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307 2002 clutch judder

9K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  elmafudd 
#1 ·
hi had the engine out as dmf on way out after 56000 miles, replaced with borg and beck smf kit hkf 1008.
cleaned flywheel cleaned pressure plate friction disk in ok and lined up and all fitted and torqued ok. started engine reversed out of garage and engine is trying to escape. i have never had any knackered clutch judder the way that did, the whole engine rocks, have checked the engine mounts all ok, fork is not pulsing when running in neutral or when depressed even though it's still making the engine judder when in 1st gear. any ideas?
 
#2 ·
Ive got same model, and its had the solid flywheel conversion also, and have a hurrendous judder too.. Not done in my ownership but i find the only way to counter this is to give it at least 1500rpm pulling off to stop it stalling/smashing itself to bits!
Just fine in every other gear...

Be interested to see if anyone knows also!
 
#14 ·
Was it a rebuilt pp, Borg and Beck use to be the DB back in the day looks like their Quality control is lacking a bit nowadays, I am looking to replace the clutch on my sons 307 it has horrendous judder in 1st I think it has a DMF and I will change to a SMF.
Just wanted to thank you for your input in my thread regarding the EGR solenoid, changed it today and EGR fault and error codes gone.:D
 
#5 ·
well id love to strip the box as im sure something similar has happened with mine but its a huge job, gets any worse i shall think twice!

Bridplumber, i noticed you have had yours de-dpf'd.. now is that software only or physically also? Im getting faults and poor mpg and just wondered which route you have gone!

Thanks
 
#7 ·
removing the gearbox isn't that involved, should take about 2 hrs on your own, remove battery tray, gearbox linkages, loosen driveshaft nuts, jack up and support on axle stands, pop both balljoints, drain gearbox oil, remove both driveshafts, reverse sensor, timing sensor, starter, rear gearbox mount, undo engine rear mount, crack all other gearbox bolts, support on trolley jack, remove gearbox mount, drop engine and gearbox slightly and pull forward, undo all box bolts including ones by the turbo hose and rear engine stop, remove box, like i said easy,( there are a few bolts which are difficult to remove, get to) but you should be able to remove in 2-3 hours on your own, easier with a friend helping.
 
#6 ·
ecu downloaded with galletto then sent off via email and returned and banged straight on, take off dpf and knock the crap out of it, disconnect sensor plug and remove dpf with planet. will be getting an upgrade via hdi_tuning for the extra 30bhp once this clutch is done. he also does the dpf removal files.
 
#9 ·
Well the clutch job, i thank you for the description and will hold it on ice for time being!
Being an '02, was your DPF a one piece welded unit or the bolted flange one?
i have the welded one.. a cut open job i suspect. And i guess backward compatibility to the flanged aint gonna happen.
Thanks for the info and will sort the software side of things asap!
 
#18 ·
Hi Everyone...

Just bought a 307 HDi and its juddering before the clutch bites in first and second, sound like the flywheel? Clutch is still strong and can bite hard enough to spin the wheels, but the juddering is making me think its the flywheel?

How catastrophically is this likely to fail? Right now its very drive-able but I'm wondering how long its got left and how much warning I will get?

How can I find the right part number for the clutch kit? and if its DMF or SMF??

Thanks,

Andy
 
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