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Old 22-07-19, 06:46 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 4
Default Depollution fault fixed

I get a bit fed up of OP questions where the OP is given a lot of suggestions and then does not let the forum members know the result.

So to help out, here is my findings of a 307 2.0 HDI 136 with the dreaded de-pollution fault and the throttle response low down surging badly - un-drivable.

I got my PP auto-diag and found the following codes
P0489 (egr)
P0299 (turbo)
P1461 (egr)
P3007 (flow meter).

EGR was high on the list so i took it off, despite the haynes manual, you can get to it without removing the engine mounts. The motor operation was not smooth, it appeared to have a mid position that it stopped at, but when ordering a new one it is clear the sweep of the valve motor should be smooth when operated by hand.

I had recently used a can of EGR cleaner on air filter outlet, so the EGR itself was sooty not oily, however, the sensor in the inlet manifold (North of where the EGR air pipe goes) was caked in oil and grease, so I carefully cleaned this out with petrol and an artist's paint brush, and let it dry.

Finally I took the DPF off (the big exhaust filter near the engine, connected to the cat), I split the cat off from the DPF and blasted the DPF both sides with the pressure washer for half an hour till it came out clean, in hindsight, this was not too clogged up, but was a clean as a whistle when I finished. (DO NOT POWER WASH THE CAT IT IS TOO DELICATE). I suspect this was not required so if you get the above codes it may be worth skipping this step.

Put it back together and started the car up, and got P0102 and P0113, turns out I had forgotten to connect the sensor in the air filter top box. Doh.

Re-connected the sensor and cleared all codes, and it was a heck of a lot better, the throttle did not surge, though it could be a little smoother at low revs.

So after searching several forums went with the programming in of the EGR via diag-box, as others have said this is buried in there, you have to do either maintenance or repair (forget which) then select the injection system, and eventually you get to configure the EGR (it is a menu option). The configuration is switching the engine and ignition on and off when it tells you.

Took it for a ride, and smooth city.

Hope this helps someone.
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Last edited by JerryCan; 22-07-19 at 08:04 PM. Reason: added word "know"
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Old 22-07-19, 07:05 PM   #2
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: falkirk
Posts: 13,909

Sounds like all your issues were simply down to a sticky EGR so well done in fixing it.

Depollution fault/Antipollution fault is not really a fault its a MESSAGE telling you there are faults its just very poorly worded it can pop up for ANY pollution related fault on both petrol and diesel engined cars.

DPF faults are automatically assumed when antipollution/depollution is displayed but its not always the case.
assume nothing check everything twice !!
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Old 22-07-19, 07:54 PM   #3
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Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 4

Many thanks for responding.

Agree the term de-pollution is a general term that covers several components, and the surging was the EGR, though on some forums whilst the members tell you it is the EGR it was a youtube video that put me onto the smoothness test.

If I got P3007 again I would be inclined to clean out the inlet manifold sensor (MAF?) as the wires were bridged with the oily grease.

Whilst I was at this, I saw a drip of coolant on the bottom of the outside of the EGR cooler (the expansion tank was losing some coolant on long motorway trips), I noticed that the top coolant pipe to the EGR (other end to the heater) had a slight pink crust, and when I took it off there was some evidence of leakby on the o-rings (bit like the challenger o-rings but without the lethal consequences) so I replaced these. The pipes came in a 2 set with the other pipes going to the thermostat housing. These were aftermarket ones and the connectors that went into the heater pipes on the bulkhead were about 1mm too short, so I filed 1mm from the heater outlets, and crossed my fingers this worked and it did. The sprung metal connector clips have to firmly hold and should pass the tug test, which they did not to start with. Also note the bleed cap (like a tyre valve cap) needs to be tightened up considerably to stop leaking.

It could be that I should have just replaced the o ring on the EGR pipe, but it is not a size found in my Halfords multi pack, also the thermostat hose metal insert broke off when I took it off so buying the new pipes may have been the right thing to do.

Anyway, bit of thread drift but there are a number coolant leak threads with no results, so glad to have added my $.05 worth.
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Old 23-07-19, 11:16 AM   #4
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 1,741

Great info. If only all forum members did this( on all forums by the way) all would be great and the technical knowledge base would vastly improve. Unfortunately in todays world everybody wants an easy answer without having to put in any hard work themselves so as soon as they fix their problem feedback goes out of the window. Like you it drives me mad but what can you do. Ban them from the forum would be my choice!!
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Old 23-07-19, 11:46 AM   #5
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Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 4

There should be a system to stop new threads from a poster until they had published the solution to the old one.
Also, the threads should indicate at the summary level, whether the solution had been posted.
I fully accept that people do not have the facilities or inclination to wield spanners and may take it to a garage anyway, which is fine, but indicating what parts the garage changed and whether that fixed it would still help.
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