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Old 17-05-16, 08:04 PM   #1
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Default Turbo Pressure Solenoid

2.0 HDI 110 BHP RHS DW10ATED

Well..... It's one thing after another at the minute!!

The car went into limp mode on the way home from work, when I eventually arrived back I plugged in to PP and the turbo pressure relief valve has shorted or blown. Details in the image attached. I've also had a differential pressure fault, which is down to a partially clogged DPF.

I've had a read through a few of the many posts regarding the P0243 fault, and the general consensus is that this fault could be related to vacuum, or a lack thereof. However, I don't have any other issues related to the vacuum system - am I safe in assuming that the P0243 fault is a consequence of the diff pressure, or is it a case of checking sensors and valves? I've just had the clutch "replaced" (another problem....), so I guess I could be looking at worn/damaged harnesses too?

Any suggestions on best place to start with this one? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated
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Old 18-05-16, 08:46 AM   #2
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swap the turbo solenoid valve with the egr one and see if the fault move.

I would say that the valve is faulty or its wiring as vac faults normally show as low boost fault codes not electrical short/open circuit codes
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Old 18-05-16, 09:13 AM   #3
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Cheers windy - any ideas on which valve I'm supposed to be looking at before I start taking things apart (ie. location)? I've looked on servicebox, and I've a choice of 4 "electro valves". As I'm looking at servicebox, it appears that the vacuum pipe for the turbo valve runs past the vac reservoir, round the back of the engine and into the turbo - so if I trace this back from the rear of the engine and down past the vac reservoir I should find the turbo valve?
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Old 18-05-16, 09:42 AM   #4
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Bottom right (standing in front of car) by starter motor.

It's the one valve which is not fed from the vac tank it has a direct feed from vac pump

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Old 18-05-16, 09:50 AM   #5
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Cheers buddy, much appreciated
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Old 18-05-16, 10:43 AM   #6
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Driving to work this morning was horrendous - 1st and 2nd gears absolutely lifeless, 3rd same until turbo suddenly kicks in at 2,000rpm (normally kicks in at 1,800). Going to have a play with the valves at lunch, would a multimeter determine if the solenoid is faulty?
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Old 18-05-16, 04:52 PM   #7
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UPDATE

After a bit of digging around and searching the internet at work all afternoon, I've worked out that the solenoid I need to look at is located at the base of the engine next to what I think is the A/C compressor. It's attached to the engine casing by a bracket, with a vac pipe feeding the top port of the valve and the bottom port has a vac pipe which runs underneath and up the back of the engine to the turbo/EGR area. If anybody can either confirm or correct this, then I'd be grateful.

Got home and removed the bracket - the heads of both bolts sheered straight off at the first turn on ratchet..... Had to bodge it together until tomorrow.

Removed the piping from the valve and the valve from the bracket. Gave the valve a bit of a clean.

Got the multimeter out. Tested the pins on the valve, and got a resistance of 18.7 ohms.

Tested the plug on the wiring loom, and had 0V.

Cleaned the plug and wires, saw that the plastic sheath was damaged. exposing the copper core.

Tested the exposed core against the opposite terminal and got 3.4 - 3.6V.

So, it looks like it was broken wiring, as Windy1603 correctly hinted at.

Would it be a case of soldering a new connector onto the existing loom (looks the easy option), or is it best swapping out the loom (not liking the idea of that.....)?
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Old 18-05-16, 05:24 PM   #8
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If you look at the plastic cable trough on front of engine you may find you have an unused oil temp sensor plug tapped or clipped to the trough (near rear of HP pump) in some cases this plug will fit the valve so you can snip it off with a short length of cable and tape up the cut ends and use that to repair the damaged plug.

Strange that turbo valve is on that side are you sure you are confusing it with EGR (where pipe goes over to back of engine). On my RHS engine turbo valve is by starter and vac hose goes under the engine to turbo.

If turbo works above 2000-2500 rpm disconnect servo vac pipe and squirt some oil of wd40 into vac pump. I know of at least 3 cars where sticking non return valve in vac pump caused lack of boost etc similar to your faults.

However with an electrical fault logged I would 95% certain its a faulty valve or wiring
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Old 18-05-16, 05:36 PM   #9
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That is possible, I've looked at all 4 solenoids located in the front end of the engine, and this was the only one (I think) that had the feed from the pump and went through to the turbo area. I'll give it another look tomorrow at work. The vac pipe runs parallel to the manifold which drops down from the turbo/EGR area and into the intercooler, and I can feel the EGR vac pipes running from nearside to offside underneath the windscreen scuttle.

I'll go out now and look on PP to see if anything has changed regarding short circuiting (you never know, my meddling could have caused more issues!).

There is boost above 2,000rpm, so I'll give the piping a squirt as suggested.
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Old 18-05-16, 05:55 PM   #10
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If its a grey plug, then its the turbo solenoid. ( Blue is EGR, Black is air doser, I believe )

If you have a vacuum gauge handy, you can check the vacuum supply to the solenoid, sometimes if the turbo seems slow to respond then it could be starved of vacuum ( should be about -700mb to - 1 bar ish )
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