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What Oil Does My Car Take

13K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  MorrisAmanda 
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#1 ·
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#5 ·
I used to use Fuchs which met the same spec, but lately I've been able to source the INEO right cheap, so that's what I've been using.

The 107 enjoys life without a sock, sorry, FAP, shoved up it's anus, so that gets whatever synthetic 5w/30 is the cheapest. Cracking little engine.
 
#7 ·
i always thought you said the 1.6hdi failures were down to the wrong oil. ie carbon build up

so if fords specify something else completely then what the hell is correct

also the total website does show loads of substitute oils for the 1.6hdi
 
#9 ·
I've asked this question before - but it's gud to lurn fings.

How does the oil reduce the level of soot produced by the engine - and thereby protect the dpf - presumably the combustion process produces the same level of soot whatever the oil.

and for that matter what's the oil got to do with the dpf? I'd hope that the oil doesn't get into the combustion chamber.
 
#10 ·
Oil from the sump is getting splashed around the crankcase journals and sprayed up directly onto the underside of the pistons to lubricate the gudgeon pins. When the piston is at TDC, some of that oil is getting onto the bore. The lowest piston ring is a scraper ring, it's job being too scrape the excess oil off. Because of machine tolerances, wear, and the fact that piston rings have an expansion gap, some oil makes its way into the combustion chamber.

Using the correct oil means that excess causes less soot when it burns as part of normal combustion, less blockage, longer DPF life.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Changing engine oil

When changing engine oil do you use an engine flush? I make my own. I drain the old oil out. refit the sump plug. Dont replace the oil filter yet. Add one lire of diesel and top the rest up with engine oil. I use the car as normal for a couple of days. Then drain my mix when engine is cold. Its fascinating to see how much crap is in the oil. Replace with new sump plug. Change oil filter and top up with fresh oil.
 
#12 ·
First of all, Peugeot don't recommend any oil additives or flushes for consumer use, as stated in the handbook. Not a huge problem, but just for general reference for others.

Also, bearing in mind an average motor takes about 4.5 litres, you are suggesting using less than a quarter of that in oil, and then thinning it down with a solvent, before driving for a few DAYS?

Madness. The old workshop trick was to add half a litre of red to the oil that was about to be drained. Bearing in mind this is an HGV workshop, so looking at a quantity of 12 - 16 litres or so.

No way the mix you are suggesting is healthy for a road going car.

As well as the poor lubrication, all that gunk that you are loosening off is a potential gallery blocker, its just asking for oil starvation at some point.

The other thing is, if your motor is that bad at every oil change, you are either using the wrong oil, the wrong schedule, or have a bigger problem somewhere that you need to find.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Oil Flushing

Thankyou for your constructive criticism. All of the cars I have owned I have bought from a Salvage yard. Some cars come with History others do not. Some are fastidously maintained whilst others are neglected. Purely out of piece of mind once getting the vehicle I add one litre of diesel and top the rest up with engine oil (this is just me everyone is entitled to their own opinion). To date I have had no problems with engines/motor vehicles I have serviced whatsoever. As for your query on my servicing schedule and oil used. I use the correct oil and change it every 4k miles. I only do 8k miles a year.

Disclaimer. This is what I do to clean the internals of my engine and have been doing it this way for 25 years. There may be some members who read these posts and take it as GOSPEL. Whatever you do to your own vehicle you do so at your OWN RISK.
 
#14 ·
Best of luck to you.

Regardless of how lucky you have been, you are suggesting a method that is high risk, goes against manufacturer recommendations, and has potential to cause major problems and damage.

On a forum where where many members may not be mechanically inclined, and may take everything they read as gospel, it is poor form not to point out the potential hazards of something like that.

I still maintain that as a long term strategy, it is not the best idea I have ever seen. The oil to derv ratio is just too extreme to be considered a substitute for proper oil for driving under load.

Are you aware that the main causes of turbo failure are blockages leading to oil starvation or lubrication failure due to a faulty injector not atomising fuel properly, leading to oil dilution?

Both of which are effectively the same conditions you are intentionally creating by following your own advice.

That is before we even consider any accelerated engine wear, or the fact that you risk overheating due to the fact diesel is not effective as an engine coolant.

Regardless of your experiences, anyone changing oil with recommended grades, well within the service intervals (in your case, 3-4 times more often as required) should not need to consider what you are suggesting as a regular maintenance task.
 
#16 ·
In response



First of all I've been doing my cars this way for 25years and everyone is entitled to their opinion. The engine flush you buy from a Motor Factors has the same viscosity as the stuff I use. Manufacturer recommendations are suggestions and are not Gospel. If everybody followed all the manufacturers recommendations there wouldnt be any independant garages and you'd be paying through the nose. To date my method has not caused damage or major problems.

Turbo Failure.....The main causes of failure on diesels are driving around town with little boost for far too long, the variable vanes can jam with soot, giving the car a good workout once a week is a good idea. Clobbering the turbo with a hammer to free the vanes is not, an alternative is a cleaning kit which disolves carbon build up. If this fails strip the turbo and clean the vanes with brake cleaner. Blockages. mainly due to poor maintenance, incorrect grade of oil and service intervals. Try changing oil at 8 - 10K miles will prevent blockages in the oil turbo feed pipe. On expensive turbo's there are two roller bearings, but mass produced units use a brass centre bearing. There are several small and easily blocked oil feed holes - its important not to over oil the unit. To keep these oil feed holes clear, engine oil and filter must be renewed every 10k miles or earlier. Rebuilding your Turbo CHRA ( Centre Rotating Hub Assembly ) you can buy them off Ebay. CHRA's made by a company called Mellet are highly regarded CHRA's from Asia are not (Buy at your own risk).

I quite agree with you diesel is not an effective engine coolant. That is why I use Glycol to cool my engine. Its the winter stuff used all year round and comes already diluted.

I think you have the wrong end of the stick here. I dont put my mix in at every oil change. Only when I first purchase the car.

How can a faulty injector lead to lubricrication failure and oil dilution? The injector squirts fuel it has nothing to do with the oil pump which lubricates.
 
#15 ·
when i brought my missus car. the guy told me he had it serviced twice

i used a 5w30 oil and new filter. then drained it after 800 miles. then refilled with 10w40 oil and a new filter

i will change it every year regardless of cost.

there were no bits in the oil which is a good sign
 
#18 ·
The No Nonsense Reply

Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible

Do I need a flushing oil?

Unless there's something seriously wrong with your engine, like you've filled it with milk or shampoo, you really ought never to need a flushing oil. If you do decide to do an oil flush, there's two ways of doing it. You can either use a dedicated flushing oil, or a flushing additive in your existing oil. Either way it's wise to change the filter first so you have a clean one to collect all the gunk. (This typically means draining the oil or working fast). Once you have a new filter in place, and the flushing oil (or flushing solution) in there, run the engine at a fast idle for about 20 minutes. Finally, drain all this off (and marvel at the crap that comes out with it), replace the oil filter again, refill with a good synthetic oil and voila! Clean(er) engine. For the curious amongst you, looking in the oil filter that was attached when you did the flush will be an educational exercise in the sort of debris that used to be in your engine.
Of course, like most things nowadays, there's a condition attached when using flushing oils. In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. I have heard of engines with over 280,000km that worked fine, but when flushed, failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring (now really clean) contaminated the oil and ruined the rod bearings.

Using Diesel oil for flushing

A question came up some time ago about using diesel-rated oils to flush out petrol engines. The idea was that because of the higher detergent levels in diesel engine oil, it might be a good cleaner / flusher for a non-diesel engine. Well most of the diesel oil specification oils can be used in old petrol engines for cleaning, but you want to use a low specification oil to ensure that you do not over clean your engine and lose compression (for example). Generally speaking, an SAE 15W/40 diesel engine oil for about 500 miles might do the trick.


Read more: Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible
 
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