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Old 26-05-15, 10:28 AM   #1
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Default Timing advise please - Peugeot 307 RFN 2.0l petrol 2003 EW10

Hi all, just changed the timing belt BUT the old one broke while doing it before I could indicate all the marks so....
Without the belt I manually aligned crank to flange key position and like wise with exhaust and inlet camshafts (cam wheels) and locked with 5mm bolts.

Fitted new idler,tensioner,water pump and belt all torqued and tensioned correctly - rotated manually and doesn't appear there is obvious interference.

See photos below, thanks!

Do I need to confirm tdc on 1 or should I assume crankshaft key has taken care of this for me?

Do I need to remove cam covers to check compression stroke at tdc or would keyed cams have this covered?

Any other checks or recommendations?

Any help appreciated.

Last edited by puglug; 28-05-15 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 26-05-15, 12:23 PM   #2
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There are 2 versions of this engine some have a floating crank some use a woodruff key timing method is a little different best check what one you have before starting it up as 16 valves are at risk
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Old 26-05-15, 08:53 PM   #3
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Listen to reliable ,this guy knows his stuff,too scared to sort mine by the way gonna try Thursday evening .
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Old 26-05-15, 08:57 PM   #4
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O and I'm sure I read it was TDc 1 as I mad a mess of mine but yes double triple check, don't end up in the situation I'm in.
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Old 27-05-15, 01:57 AM   #5
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Ok, the only issue I think is if I have crank 180 deg off. (As there are two rotations of the crank for one rotation of the camshafts)
Is there a quick way to tell?

Just popped inlet valve cover off and looks like lobes are neutral on no.1 cylinder (lhs engine bay looking over bumper) when camshaft pins are aligned as would be expected.
I'm not sure where piston should be be relative to this though I would assume somewhere near tdc?
I'm sure it's really obvious when you've done it before
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Old 27-05-15, 04:30 AM   #6
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The ew10 rfn engine is a 2L petrol (103kw?) Peugeot variant, twin overhead camshafts. (intake in front and exhaust at rear)

The issue is being 100% sure about crank position. With cam bolts installed the locking pin of the crank lines up every second revolution. (Obviously without cam locks in place)

It's determining where the first (No.1) piston should be? when correctly timed when the cam and crank pins are inserted and locked.

Hope that makes sense?
Attached Thumbnails
ew10.jpg   camshaft-locking-pins.jpg   crankshaft-locking-pin.jpg  

Last edited by puglug; 30-05-15 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 28-05-15, 12:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reliable406 View Post
There are 2 versions of this engine some have a floating crank some use a woodruff key timing method is a little different best check what one you have before starting it up as 16 valves are at risk
Hi, I've loaded some photos, any chance they may help identifying engine and whether or not I'm out with crank by 180? thanks
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Old 28-05-15, 07:22 AM   #8
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Im not sure on your version but on the older GTI6 engine with that type of lower crank pulley the timing pin hole can move !!

I know it sounds crazy but it does I have seen it myself many people fit a 1 piece alloy pulley instead.

On the GTI6 engine the woodruff key points back so sits at 9 oclock and crank is NOT at top dead centre when timed

Check the rear of your engine block flywheel end for a hole to time it using the flywheel it is above the driveshaft as this one cant alter!
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Old 28-05-15, 10:23 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by reliable406 View Post
Im not sure on your version but on the older GTI6 engine with that type of lower crank pulley the timing pin hole can move !!

I know it sounds crazy but it does I have seen it myself many people fit a 1 piece alloy pulley instead.

On the GTI6 engine the woodruff key points back so sits at 9 oclock and crank is NOT at top dead centre when timed

Check the rear of your engine block flywheel end for a hole to time it using the flywheel it is above the driveshaft as this one cant alter!
Thank you you are right, when you remove the aux pulley it exposes the flange with the timing hole which can be moved to correct timing by loosening the 22mm bolt holding it on to crank. This seems like a method prone to failure, what's the logic?
It's really frustrating and unusual that cam and crank keys don't align with tdc.
Ok, so I've had a look there is a hole above gearbox exposing top of the torque converter. There are no apparent markings but does have a stamped code on it when rotating crank.
Guess I need to look on starter side of flywheel to see timing point?

I've just discovered (not sure if this is right but will investigate) though googling that 'Peugeot numbers their engine cylinders from the gearbox end, not the Cam belt, Timing Belt or Auxiliary/serpentine belt end.'

I also found this 'The firing order of all Peugeot 4 cylinder engines is the same; 1 3 4 2, #1 plug being next to the clutch end of the engine.'

Damn no wonder it hasn't been making sense, rise and fall of a screwdriver in the wrong cylinder has a lot to do with it, Arghhhhhh. Light bulb moment!

I going to remove both camshaft covers and rotated crank until piston 1 (gearbox end) is at the top of the stroke. The lobes with dual overhead cams have inlet and exhaust pointing at one another during the compression cycle (roughly two o'clock and 10 o'clock positions) according to youtube. (from one of the four stroke animation videos)
I should be able to also check firing order.
Thanks for your help, will let you know what I discover!
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Old 29-05-15, 09:15 AM   #10
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Does not matter if you used 1 or 4 as reference as they go up and down together but as I said it MAY not be timed at TDC I have never had to do 1 with a broken belt only ever belt swaps

No 1 is flywheel end

The hole you want is not on top of gearbox it is in rear of crankcase where the flywheels face is above long driveshaft it is about 20mm in diameter and a pin drops into that and a hole in the driveplate.

The larger one in this listing is the crank one Peuegot Citroen 1.8 2.0 Petrol Engine Cmashaft Flywheel Timing Lock Pin Tool Set | eBay
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