this is a write up of how a member on another peugeot forum changed the clutch on his 407 hdi 2.0, he has asked me to point out if you follow this guide you do so at your own risk.........
PART 1
Hi Trem, here is the DMF write-up....
Firstly, the symptoms of the fault were....
My wife came home from work one day (after a 25 mile mostly motorway journey) and asked me to listen to the noise she heard stopped at the motorway roundabout waiting to pull out, the noise was a loud rattle at the passenger's side with a vibration on the clutch pedal and a strange wobbly feeling on the clutch....when the clutch was pressed the noise went away.
The noise and vibration got worse so I stopped her using the car.
I know the best way to tackle this job is to put the car on a 2 post ramp, the subframe does not need to be removed on a 2 post ramp....I had access to a 4 post ramp which is difficult to remove a gearbox on.
I had to place wooden beams across the ramp to allow a trolley jack to be placed under the gearbox to slide the gearbox out on, this method can be used if you are doing the job in a garage without the use of the ramp.....you must safely jack up the car to a good working height and firmly support the car on axle stands...SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT.
Ok, here we go...
You will need ....
A good size trolley jack big enough to fit under the gearbox to support the gearbox, preferably with a large base that will fit to the underside of the gearbox, if you don't have a large base use a piece of 6x2 about 8 inches square under the gearbox.
Axle stands.
Scissor jack or bottle jack to fit under the sump to support the engine.
A set of Torx sockets, male and female, good quality ones.
Metric spanners.
Allen sockets.
35mm socket for undoing the driveshaft nuts.
Socket set up to 24mm.1/2 inch drive.
3/8 metric socket set.
Screwdrivers.
Torque wrench.
Solid, large, breaker bar.
A good chisel in case you need to change the ball joints (I did).
Drain plug socket for the gearbox (special size for Peugeot).
Can of WD40.
You will get a new clutch alignment tool with the new DMF/Clutch assembly so no need to get one.
You will also need the 2 nylock nuts that hold the steering rack to the subframe. New ones.
Take out the locking pins from the driveshaft nuts and remove the driveshaft nuts....they are VERY tight.(35mm socket).
Safely jack up the car and support on axle stands.
Under the bonnet.....
Disconnect the battery, be careful to follow correct procedure.
Disconnect and remove the air filter and airflow meter assembly.
Undo the reverse light switch wires.
Take off 3 nuts holding a metal bracket next to the cylinder head and lift it out the way (it gets in the way undoing the gearbox to engine bellhousing bolts).
Undo the earth wire.
Take a large flat blade screwdriver and pop off the gear linkage connectors, then undo the 3 nuts holding the gear linkage cable bracket from the gearbox and move it out the way (you can do this under the car if you like).
Take out the 3 starter motor bolts (8mm allen bolts).
Get a cable tie and tie back the clutch cylinder operating rod to stop it popping out the slave cylinder, tie it round the rubber boot.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder to the gearbox and tie it up out the way.
Remove the engine to gearbox bolts 16mm socket size.
Under the car...for now.
Remove the under tray.
Drain the gearbox oil.
Next remove the driveshafts.
Firstly, the left hand side...
Take off the wheel arch liner...3 torx screws and a couple of plastic clips.
Remove the brake caliper bolts and remove the caliper and pads, remove the caliper bracket and brake disc.
Using female torx bits, remove the 3 bottom ball joint bolts (the centre one is smaller than the other 2).
Remove the nut and bolt at the bottom of the suspension arm behind the brake disc.
Spray WD40 down the splines of the driveshaft and using a block of wood to protect the threads, knock the driveshaft backwards out of the hub.
Pull the hub assembly towards you and remove the driveshaft from the hub assembly....it's a fiddly job!! You may need to turn the steering.
Pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox and store.
Go round the other side and remove the wheel arch liner and the right hand driveshaft.....
Same torx bolts, but there are 2 bolts holding a bearing into a housing at the back of the engine, remove these then pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox and from the bearing housing, the right hand one is easier to remove.
Back under the car....
Remove the 2 bolts holding the lower engine steady bracket and remove it.
Take off the lower intercooler piping from the intercooler and turbo pipe....be careful, it will have a little oil in it. Perfectly normal.
Remove the subframe.....
Fistly, remove the black steel frame from the front of the subframe behind the bumper, there are 2 bolts at the front, one either side, and 3x13mm bolts at either side.
The next bit bit is a bit tricky if you don't want to drain the whole radiator.....
Take off the small torx bolts at either side holding the power steering pipes to the subframe.
Remove the 2 bolts at either side holding the aluminium front section of the subframe....now get a container to catch water from the radiator....
Undo the spring clip holding the bottom radiator hose on and free off the hose but don't take it off yet....
If you have an assistant, get them to pull off the lower radiator hose whilst you (quickly, if you don't want a flood of water) drop down the aluminium subframe section getting your assistant to quickly stuff the hose back onto the radiator.You can do this single handed ...I did...but better to have an assistant.
Now the main part of the subframe....
Take out the anti roll bar link rod holding nuts and remove the link rods from the subframe.
Remove the 4 anti roll bar holding bolts and let the anti roll bar sit on the subframe.
Take out the nuts holding the 2 long bolts holding the power steering rack to the subframe off (replace them with new ones when you replace the rack).
Take out the bolts at the back of the subframe....3 at either side with a bracket.
Support the subframe with blocks and a jack then remove the 2 large bolts holding the subframe in position at the front at either side.
Lower the subframe taking care to gently remove the steering rack from the subframe....the bolts are long ones.
Shift the subframe out the way.
Under the sump are torx screws holding the plastic cover over the sump, remove this plastic cover.
Take out the lower turbo pipe to allow better access to a bolt holding the gearbox to the engine, you need to take off a chunky metal bracket with 2x13mm bolts and a 13mm bolt holding a thin bracket to gain good access to the upper turbo pipe mounting bolts (2x10mm bolts)...watch out for the metal gasket.
Now remove the gearbox to engine mounting bolt and the rest of the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine.
We are now ready to undo the gearbox mounting and remove the gearbox.
Support the engine with a scissor jack under the engine sump.
Support the gearbox withe large trolley jack under the gearbox.
Place wooden blocks under the diff casing to stop the diff side of the gearbox dropping down too far.
Remove the gearbox mounting.
Lower the engine and gearbox a little until the gearbox can be wheeled away from the engine without obstruction.
Using a large screwdriver or pry bar...gently pry away the gearbox from the engine and carefully wheel the gearbox away from the engine with it stable on the trolley jack, prop up the diff case side so it is steady and can't drop off the jack.
PART 1
Hi Trem, here is the DMF write-up....
Firstly, the symptoms of the fault were....
My wife came home from work one day (after a 25 mile mostly motorway journey) and asked me to listen to the noise she heard stopped at the motorway roundabout waiting to pull out, the noise was a loud rattle at the passenger's side with a vibration on the clutch pedal and a strange wobbly feeling on the clutch....when the clutch was pressed the noise went away.
The noise and vibration got worse so I stopped her using the car.
I know the best way to tackle this job is to put the car on a 2 post ramp, the subframe does not need to be removed on a 2 post ramp....I had access to a 4 post ramp which is difficult to remove a gearbox on.
I had to place wooden beams across the ramp to allow a trolley jack to be placed under the gearbox to slide the gearbox out on, this method can be used if you are doing the job in a garage without the use of the ramp.....you must safely jack up the car to a good working height and firmly support the car on axle stands...SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT.
Ok, here we go...
You will need ....
A good size trolley jack big enough to fit under the gearbox to support the gearbox, preferably with a large base that will fit to the underside of the gearbox, if you don't have a large base use a piece of 6x2 about 8 inches square under the gearbox.
Axle stands.
Scissor jack or bottle jack to fit under the sump to support the engine.
A set of Torx sockets, male and female, good quality ones.
Metric spanners.
Allen sockets.
35mm socket for undoing the driveshaft nuts.
Socket set up to 24mm.1/2 inch drive.
3/8 metric socket set.
Screwdrivers.
Torque wrench.
Solid, large, breaker bar.
A good chisel in case you need to change the ball joints (I did).
Drain plug socket for the gearbox (special size for Peugeot).
Can of WD40.
You will get a new clutch alignment tool with the new DMF/Clutch assembly so no need to get one.
You will also need the 2 nylock nuts that hold the steering rack to the subframe. New ones.
Take out the locking pins from the driveshaft nuts and remove the driveshaft nuts....they are VERY tight.(35mm socket).
Safely jack up the car and support on axle stands.
Under the bonnet.....
Disconnect the battery, be careful to follow correct procedure.
Disconnect and remove the air filter and airflow meter assembly.
Undo the reverse light switch wires.
Take off 3 nuts holding a metal bracket next to the cylinder head and lift it out the way (it gets in the way undoing the gearbox to engine bellhousing bolts).
Undo the earth wire.
Take a large flat blade screwdriver and pop off the gear linkage connectors, then undo the 3 nuts holding the gear linkage cable bracket from the gearbox and move it out the way (you can do this under the car if you like).
Take out the 3 starter motor bolts (8mm allen bolts).
Get a cable tie and tie back the clutch cylinder operating rod to stop it popping out the slave cylinder, tie it round the rubber boot.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder to the gearbox and tie it up out the way.
Remove the engine to gearbox bolts 16mm socket size.
Under the car...for now.
Remove the under tray.
Drain the gearbox oil.
Next remove the driveshafts.
Firstly, the left hand side...
Take off the wheel arch liner...3 torx screws and a couple of plastic clips.
Remove the brake caliper bolts and remove the caliper and pads, remove the caliper bracket and brake disc.
Using female torx bits, remove the 3 bottom ball joint bolts (the centre one is smaller than the other 2).
Remove the nut and bolt at the bottom of the suspension arm behind the brake disc.
Spray WD40 down the splines of the driveshaft and using a block of wood to protect the threads, knock the driveshaft backwards out of the hub.
Pull the hub assembly towards you and remove the driveshaft from the hub assembly....it's a fiddly job!! You may need to turn the steering.
Pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox and store.
Go round the other side and remove the wheel arch liner and the right hand driveshaft.....
Same torx bolts, but there are 2 bolts holding a bearing into a housing at the back of the engine, remove these then pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox and from the bearing housing, the right hand one is easier to remove.
Back under the car....
Remove the 2 bolts holding the lower engine steady bracket and remove it.
Take off the lower intercooler piping from the intercooler and turbo pipe....be careful, it will have a little oil in it. Perfectly normal.
Remove the subframe.....
Fistly, remove the black steel frame from the front of the subframe behind the bumper, there are 2 bolts at the front, one either side, and 3x13mm bolts at either side.
The next bit bit is a bit tricky if you don't want to drain the whole radiator.....
Take off the small torx bolts at either side holding the power steering pipes to the subframe.
Remove the 2 bolts at either side holding the aluminium front section of the subframe....now get a container to catch water from the radiator....
Undo the spring clip holding the bottom radiator hose on and free off the hose but don't take it off yet....
If you have an assistant, get them to pull off the lower radiator hose whilst you (quickly, if you don't want a flood of water) drop down the aluminium subframe section getting your assistant to quickly stuff the hose back onto the radiator.You can do this single handed ...I did...but better to have an assistant.
Now the main part of the subframe....
Take out the anti roll bar link rod holding nuts and remove the link rods from the subframe.
Remove the 4 anti roll bar holding bolts and let the anti roll bar sit on the subframe.
Take out the nuts holding the 2 long bolts holding the power steering rack to the subframe off (replace them with new ones when you replace the rack).
Take out the bolts at the back of the subframe....3 at either side with a bracket.
Support the subframe with blocks and a jack then remove the 2 large bolts holding the subframe in position at the front at either side.
Lower the subframe taking care to gently remove the steering rack from the subframe....the bolts are long ones.
Shift the subframe out the way.
Under the sump are torx screws holding the plastic cover over the sump, remove this plastic cover.
Take out the lower turbo pipe to allow better access to a bolt holding the gearbox to the engine, you need to take off a chunky metal bracket with 2x13mm bolts and a 13mm bolt holding a thin bracket to gain good access to the upper turbo pipe mounting bolts (2x10mm bolts)...watch out for the metal gasket.
Now remove the gearbox to engine mounting bolt and the rest of the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine.
We are now ready to undo the gearbox mounting and remove the gearbox.
Support the engine with a scissor jack under the engine sump.
Support the gearbox withe large trolley jack under the gearbox.
Place wooden blocks under the diff casing to stop the diff side of the gearbox dropping down too far.
Remove the gearbox mounting.
Lower the engine and gearbox a little until the gearbox can be wheeled away from the engine without obstruction.
Using a large screwdriver or pry bar...gently pry away the gearbox from the engine and carefully wheel the gearbox away from the engine with it stable on the trolley jack, prop up the diff case side so it is steady and can't drop off the jack.