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Old 03-06-16, 07:54 PM   #1
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Default Cooling System

I've been having a few issues recently with the cooling system - the temp gauge is erratic, coolant is disappearing over the course of about 3-4 weeks, and the cooling fan doesn't work.

On top of that, the STOP warning light came on with a temp message on the MFD whilst taking the missus to the hospital for a midwife visit, but then engine wasn't anywhere near hot. She wasn't happy

So, the plan is to check everything - from fuses and relays to draining the system and replacing the temp sensor and thermostat.

Are there any pointers for me to prevent me making a balls up of it? It's a DW10ATED engine. My plan of attack is to get the fan working first - is it a bumper off job to get to the relays or are there any sneaky tricks?
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Old 05-06-16, 08:10 AM   #2
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on planet you can get all the fans to work manually if that helps

if you disconnect them temp sensor when running it should put the fan on as a failsafe.

the tempreture sensors where they sit and clip in do break so be careful. the top of the thermostat breaks easy to. not an easy job to replace the housing
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Old 05-06-16, 09:00 AM   #3
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Cheers Monty, I'll unplug the temp sensor and see if the fan works. I guess this will narrow down any issues.

I've had a thought that I'm taking the car in to have the timing belt and pump changed soon, so there seems little point in draining the system only to have it done at the garage. So I reckon I'll just have a look at the relays/wiring, if the fan isn't working.

I've tried to test the fan using PP before, but nothing happened. I get a clicking as though something is trying to happen, I just can't distinguish what it's trying to do. I can't tell if it's a relay or an actuator trying to get the fan to shift.
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Old 05-06-16, 09:16 AM   #4
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If it clicks but nothing happens, either the relay contacts are defective, there is no power available to the relay, the wiring has a break or the fan motor is defective.

Can you test the fan motor for voltage across it when you switch it to run with PP?
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Old 05-06-16, 12:16 PM   #5
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You lose very little coolant if your quick on the temp and thermostat so no worries there
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Old 07-06-16, 07:50 AM   #6
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Had a play around with PP and the actuator test last night. Firstly, gave the engine ECU a fault reading and had the following intermittent faults:

P0115 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit
Engine Speed - 2088rpm
Coolant Temp - 17 deg
Air Temp - 18 deg
Measured Fuel Temp - 35 deg
Actual delivery - 21mm^3/stroke

P1519 - FRIC (Cooling function integral with the ECU) Consitency between the fan speed and the setting
Engine Speed - 900rpm
Actual Delivery - 11mm^3/stroke
Coolant Temp - 44 deg
Air Temp - 22 deg
Battery Voltage - 14.3V

P1429 - Differential Pressure Exhaust Signal

Ok, I know the P1429 is probably a consequence of the other two fault codes, as the DPF is not being put through the regen process due to the cooling fans not operating.

I ran the low speed and high speed actuator test on PP, and the only observations were a faint hum coming from around the HP pump area and the high-pitched hum from the fuel lift pump in the tank.

Does anyone know if the fans and pumps are running on the same circuit? I briefly had a look at the Haynes manual circuits and can't see how they would operate in tandem (based on the wiring). Of course, I'm assuming that the actuator test only operates the cooling circuits.

As both speed settings weren't functioning, I'm opting towards a faulty fan unit, or I'm unlucky and both relays are malfunctioning/knackered.

Finally, the P0115 fault seems a little vague - I'm guessing this could be any part of the entire cooling circuit? Looking at the data though, the fuel temperature seems anomalous - coolant and air temp are very similar, yet the fuel is twice the temperature. Would this seem like the correct direction to be heading with this fault?
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Old 07-06-16, 08:02 AM   #7
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On the 407, its usually the wiring loom to the fan that needs replacing. Not sure if that also applies to the 307.
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Old 07-06-16, 08:05 AM   #8
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Cheers Gibbo, I'll get the multimeter out and see what I can find. I kind of sounds like that could be the best case scenario - replacing a loom sounds like an easy option
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Old 12-06-16, 05:34 PM   #9
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I finally got round to having a play around with the fans on the 307.

I read through Haynes to see what they recommend doing to get access to the low and high speed relays (1 fan, 2 speed). Their suggestion is to jack the car, remove both front wheels, remove the arch liners and remove the bumper.....

I recommend ignoring Haynes, it's a waste of time (unless you want to take out the full fan assembly). I just removed the cover (which sits on top of the bumper and has the bonnet lock threaded through it) by removing the clips, prising the clips securing the cover to the bumper apart with a flat screwdriver, unscrewing the cover from the back of the angry Lion, and as there was enough play in the cover and bumper, pulling the bumper forward and the cover over the bonnet catch.

This gave plenty of access to the relays, and saved loads of time.

I noticed there was one relay floating about loose and not secured to the fan assembly. The more I delve in to the car, the more I am left thinking that the previous owner had a bump, as there are a few front end bits which are looking like they've suffered.

I took both relays out of the sockets and they were both heavily corroded (see pics). A bit of a scrub with a wire brush and a tickle with some grit paper, the pins looked much cleaner. A little dollop of vaseline on each pin should keep the oxidising at bay for a while!

Then performed the actuator tests on PP, and the high speed setting works a treat now, so hopefully no more overheating. Unfortunately, I think the low speed relay is shot, as the unit was a bit battered.
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Old 17-07-16, 08:08 AM   #10
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Hi all just wondering I have a 307 mkii CC and have the same problem with my radiator fan not kicking in on either level.
Can someone just confirm where i would find the relays for the fan? just so i can see if its them that are faulty or the actual fan itself.
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