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Old 09-08-17, 12:09 PM   #1
arc
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Default 307CC Intermittent tick over issue

Hi All,

Not sure if its something to worry over but my 307cc HDI will for no reason just cut out whilst on tick over. I'm trying to localize it down to when where how type thing but it seems to be after its been standing for a few hrs.

It starts no probs and I always give it 5-10mins warm up before starting for work or coming home from work. After a couple of mins from pulling away if i stop at lights or a junction it will cut out. No warnings or alarms and it startS up immediately and then its fine. It drives fine otherwise with plenty of power, good acceleration and a steady tick over.

I do have pp2000 so was wondering what area would be best to to start looking or eliminating before it does/may become a problem.


thanks
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Old 09-08-17, 01:13 PM   #2
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Live data whilst running first off.
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Old 09-08-17, 06:38 PM   #3
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I've always considered leaving an engine idling to 'warm up' to be one of the worst things you can do (you could always just empty the oil to do a proper job).

It gives a whole range of bad - relatively low oil pressure with an enriched mixture for a start.

Get in, start engine, drive. I bet your stalling issue disappears within days.
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Old 09-08-17, 06:50 PM   #4
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Strange scenario that! First I have heard of it. In fact most people would agree that to allow the engine to warm up before loading it is a good thing!
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Old 09-08-17, 07:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madbadandold View Post
Strange scenario that! First I have heard of it. In fact most people would agree that to allow the engine to warm up before loading it is a good thing!
I'm not talking about redline from cold, but just driving (not hard) is by far the best way to warm up an engine.

Getting to the first junction warms it up better than wasting fuel and clogging stuff up leaving it to idle, especially on a diesel. They're not designed to sit idling...

Maybe a 1926 petrol engine benefitted slightly from a 45second warmup, but all it really does now is bugger with all the emission control malarkey and cause premature wear.
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Old 09-08-17, 07:06 PM   #6
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I get the point but I do not think what he is doing would cause the issue but it would be nice if he tries your advice and sees what the outcome is.
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Old 09-08-17, 07:39 PM   #7
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If I hadn't seen similar in the past I might have a different view, but I have - along with hesitation, smoke, etc. which have been 'cured' with an Italian service and following the advice as is printed in my bmw bike handbook "do not allow the engine to idle excessively from cold"...

I'd like to see any outcome as well - like what is there to lose by giving it say a week of not bothering to warm up and see if the stalling is reduced?

If it's still the same the only thing 'lost' is saving a couple of quid of fuel
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Old 09-08-17, 08:10 PM   #8
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I'm with pdg here, idling a motor till it warms up is not good for anything. Get in, start it, give it a short while to allow oil to circulate, then drive it off keeping revs away from the red line till it is warmed up. The engine warms up much quicker when being driven under load.
A cold idling motor is running a very rich fuel mixture, it needs this to keep going. If you drive it, the inertial mass is much higher, no chance of stalling, so the fuel map switches to a much leaner mix which is much better for the health of the motor and the atmosphere...
Most wear is when it is cold/oil circulation not up to spec, so getting engine up to temp as quickly as possible is the way to go.
As an aside, my race car has the ability to crank without starting, this allows me to crank it to bring the oil pressure up and get oil circulating around all wear areas before hitting the go button and putting the motor under load at much higher rpm compared with cranking under no load. Most mechanical wear happens in this initial start up when oil protection is at a minimum, google it..
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Old 09-08-17, 08:22 PM   #9
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I too am in the not any need to idle camp as engines are designed to run most efficiently in their power band in most cases this will be in the 1500-3000 rpm range at other rev ranges they are not running cleanly.

Diesels are not very prone to stalling though in the manor described but i would try the get in and drive method first see if things improve if not i would then be looking at my old favourite dodgy wiring to fuel sensor crank sensor or similar.
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Old 10-08-17, 08:44 AM   #10
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Is the BMW bike air cooled as that would be why that advisory is in there, but all points are noted and I agree with them, especially the fact that it is a diesel and they are not prone to the fault.
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