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Old 03-05-18, 06:55 PM   #1
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Default Corrosion on inner wheel arches.

I thought my car was rust free until today, when I took it for an MOT, and it passed. Happy happy happy

Then the bad news, I got an advisory for both os and ns inner wheel arches corroded.

The problem is, the inner wheel arches look like they are covered is some rubberised corrugated material, and the rust is between the panels.


Any idea how I can tackle this would be a big help, what products do you recommend for treating rust.

And here is a pic to get the pulse racing, the sight of the old girl at the mercy of the dreaded MOT inspector, and you are thinking, please please please, let it pass.

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Last edited by JohnJ; 03-05-18 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 03-05-18, 07:27 PM   #2
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To be honest, unless it's surface (which it doesn't look) it's probably best to get it cut out and replaced.
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Old 03-05-18, 08:13 PM   #3
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To be honest, unless it's surface (which it doesn't look) it's probably best to get it cut out and replaced.
I suppose that is my only option to repair it properly. I can't really get at rust that is sandwiched between the boot of the car and inner wheel arch panel.

Is it expensive to have it cut out and welded?

Where the rust is, it does not matter how it looks, you can't see it unless you get right under the car.
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Old 04-05-18, 10:43 PM   #4
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I suppose that is my only option to repair it properly. I can't really get at rust that is sandwiched between the boot of the car and inner wheel arch panel.

Is it expensive to have it cut out and welded?

Where the rust is, it does not matter how it looks, you can't see it unless you get right under the car.
I don't know how much they charge tbh...

Thats exactly what mine looked like last year... the rust was nearly rubbing on the tyre...

(The wheel arch, is the one and the same, as the inner boot metal ...)

That thick spongy stuff , which covers a multitude of sins, is the sound proofing...
and it sets fire real easy !
Mine was on fire 6 times last week ! ..only small fires...but a water spray nearby to stop the flames in their tracks !

110_5340.jpg

110_5392.jpg

110_5439.jpg

110_5442.jpg

17042017-010-.jpg
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Last edited by lammcl; 04-05-18 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 04-05-18, 10:46 PM   #5
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just to show the inner and outer can be the one and same

110_5372.jpg

110_5377.jpg

110_5092-001.jpg

110_5344-001.jpg

110_5400-001.jpg

Lots of grinding...
this was me last year.. in the rain, yet again ! ...health and safety gone mad

17042017 - Sendvid

ps try and get a variable speed grinder and flap discs... I have mine on 1-2 for the finishing off
(just bought 10 80 grit flap discs from amazon last night for 12...as I'm sure they will come in handy.. )
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Last edited by lammcl; 04-05-18 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 05-05-18, 12:01 AM   #6
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just to show the inner and outer can be the one and same

Attachment 77634

Attachment 77642

Attachment 77650

Attachment 77658

Attachment 77666

Lots of grinding...
this was me last year.. in the rain, yet again ! ...health and safety gone mad

17042017 - Sendvid

ps try and get a variable speed grinder and flap discs... I have mine on 1-2 for the finishing off
(just bought 10 80 grit flap discs from amazon last night for 12...as I'm sure they will come in handy.. )
That's fantastic Liam, well done mate. I have exactly the same problem, rust between the boot panels and inner wheel panels. I would like to do it myself but I may have to get it done in the garage due to the cost of buying a disc grinder and welding equipment.
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Old 05-05-18, 12:21 AM   #7
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That's fantastic Liam, well done mate. I have exactly the same problem, rust between the boot panels and inner wheel panels. I would like to do it myself but I may have to get it done in the garage due to the cost of buying a disc grinder and welding equipment.
Thanks John
to be fair, I already had the welder and grinder for something else
and I thought I'd give it a go...
(My welder was 70 from cash converters , 2nd hand.
I see lidi were doing mig welders for 80,
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/t...-use-bad-idea/

and some are on ebay for 80.

It takes me a-g-e-s, to weld ....well to grind afterwards
but I am learning, and am getting quicker
& have made some crib sheets for next year.

eg, those mega strong welding magnets are useless, you end up wrestling with them half of the time. I've just ordered some smaller ones which'll keep the plate in place for the tack welds..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-Smal...53.m2749.l2649

ps, please let us know what they charge, for the welding
since maybe I have been nearly killing myself for nothing

All the best ..and great new about the MOT !
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Old 05-05-18, 12:10 PM   #8
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Thanks John
to be fair, I already had the welder and grinder for something else
and I thought I'd give it a go...
(My welder was 70 from cash converters , 2nd hand.
I see lidi were doing mig welders for 80,
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/t...-use-bad-idea/

and some are on ebay for 80.

It takes me a-g-e-s, to weld ....well to grind afterwards
but I am learning, and am getting quicker
& have made some crib sheets for next year.

eg, those mega strong welding magnets are useless, you end up wrestling with them half of the time. I've just ordered some smaller ones which'll keep the plate in place for the tack welds..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-Smal...53.m2749.l2649

ps, please let us know what they charge, for the welding
since maybe I have been nearly killing myself for nothing

All the best ..and great new about the MOT !
Thanks Liam, if you already have the gear, you might as well use it. I will let you know how much it costs. The worry is, will the garage do a proper job, or take the lazy route and only cover the rust that is visible.

I think I was lucky to get the MOT, I thought for a minute the back brakes were going to fail. They were just strong enough for a pass, but could or should be a lot better, that's when the MOT bloke told me they needed snugging up, and I agree with him, they definitely need further adjustment.

I think the cause of the problem is, I did not pump the brake before using the pressure bleeder kit. IMO based on trial and error, you have to make sure the pads and shoes are fully extended, so there is no travel or slack to take up after bleeding them IYSWIM.

I always go to a council depot for MOT, if I took it to a garage, I am pretty sure they would tell me the rust was a fail, as well as the back brakes. If you look at the pic of the rust under my car, I was standing next to the MOT bloke when I took that, he was very helpful. It was a real education watching how the MOT is done from start to finish. Mostly it is visual checking, the only physical checking is of the brakes at the end.
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