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Old 31-10-11, 09:25 PM   #1
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Default How To - Stop Your 107 Leaking

As we all know, the 107, c1 and Aygo triplets can be prone to cabin water leaks. Older cars seem worse, and the Aygo in particular can be very bad. I believe that this is because virtually every exterior piece of glass, lights etc are all different on the Aygo.

Some terminology:

Weatherstrips - often erroneously referred to as 'seals', they are the bits that go around opening apetures, such as tailgates, doors, etc. Many Japanese manufacturers refer to these as 'welts'. Pieces such as the trim at the bottom of a wind-down window are sometimes also referred to as weatherstrips.

Seals - usually found around fixed items, such as windscreens etc.

Some manufacturers use other terms, and individual components can often have some bizarre names (such as 'poser mouldings' on Nissans), but I will be using the terms weatherstrip and seal to mean as described above.

Some common points of water ingress, and potential cures:

1) Tailgate weatherstrip - water ingress through here is not terribly common, but can happen. Ensure the 'strip is undamaged, and seated firmly and evenly all around. So some small extent you can remove it and refit it correctly, but it contains a metal strip around the inside to help it keep its shape so if it is that bad a new one is your best bet.

2) Rear lights - quite common on older C1's and 107's. Underneath the rear light clusters is a small foam rubber doughnut seat that protects the light wiring and seals the hole that goes through into the bodywork. Provided the seal is still in reasonable condition, try smearing a thin film of sealant over each surface. New seals are now available on their own - they were previously only part of the entire light cluster - but you could probably fashion your own quite cheaply from any medium density foam type material.

3) High level brake lamp. Very common, and so obvious it is often overlooked. The seal is dreadful, but removal of the light, a thin film of sealant, and refitting usually cures it. While the light is off it is best to ensure the hose to the washer nozzle is still in place, as if this pops off it can also leak into the rear cabin.

4) The radio antenna can leak, especially on older cars. Later models seem to have a slightly different design to the base and don't seem so bad. Pop the interior light off the reveal the 10mm bolt head. Undo, and the aerial pops off from above. A thin film of sealant and refit of the antenna should cure this.

5) Door weatherstrips. As per the tailgate weatherstrip.

However, while the 'tailgate' advice is relevant, there may be a further problem for Aygo owners. This can be a very bad leak point on the Toyota, and some dealers try desperately and without success to cure these leaks. Things are so bad that Toyota have introduced a warranty bodge, involving the fitment of a self adhesive secondary seal, which itself does not always do the job and often falls off once it gets wet...

In late 2010 Toyota redesigned the profile of the sill and the door weatherstrips and this was supposed the cure this once and for all. It hasn't made a jot of difference. So much to Toyota's superior fit and finish, eh?

Follow the 'tailgate' advice, but if you own an Aygo with a troublesome leak that won't be cured then you may have to accept there is possibly a fundamental design flaw somewhere and there may be little that can be done. Whoever finds the definitive cure for this on the Aygo will be a much loved and wealthy person!

6) Windscreen base - this mainly affects Aygos, and the only cure is to have the screen professionally refitted.


7) Stick your head in the boot and look down. On the inside of the rear panel is a black plastic vent, possibly partially hidden by the carpet trim. On later cars this 'vent' is just a big hole the size of a cig packet. Ingress through this vent has occured in a few case, especially C1's for some reason. I have heard of dealers simply filling the slats of the vent with sealant. A neater solution would be to remove the vent entirely and to rivet or seal a plastic or alloy plate over the apeture.

8) Underneth the car on the spare wheel well are some black plastic bungs. If these are loose, poorly fitted or missing, then water will get in. New bungs, and/or a dose of sealant will cure this.

9) Aygos with speakers in the front door can also leak from around the speakers. I have never personally come across this, but logically I would remove the door card and look for any damage to the interior membrane, or any areas where it is poorly fitted, and look to repair or reseal it.

A word on sealant:

Silicon sealant excretes water as it cures, which can then become trapped against the panel or item you are sealing. Therefore, if using silicon sealant you must make sure that the panel is properly protected with paint, and any chips, scratches or corrosion are properly repaired beforehand or the sealant will case merry hell. Wurth silicon sealant is expensive, but nice to apply and can be peeled back in the future if required.

The bitumen type sealants are technically more appropriate, but are a real messy pain to use. It's your choice.

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Last edited by chopper1192; 31-10-11 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Jet ghost jelly ceiling
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Old 06-12-11, 09:31 AM   #2
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Default Light Seal

Hi Chopper
I have leaks on both sides of my Boot well. I am sure it is the light seals. I have contacted both Citreon and Peugot to get replacement seals, as you said you can get new improved seals. They both told me there systems only showed the light units and no sepperate seals.
Can you guide me onto where i can get the new seals.
I own a Citreon C1 that gets a daily mopping out in the boot. Please help.
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Old 19-12-11, 07:49 PM   #3
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It comes with the backplate, Peugeot part nos 6346 48 NS, 6346 41 OS.

Try removing the old ones and refitting with a smear of silicone on each mating face. Unless they're shredded that oughta do it.

And check your high level brake light - that one often goes undiagnosed.
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Old 19-12-11, 08:39 PM   #4
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Default Seal

Thanks Buddy. Ended up removing the crappy seal altogether and using a plastic cut plate in behing the hole. And a tonne of Tiger sealant. Poured all night and this morning. found one drop. LOL
Those seals are crap they actually soak up water. What a laugh.
Hopefully will last until its time to change.
Thanks for posting your great article above very useful.
Have a great christmas
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Old 17-10-12, 07:22 PM   #5
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Hi all,

Bit of a long shot but would anyone happen to know the part number for the plastic fixing insert which the (O/S) rear lighting cluster's lower 10mm bolt screws into? Someone has overtightened or cross-threaded the one on my C1 and it appears to be the source of a leak.

Even longer shot but is there a part number for the high level brake light seal / lens? The seal is cracked and dirty too.


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Old 19-10-12, 06:07 AM   #6
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PM Roc on that other site you visit.
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Old 19-10-12, 12:28 PM   #7
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Thanks Chopper. I have PM'd him .
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Old 01-02-13, 07:30 PM   #8
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Having followed the guidance above I was still unable to sort the leak in our 107. I was pretty convinced that it must be the tailgate weatherseal, so off I went to Howards of Yeovil with the intention of buying a new one.

I have to say they were excellent and very helpful. Two of the their staff even came out to look at the problem and advised me how the fix it without spending any money with them! A rather refreshing approach and much appreciated.

Having eyeballed the car, they said I needed to remove the bumper and seal the two vent flaps hidden behind the bumper and also use some gasket cement in the weatherseal.

What follows is a description of how to remove the bumper and seal the strange vent things

Firstly, remove the rear light clusters (ignore the fact that the pictures are in a slightly wrong order). Secondly, remove the following bolts and screws in the following manner:

1. Remove the two glass bump stops using the correct Torx driver
2. Remove the bolt inside the filler cap lid
3. Carefully clean the mud and muck from the two plastic fasteners holding the bottom of the bumper (one each side) – they are just inboard of the rear wheels

4. Use a screw driver to pull down the fastener as shown. It is vital that all muck has been removed so that they can move easily and that you don’t break them. They are rather fragile
5. Remove the ridiculous vertical fine thread plastic screws at the bumper join just above the wheel. You will need a Philips screw driver to do this. But again all the muck has to be cleaned away otherwise you will chew up the screwhead (like I did). The picture is looking up from the ground. You will break these pathetic little things out . The part number is P000006822W5 the part description is "4C17 fixing clip ".

6. The sides of the bumper (above the wheels) can now be popped off
7. The bumper is now being held in place by two push fit tangs at the back and the whole lot will come off if you yank it hard enough. Suggest that you check that you have remove all the bolts and fastener before pulling too hard.

You can now see the huge amount of muck that collects up the back and the two sources of trouble are shown by the arrows. Small wonder that there are water leaks in that area.

Once you have cleaned the area up, the vents can be removed by pushing up from the bottom and carefully lifting out. I found that the plastic/rubber type seal was wringing wet and very fragile. It felt more like a sponge and I broke one when trying to squeeze water out, so be very careful.

As can be seen the two vents have tangs to stop the very flimsy plastic flaps from opening out too far. The whole contraption is a design mess and probably only effective at speeds of Mach 2 and above……

A good solution would be to make two blanking plates and then blind rivet and seal them in place. However, as it was about to rain, I didn’t have time to make such plates but decided to seal the existing vents with sealant on both sides of the vent and refit.

After I had reassemble the bumper and lights, I then peeled the weatherseal off and applied gasket adhesive/sealer along the top and half way down the sides before pushing firmly back in place.

As it happened it didn’t actually rain so I am now waiting to see if the repairs have done the trick.........
Attached Thumbnails
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Last edited by AndrewC; 26-02-13 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 07-01-14, 09:25 PM   #9
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After a bit of advice and guidance please....

I have had my 107 from new, it's a 58 plate and my 3rd Peugeot. Last week I took it into my local dealership as it has been leaking.

3 leaks were found, high level brake unit, rear lights (both) and near side front door seals. After contacting Peugeot Customer Relations last week, I heard from them today and they are 'on this occasion' not going to offer me any money towards helping me fix this problem.

They mentioned the fact that I hadn't had it regularly serviced at their dealership and the fact that it's out of warranty.

Now, my mum, also a 107 driver (57 plate, 2nd owner) has the same problem as me...a leaky 107! My mums car has been a regular visitor to the garage over the last 12 months due to this problem and has recently had the high level brake unit replaced.

Now, this is obviously a problem for 107's, and they have advised me a 'modified seal' is required for my door seal. This to me means they recognise there is a fault & have altered their seals.

Has anyone tried, successfully or not, to claim some monies towards a repair for their car with similar problems? I (along with my mum)am really tempted to take this further as I strongly believe there is a fault & Peugeot need to recognise this.

Your thoughts please?

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Old 16-01-14, 01:55 PM   #10
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I've now joined the Forum but had a look at this thread as my step-daughter thought the boot was leaking on our 3 door 107 which is under 3 years old, it seems to be the offside light cluster grommet so I've made a crude gasket out of an ice cream carton lid and put sealant round the cutout in the steel panel, put the grommet on top of that (so the sealant isn't against the wet foam stuff) and replaced the cluster, was going to do some photos but it's flippin' freezing. Will keep you posted but thanks for all the advice. Can I stress that we love the car and this is the only problem we have ever had (touch wood) all the best
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