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Old 07-12-11, 09:38 PM   #1
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Eaglesfield, Lockerbie
Posts: 99
Default Boot latch problem 307 XSi 2.0L


Our 2003 307 has developed a problem with the boot latching and locking mechanism.

Sometimes when we shut the boot, as it shuts the mechanism operates and the boot remains unlocked. It goes to the closed position but doesn't latch shut.

If we slam it then it it will close and after a while it will latch and lock closed.

Does anyone have any ideas on whats wrong and a solution?

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Old 07-12-11, 09:41 PM   #2
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The plastic cover on the boot door lock. Have a look at it? Is it loose or dislodged.
Press the button on the outside, can you hear the tiny click when you press it. Does the handle get stuck?
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Old 18-12-11, 09:54 AM   #3
Inactive User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1
Default hatchback latch won't lock

Hi, same thing happended with me about 2 weeks ago. the problem is the handle mechanism in the hatchback. for an interim fix, only way to lock the car is to hold the hatchback closed, applying some pressure and then pushing the lock button on the key: all doors will lock except the rear hatch. then just lift the hatch a bit and close - everything locked. unfortunately, have to drive around with the warning light/signal until fixed. here's how i fixed it with some online source help (read entirely before starting):
lift the hatch. remove the two hex screws located in the 2 handles/wells on the inside plastic covering below the hatchback window. the cover is also held on by 8-10 metal/plastic pins; 4-5 upper and 4-5 lower. remove the plastic cover by firmly pulling, first the bottom part of the cover near the latching mechanism and then the upper part at the window - a flat tip screwdriver and flashlight were helpful in seeing and prying sthe upper side pins out of their holes. now with the cover removed, you see a wire going to the hatchback handle: it has a snap-in connector. squeeze the sides and pull it out. if you close the hatch with the wire disconnected, you must climb in the back and reconnect the wire in order to open it again )
next, to remove the handle to work on it, remove the two nuts and just pop it out. looking at the handle, you see the piece of black plastic that your fingers contact when opening the hatch: this is supposed to slightly move to depress a small metal plunger/micro-switch (i never even noticed it moving before when it was working properly when opening the hatch). look and you'll see the small switch. if the switch is still good, you'll hear it click when depressing and releasing the black plastic piece. if it's not clicking, you need a new micro-switch. problem with mine was that the black plastic piece wasn't springing back after depressing, leaving the hatch in the open mode the entire time. you can simply pull up on the black plastic piece to remove it. i cleaned it up and lubricated the 2 grooves it sits in (don't think that'll help much but did it anyway). not seeing any spring mechanism that would force the black plastic piece back after depressing the switch, and not believing that just lubing the plastic piece would last long at all, i took apart a ballpoint pen and cut 5-6 mm off the end of the spring. carefully using some epoxy glue (hoping it holds through all temps/weather) and applying with a toothpick, i glued the compressed end of the spring over the microswitch (free to move in the center of the spring) and let the glue set. then being careful not to disturb the spring, put the black plastic piece back in (push firmly to snap into the grooves). on the black plastic piece, there a small "tab" jutting out that is actually the piece that depresses the switch: that should fit right in and line up with the other end of the spring. try it - depress the plastic piece and release it - you should hear the clicking of the switch, engaging and releasing. if all is good, leave alone and let the glue dry. after the glue has dried, i sprayed it all with light coating of silicone to repel water and try to keep spring from rusting. put everying back together and it works. when putting the cover back on, recommend you have a helper. there's a small jagged plastic tab on each side (left/right) of the cover at the top (near window) - hook those in and then line up the pins at the top with their holes and a swift knock with side of the fist will push them in. do bottom pins (near latch) last. good luck!

Last edited by 307er; 18-12-11 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 02-07-17, 02:46 PM   #4
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 36

just to add to this I have just done one for the neighbours and it was as simple as the micro switch being stuck on if your symptoms are shutting your boot it engages the lock then immediately reopens then its 99.9% the micro switch people almost think these are like touch screen or like on the cc when you touch the back of the handle to get in and it senses your touch and pulls the window down an inch or two well its not the case on these boot latches/handles they do depress a few millimetres just enough to trigger the micro switch if you press it a few times and it feels like it isn't moving at all then whip the black casing off of the boot 2 star drives and clips holding it in place clip separator quite handy look inside 2 10mm nuts whip them off and remove boot handle might need to give it a little wiggle as dirt and grime can weld them in place look on the underside of the handle where you press to open and pull the black plastic back towards yourself and you will see the micro switch in my case a good clean and a good spray of PCB cleaner freed it up and is now working perfectly able to use central locking off the key and stop the damn interior light flashing on and of and the warning light if this doesn't work for you then it would be a new handle/latch/switch what ever you want to call it but they are cheap enough on eBay your local breaker or pug dealer thanks.
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