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Old 03-10-18, 02:52 AM   #1
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Default Towbar ...

Am I being a bit dim
I don't have a towbar, so I am going off online pics...
Today, I've been under the car looking to see where the towbar would fit,
but the bolts on the towbar (on the 45 degree up arms, at the end of the bar)
don't seem to have anywhere to go all the way through (on the car)...
I'm trying to suss it, so I can make one myself.... or buy the right one 2nd hand
Cheers
Liam
ps

the F1 bits at the ends... there's no holes through on my car ?

Last edited by lammcl; 03-10-18 at 02:55 AM.
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Old 03-10-18, 07:30 AM   #2
pdg
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See in the picture with the handsome chap, just aft of the silencer mount, there's a set of square and round holes?

And you see there's another square and round hole in the rear cross member?

And you see part F1 has a rectangular plate on the bolt?


What you do is fiddle the bolt with plate through the square hole and out of the round one, the square plate stops the bolt turning while you fit the nut.

There's usually some superficial cuts and lots of swearing involved...


You could drill the other side of the channels to put a bolt all the way through, but if you do that I would recommend putting a sleeve inside the channel to stop it collapsing when the bolt is tightened.
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Old 03-10-18, 10:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdg View Post
See in the picture with the handsome chap, just aft of the silencer mount, there's a set of square and round holes?

And you see there's another square and round hole in the rear cross member?

And you see part F1 has a rectangular plate on the bolt?


What you do is fiddle the bolt with plate through the square hole and out of the round one, the square plate stops the bolt turning while you fit the nut.

There's usually some superficial cuts and lots of swearing involved...


You could drill the other side of the channels to put a bolt all the way through, but if you do that I would recommend putting a sleeve inside the channel to stop it collapsing when the bolt is tightened.
Wow !

Thank you !

I would never have though of that in a million years !

Many Thanks
Liam

ps Only thing is I can't see that handsome fella you're talking about....I can only see that dopey looking one
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Old 03-10-18, 10:44 AM   #4
pdg
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No probs, once you've seen a few you get to know

There's a few versions of the same idea around, either a nut or bolt with a captive plate, or a nut with a clippy thingy that located in the square hole - depends on supplier.

One thing they all share though is you rarely get the nuts/bolts with a used bar - because the plate is usually just tacked on.

You get a bit of rust on the threads, and the tacks or clips always give up first and it just spins and needs cutting off.

It's a good idea for simplifying manufacture (of the car) in the first place, and it's a cheaper way of doing it - but it's really a one shot deal and not intended for reuse.



Oh, and sort out that dented boot floor, it's affecting me more than it should

A bit of 2x4 aligned with the recess from underneath and a jack, and gentle hammer taps from inside the boot to straighten out the creases should do it
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Old 03-10-18, 12:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdg View Post
No probs, once you've seen a few you get to know

There's a few versions of the same idea around, either a nut or bolt with a captive plate, or a nut with a clippy thingy that located in the square hole - depends on supplier.

One thing they all share though is you rarely get the nuts/bolts with a used bar - because the plate is usually just tacked on.

You get a bit of rust on the threads, and the tacks or clips always give up first and it just spins and needs cutting off.

It's a good idea for simplifying manufacture (of the car) in the first place, and it's a cheaper way of doing it - but it's really a one shot deal and not intended for reuse.



Oh, and sort out that dented boot floor, it's affecting me more than it should

A bit of 2x4 aligned with the recess from underneath and a jack, and gentle hammer taps from inside the boot to straighten out the creases should do it
Aah than kyou for all the info...
I was under there thinking how the flipping heck does that work !

ps That dent, is when I bought a generator for 80....and the guy "helped" me in with it ...ie threw it into the back of the car... you could hear the loud clunk *dink* *denk* as it went in ! ....

Looking at the thickness of the plate where the towbar connects to... I wouldn't like to be pulling too much !

I was planning on using the towbar to move a moped 70kg, washing machine (about the same) etc
but also, as a project, to weld a trailer together..
..but apparently , you can't just do that anymore..
..it has to be stamped and road legal etc.

I may just give it a go, to learn how to do it...
(I'll be using an inverter stick welder (70) , which is really light, and verty easy to use, compared to the old buzz boxes)

Anywho, many thanks..
and now I can try and find , or make, a towbar !
what could possibly go wrong

Cheers
Liam
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Old 03-10-18, 03:24 PM   #6
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Just had a quick look online, you can buy a brand new towbar complete with nuts, bolts, washers, and instructions, all for under 85 pounds delivered. Is it worthwhile making one of your own?.

Roger.
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Old 03-10-18, 04:47 PM   #7
pdg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lammcl View Post
Aah than kyou for all the info...
I was under there thinking how the flipping heck does that work !

ps That dent, is when I bought a generator for 80....and the guy "helped" me in with it ...ie threw it into the back of the car... you could hear the loud clunk *dink* *denk* as it went in ! ....

Looking at the thickness of the plate where the towbar connects to... I wouldn't like to be pulling too much !

I was planning on using the towbar to move a moped 70kg, washing machine (about the same) etc
but also, as a project, to weld a trailer together..
..but apparently , you can't just do that anymore..
..it has to be stamped and road legal etc.

I may just give it a go, to learn how to do it...
(I'll be using an inverter stick welder (70) , which is really light, and verty easy to use, compared to the old buzz boxes)

Anywho, many thanks..
and now I can try and find , or make, a towbar !
what could possibly go wrong

Cheers
Liam
Hopefully you won't be towing much - the 106 is only rates for 400kg gross unbraked (650kg gross braked) - gross means it includes the trailer btw

You can still build your own trailer, but it has to pass an inspection and get plated. Doesn't cost too much for the test and it's not massively complex.

In honesty though, it's not really worth it for a small box or bike trailer - not long ago I picked up a 3*4 box trailer for free, and my neighbour bought a really quite nice bike trailer (that I've borrowed a few times) for 120. Taking cost of materials and time into account, plus test fee, it's cheaper and easier to buy used unless you want something special / unusual.


Oh, and what year is your 106?

There's an age (iirc 1997 or 1998) where a towbar must be type approved and plated to be used on the road, and MOT testers do check this (it should be a fail if it's unplated).


And yeah, inverter welders are just so much nicer to use - that's another thing I got for free - well, it cost me a lunch panini when I met the guy who gave it to me (it let the smoke out, so was going to be chucked - fixed and working now).
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Old 03-10-18, 09:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyroger View Post
Just had a quick look online, you can buy a brand new towbar complete with nuts, bolts, washers, and instructions, all for under 85 pounds delivered. Is it worthwhile making one of your own?.

Roger.
Fair point...
but I have some scrap tube lying about...
and I want to have a tinker
Cheers
Liam
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Old 03-10-18, 09:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyroger View Post
Just had a quick look online, you can buy a brand new towbar complete with nuts, bolts, washers, and instructions, all for under 85 pounds delivered. Is it worthwhile making one of your own?.

Roger.
Fair point...
but I have some scrap tube lying about...and I want to have a tinker
Maybe it's just an idea, that won't get off the ground...
I keep an eye out for 2nd hand ones...
Cheers
Liam
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Old 03-10-18, 09:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdg View Post
Hopefully you won't be towing much - the 106 is only rates for 400kg gross unbraked (650kg gross braked) - gross means it includes the trailer btw

You can still build your own trailer, but it has to pass an inspection and get plated. Doesn't cost too much for the test and it's not massively complex.

In honesty though, it's not really worth it for a small box or bike trailer - not long ago I picked up a 3*4 box trailer for free, and my neighbour bought a really quite nice bike trailer (that I've borrowed a few times) for 120. Taking cost of materials and time into account, plus test fee, it's cheaper and easier to buy used unless you want something special / unusual.


Oh, and what year is your 106?

There's an age (iirc 1997 or 1998) where a towbar must be type approved and plated to be used on the road, and MOT testers do check this (it should be a fail if it's unplated).


And yeah, inverter welders are just so much nicer to use - that's another thing I got for free - well, it cost me a lunch panini when I met the guy who gave it to me (it let the smoke out, so was going to be chucked - fixed and working now).
Yeah, you and rustyroger are both right regarding the diy towbar and trailer...
ehy reinvent the wheel

It was such a shame, as someone gave me a trailer for free...
but ! he had cut it all up , ready to dump at the tip , the day before he realised I wanted one..

Anywho, I keep an eye out... no rush to get either atm.
Cheers
Liam
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