407 Android Tablet Multimedia Install

[chance2020]

This mornings update: if you're planning on doing one of these make sure your power supply is off a switched 12v supply not a permanent supply as even though it's only a 5v trickle charge @ 100mv it's still enough to flatten the car battery

[chance2020]

Here's a quick guide on installing a 7" tablet:

First find one that's going to fit with minimum fuss I went for the viewpad 7 because it's cheap (this was only an experiment to see if it could be done, so i didn't want to lay too much out) and it covers all the bases, easy access to front facing buttons, android 2.2 software, bluetooth, wifi, broadband via sim, and phone, also has external micro sd slot upto 32gb, and above all else it fits straight in.

1.Remove stereo, 2 t10 torx screws located in little holes on left and right of head unit (see pic 1), you don't have too remove it completely just slide it out to get to mfd panel screws (see pic 2)

2.Remove 2 bottom torx screws holding mfd facia (pic 2)

3.Mfd facia lifts out from bottom and pulls down slightly to release top clips (pic 3)

4. Unclip Mfd connector from back of Mfd (pic 4)

5. With facia completely removed see how your tablet sits (pic 5) as you can see the viewpad is pretty much a perfect fit.

Stage 2

[chance2020]

Stage 2

Options I looked at for making the new display were fiberglass mold of the original MFD fascia and cut out a new display or cut the original display out leaving the very edges intact to keep the profile and then cutting side fillets and bottom fillet out of the bits I'd got left and bonding it all with plastic weld. This turned out to be the easiest option for me (fiberglass started getting too messy)
Involves a bit of filling and sanding (pic 1) make sure you create an opening big enough to operate the buttons, before doing any cutting make a cardboard template of the fascia with the tablet sat in place to get your opening size and placement correct.

when you got the front shape right flip it over place the tablet in position on the back of the fascia then mark the rear of the fascia either side of the tablet on the left and right for 2 securing screws.
Remove the tablet and glue a couple inch and a quarter m4 bolts on your marks, I then cut a strap long enough to go across the back of the tablet with two holes to fit over bolts and nutted it on so your fascia and tablet are one unit, you can keep sitting it in position to get everything looking right.
The paint I had matched was an Alfa Romeo bumper colour gregio medio it's pretty close to the original dash colour.

Stage 3

[chance2020]

Stage 3

If you want to power the pad then your going to need a mini usb a 1.1 plug and solder power connections to pins 1 = 5v+ and pin 4 = 0v on the other end I cabbaged an old 5v car phone charger and hard wired it in behind the tablet in the dash using a switched live for charging.

Audio.
If your Aux connection aren't already activated this needs to be done with Peugeot planet, the phono connectors can be picked up off ebay or from Peugeot and plug into the rear of the head unit part B (see pic) thanks to bigjohnD for the pic part C in the pic is for the cd multichanger which if not fitted can also be used with a USB kit ?? other wise use a phono to 3.5mm headphone lead (as of writing this I'm using the phono method which gives very low audio both tablet and headunit have to be turned up full to hear, I'm waiting for a headphone amplifier to put inline I'll post if it works or not)

Pitfalls:
the only real pitfalls I've found so far with this install are you need to make the usb power connection and headphone out lead as low profile as possible as there's not much room between the bottom of the tablet and the stereo otherwise there's a bit of dremmeling on the top of the stereo needed to give clearance, it's also a good idea to fabricate some kind of power button/lever to operate the side mounted power switch on the tablet to shut it down at night.

[chance2020]

Benefits:

All the power of an in car computer without the fuss, full media audio and video player, Sat nav, car phone, internet, email, obdII ECU interface for car diagnostics and fault code reading/removal the list goes on. I can transfer music/video via wifi from my computer in the house to the car parked in street, skyped my dad from mcD's this morning still coming up with new uses and benefits all the time.
Hope this guide made some sort of sense it's my first attempt, any questions, advice or anything I've missed out let me know and I'll answer if I can.

[jmkent]

Good How-To there, and looks the business

[mcauley121]

Looks awesome!

What did you do with the cigarette lighter once you relocated the display?

[chance2020]

Originally Posted by mcauley121

Looks awesome!

What did you do with the cigarette lighter once you relocated the display?

Cheers I installed a 12v Aux socket in the compartment to the right of the steering wheel just in case I need to plug in my phone charger

[JazzJPH]

Now mate,

How did you go about making the fibre glass surround?

I'm looking at making a pillar pod for mine, was thinking of getting some styrofoam and shaping it, then fibre-glassing over it. Any pointers?

How much did the kit cost you, and the painting?

[chance2020]

Originally Posted by JazzJPH

Now mate,

How did you go about making the fibre glass surround?

I'm looking at making a pillar pod for mine, was thinking of getting some styrofoam and shaping it, then fibre-glassing over it. Any pointers?

How much did the kit cost you, and the painting?

I've never used foam to model before but i've heard it's good for larger builds custom speaker enclosures and dashboards, only downside to smaller stuff is it's quite fragile and you've got to be quite vigorous with the fiberglass matting and resin to get it into the corners and get the bubbles out. For fiberglass you need a sculptured model of what you want to make (in your case made out of foam) you then take a first impression mold by laying fiberglass mat (fine) over the sculpture on the outside and painting resin over the mat and build it up (leaving it to dry in between layers) till it's about 5mm thick.
When it's finally gone off you'll be left with a negative mold (like a jelly mold) you can then spray in a few coats of gel coat wait to dry then start laying in the fiberglass and resin again and start building up your positive mold which will be your finished gel coated pillar pod. It's time consuming!
Another method is building an enclosure out of light gauge MDF and using body filler to flesh it out into a nicer shape (building up and sanding back)
Or finally if no one makes one you can buy, find one that nearly fits and modify it, use a plastic build adhesive like innotek topfix that you can sand and shape.
Youtube is one of the best resources for how too's and pointers hope this helps