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Old 22-12-17, 07:37 AM   #1
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Default 307 SW 110 HDi multiple faults

Sorry this is a bit of a long post, I bought a 307 SW 110 HDi about six months ago that had been off the road, after changing a wheel bearing, both lower front ball joints and repairing an ABS sensor’s wiring I got it through its MOT.

Since then using the great guide on here I’ve fitted cruice control to it. It has been running fine apart from the fuel economy being less that I hoped it would be ~40-45MPG despite my driving mostly consisting of 60-70mph driving on a mixture of motorways and A roads for 60 miles each day.

I bought Peugeot Plant to read the ABS fault codes to allow me to fix the sensor, whilst doing this it also read the following codes:

Engine ECU
Permanent fault. Fan high speed circuit. Short-circuit to earth or open circuit
Engine ECU
Intermittent fault. Accelerator pedal blocked. Strategy activated

Diesel fuel additive control unit
Permanent fault. Diesel additive pump. Open circuit
Diesel fuel additive control unit
Intermittent fault. Diesel tank cap signal. Open circuit

It was running fine so I didn’t touch anything else. ~8000 miles later I’m driving up a steep hill on the motorway leaving Inverness when the dreaded ‘antipollution fault’ came on, an ‘ESP failure’ also came on but from reading on here that is a red herring. It is now running in limp home mode and won’t rev over 2800.

I read the codes again last night with Peugeot Plant and got this massive list:

ABS or ESP ECU
Intermittent fault. Communicating with the engine management ECU fault. Incorrect value received
ABS or ESP ECU
C100: Fault doe not have an after sales reference

Diesel fuel additive control unit
Permanent fault. Diesel additive pump. Open circuit
Diesel fuel additive control unit
Intermittent fault. Diesel tank cap signal. Open circuit

Engine ECU
Permanent fault. Fan high speed circuit. Short-circuit to earth or open circuit
Engine ECU
Permanent fault. Additive system. Fault: fuel additive accuracy
Engine ECU
Permanent fault. Additive quantity. Fuel additive ECU
Engine ECU
Permanent fault. Additive quantity. Fuel additive low level reached
Engine ECU
Permanent fault. Particle filter. Particulate filer punctured or exhaust differential pressure info
Engine ECU
Intermittent fault. Accelerator pedal blocked. Strategy activated

When I was last under the car fixing the ABS sensor the additive tank looked half full. From reading on here it sounds like either my DPF is blocked of the sensor reading it is knackered. Could it have used 1/2 a tank of additive in 8000 miles?

I’ve attached some pics showing further info about the DPF
Attached Thumbnails
img_0944.jpg   img_0946.jpg   img_0947.jpg  

Last edited by 307SW_HDi; 22-12-17 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 22-12-17, 10:20 AM   #2
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I can't help that much with specifics, but possibly some comparisons with my 307 sw se (1.6hdi 110)?

Most of my driving is shortish runs, multiple times a day, currently about 20% with a trailer on.

In the summer/autumn I was getting 50-60 mpg, but now it's a bit colder out that's dropped to the high 40s (49mpg on my last fill up) - not entirely unexpected, but frustrating nonetheless... Given your location maybe it's just feeling a bit chilly?

How do you fuel the car? From what I gather the additive is dosed in a fixed amount every time you take the fuel cap off - so you use more by popping in a fiver a time instead of letting it run down then brimming it. I always take mine down until the light then fill it completely. It's a 60litre tank, so if you're putting in 5l each time you'll use 10-12 times more additive than me...

I got "antipollution fault" and limp mode 2 days after I bought it... I was going away for the weekend and it happened on the way, but we got there. I left it for the weekend and come Monday morning there was no fault and since then it's just driven normally - I don't know.

Also I've had the triangle warning light illuminated since I bought it, along with "risk of filter clogging" every time I start it - I've decided to scientifically ignore it for the time being though

Hope you get to the bottom of it, they're nice cars tbh. I'll follow the thread and if anything else springs to mind I'll shout.
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Old 22-12-17, 10:24 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply, I use the car mostly for going back and forward to work, which is about 30 miles each way and is a mixture of motorway and A roads. I normally wait until the tank is between 1/8 and 1/4 before I brim it.

Before it went into limp mode I did notice that turbo was sometimes boosting later than normally, e.g. it would come on a 3000rpm rather than 2200rpm. I just put this down to a lazy actuator solenoid which I was planning on replacing in the new year.
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Old 22-12-17, 10:29 AM   #4
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The other thing I can't understand from reading other threads on here the fault:
Engine ECU
Permanent fault. Additive quantity. Fuel additive low level reached

Shouldn't this have been displayed on the info screen?
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Old 22-12-17, 10:39 AM   #5
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Check the wiring for the fan. May have rubbed on the radiator. The accelerater pedal one is new to me. But strategy activated sounds like a closed loop system so there may be an intermittent fault with the pedal switch or wiring.

As for the limp mode and loss of power. There is a problem with the regen system that has probably blocked your dpf.

Either wiring to the additive pump and fuel filler cap sensor or at the additive ecu if it has one.

The fuel filler cap sensor is a common fault as the sensors just fail or the magnets in the filler cap fall out. But the open circuit at the pump means no eolys fluid and no Regen. Same with the cap sensor.
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Old 22-12-17, 10:40 AM   #6
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Well something I did notice.

You've got a cap sensor fault, so the system might not know when you're putting fuel in - that could confuse many things... I'd likely start there.

The turbo not responding as expected is probably related to the dpf - if it's clogged or holed (or a faulty sensor) it won't operate normally.

Might be worth checking the battery and charging system too - I've heard (but have no first hand experience) that the systems on these are quite finicky about low voltage. It makes sense in a way that if certain reference voltages are expected but not delivered that all sorts of faults could be thrown up that don't truly exist.
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Old 22-12-17, 10:49 AM   #7
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Your DPF is not regenerating due to those faults, hence limp mode to save the turbo. The high speed fan has to be working, there has to be what the ecu thinks is enough additive in the tank, it has to be able to detect refuelling, the differential pressure sensors need to be working as do all the glow plugs (strangely you don't have the common 1351 error). You may be able to get away with taking off the dpf, cleaning and refitting it, sorting the fan problem and checking the wiring and possibly replacing the fuel cap sensor as this is a common fault. Double check the additive levels as later cars used a pouch in a plastic container, which can make it look like there is additive left. Don't ignore the problem otherwise it will get expensive.

Is this the 1.6 or 2.0? Also what year?
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Old 22-12-17, 11:02 AM   #8
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All common faults and well documented. Note the P codes, search for them on here.
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Old 23-12-17, 12:43 PM   #9
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Very much untrained advice but having had some fun and games recently playing with my DPF the results for the pressure difference of 0.0mb looks interesting.

I would check the pipes from the exhaust gas pressure sensor as I have read they are prone to clogging, as mine were, or holed which I believe can give false pressure readings for the DPF.

As others have said the combination of the various faults will add to the overall problem so you will have to work through all of them but this might help a little bit.

Feel free to ignore this if I am talking nonsense (as I usually am). Good luck
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Old 29-12-17, 08:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlashProm View Post
Check the wiring for the fan. May have rubbed on the radiator. The accelerater pedal one is new to me. But strategy activated sounds like a closed loop system so there may be an intermittent fault with the pedal switch or wiring.

As for the limp mode and loss of power. There is a problem with the regen system that has probably blocked your dpf.

Either wiring to the additive pump and fuel filler cap sensor or at the additive ecu if it has one.

The fuel filler cap sensor is a common fault as the sensors just fail or the magnets in the filler cap fall out. But the open circuit at the pump means no eolys fluid and no Regen. Same with the cap sensor.
Thanks for the reply, I understand the logic regarding this and I am planning on sorting these faults, however why does Planet say the following:

distance traveled since the last regeneration 140 km
average distance between the last 5 regeneration 356 km

Does this mean even though the pump has been open circuit and the fan hasn't been working on high speed it has managed to complete a regeneration???

For the fuel cap could I just replace the reed switch with a small toggle switch I flick on/off when I fuel up? Also regarding this, why do they need it anyway, the ECU knows the fuel level. Every time the ignition is turned off it could just store it, then the next time it is turned on if the level has increased compared to the stored value it knows it has been refueled, simple and no switch.
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