from the cigarette lighter with the single red wire before mine would work
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Old 10-04-19, 05:44 PM   #3
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I had similar with my old 307 it would not switch on or stay on all the time dependent on the yellow and red wire connection. I used glove box light for the ignition feed as it was close to the radio and ign switched

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Old 10-04-19, 08:04 PM   #4
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Yep you will need a permanent live for some versions of parrot as peugeots wiring does not cater for this as standard

The parrot really only breaks into the power loom and speaker wires so i recon 1 of your power wires is not correct on your harness as radio should still power up.
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Old 11-04-19, 11:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reliable406 View Post
Yep you will need a permanent live for some versions of parrot as peugeots wiring does not cater for this as standard

The parrot really only breaks into the power loom and speaker wires so i recon 1 of your power wires is not correct on your harness as radio should still power up.
I'd have thought that the power to the radio (in the ISO connector) should be what you'd want for the Parrot as well: live that is only switched on when the ignition key is in the accessory or engine-running position.

It looks as if my supposedly Peugeot-specific ISO cable isn't feeding power from its ISO input connector to its ISO output connector. I've just noticed that there are some red and yellow wires within the ISO cable which have plug/socket as if they should be plugged together. I'll check for ignition-switched 12V between them (and one being connected to the car's ground) and then try connecting them. It's a shame that there was no literature with the ISO adaptor cable.

Last edited by martinu; 11-04-19 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 11-04-19, 02:40 PM   #6
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Yes that is correct in theory but not always in practice due to peugeots strange BSI control of the radio your yellow and red wires in the parrot harness do need to be connected
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Old 16-04-19, 10:36 AM   #7
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Yes that is correct in theory but not always in practice due to peugeots strange BSI control of the radio your yellow and red wires in the parrot harness do need to be connected
I've got it working. My ISO loom (as opposed to the one that comes with the Parrot) had two lots of red and two lots of yellow wires that were terminated in single-pin plug/socket. One pair (red/yellow) came out of the back of the input ISO connector (the one connected to the car) and went to the 8-way connector that connects to the Parrot loom, and the other pair came from the Parrot loom 8-way connector to the output ISO connector (the one connected to the radio). Joining up pins of the correct colour allowed everything to work: radio and Parrot behave as expected, with radio sound muting as soon as a call is dialled or answered. And I've even managed to stuff (er, I mean "carefully locate") all the extra wiring and the blue Parrot box behind the tray below the radio. I sellotaped round the plugs/sockets for those extra wires to prevent them pulling apart again as I stuffed everything into the dashboard (which happened to me the first time so I had to get it all out, work out what had gone wrong and start again).

Inserting the mike wire behind the headlining was easy, and I then used a plumber's pipe-bending spring to feed it through the side hole in the dashboard (covered up when the door is closed) and behind the glovebox into the area where the radio goes. Beware: the mike cable is only just long enough to reach, so make sure that when you are locating the blue Parrot box in the space between the radio and the steering column, the mike plug doesn't come unplugged.



One remaining question. Where have people put the little LCD display of the Parrot? I could attach the prongs at the back which allow it to be pushed into one of the round air vents, but it's a bit wobbly. I tried using sticky pads to stick it to the dimpled rubber of the dashboard between the round vents and the long panel where the hazard light switch is, but that's not very flat and it's difficult to get it to stay on. I wondered about drilling out one of the dummy "switches" immediately to the right of the hazard switch and inserting the prong connector into it. Wherever it goes needs to be fairly central so the view of it isn't obscured by the steering wheel. I've fed its cable between the top of the hazard switch panel and the dashboard below the airvents: with a bit of persuasion, it's possible to push excess cable back in or pull out more, as required.



Any suggestions and experience of overcoming this little problem would be gratefully received...

Last edited by martinu; 16-04-19 at 10:47 AM.
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