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Old 25-06-12, 07:42 AM   #1
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Default Is there a guide somewhere for glow plug change on a 407 2.0 HDi?

I see people are saying they should be changed with engine hot, due to less change of breaking in the head, but that surely would be too hot for me putting my hands down at the rear of the head..

How great risk is it really of snapping them in the head? It sounds like something I wouldn't like to do
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Old 25-06-12, 04:19 PM   #2
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A real good risk of breakage if done cold, there are threads on this subject search in the box top of this page for one. Its all been well documented, turn them slowly in and out, never out and fast.
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Old 26-06-12, 06:47 AM   #3
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Will give it a try tonight, but would have thought it was a nightmare to put my hands behind the engine when it's hot.

Is it sufficient to remove the breather pipe at the rear of the engine to gain enough access to get to them fairly easily?

And is it actually the tip of the plug that can break off inside the head then, and not usually the plug itself that breaks at the thicker area around the threads?
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Old 26-06-12, 07:23 AM   #4
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Father will reply im sure but here some info but more for when you get into trouble
Snapped Glow Plug at Tip
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Old 27-06-12, 09:03 PM   #5
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The glow plug change have now officially gone tits up.

I got the Haynes and thought I would do it as described there to gain some more space and comfort as I really found it was just too tight to change them without removing stuff. (At least as long as I've never done it before and don't have a feeling of how to do it).

So started off removing some stuff at the rear right of the engine.



Everything going quite ok until I was to undo the EGR cooler? elbow that was fastened by two 10mm nuts (M6 threads).

The first one broke the stud off straight at the flange of the elbow, and the other nut rounded off, so it ain't possible to get the elbow off, and it's not fastened properly anymore either, so I think engine out is only possibility to fix it



So that's a real fuckup. I'm now considering to get a cambelt kit with waterpump, and new headgasket also, and just take the whole engine out. I really hate working in tight spaces, on the 407 you actually need to sit on top of the front bumper/engine, really annoying.

I even think I might get a new headgasket, and get the valves and seats reground at the same time so I'm sure it will be a good engine for some time. I suppose the glow plugs also will snap inside the head, so I can just set my mind to head-off mode in the first place I guess.
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Old 02-07-12, 06:20 AM   #6
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Ok, started dismantling now.

Am I supposed to just unto the servo-pump return hose from the pump itself and the hose clamp on the other side of the front to get the whole front-section off?

I also took off the AC matrix as I already knew it was no gas in the system.

Will add some pics later on.
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Old 02-07-12, 03:21 PM   #7
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Really feel for you, what a complete bastard

I did mine a few months ago, I also had to sit on the engine and crap myself down in to the back and swap them by touch only I didn't attempt to take the EGR cooler out as I couldn't find all the bolts, really glad I didn't try after reading about your misfortunes

They are an absolute twat to do, you have to tape the small 7mm nuts on to the socket and fiddle for what seems like ages to get the heater wire back on the new plugs.

Good luck with the rebuild, clean out all your turbo VNT vains/vac pipes/sensors etc while you have access
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Old 03-07-12, 09:30 PM   #8
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I need some help identifying some parts, and also about how to dismantle some stuff.

First, what is this?


2nd, how are the diesel filter pump supposed to be removed, and also that green connection on the other hose, I have tried a bit but couldn't get it off, not keen on breaking it either like I did with the breather hose behind engine.


3rd, what is this sensor doing at the end of the gearbox?


Hope some of you can help me out on these...

This is how it looks by now, remaining stuff to disconnect is the diesel hoses as above, and the gearbox sensor and driveshafts. I got the exhaust clamp between cat. and flex pipe loosened, but it's not easy to open it enough to make the parts separate from each other anyway, any tricks there, I rather not take off the complete subframe... :/

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Old 05-07-12, 09:42 PM   #9
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Voila, engine finally out!



This far I got of 3 of the glow plugs. Need to remove EGR before I get out the last one (I don't have small enough tools to do it without removing it). The first plug (nearest cambelt) actually disintegrated when I tried to take off the small nut, so the internals of the plug came out.


Regarding the plug tip getting stuck in the head I didn't have any problems at all with that, the old plug (Bosch) have a chamfer/conical design on the tip and they came undone very easy, could turn them out with my fingers when first loosened.

The new Beru plugs though seem to be a straight design without the conical tip, so I guess they might get stuck next time I need to change the plugs

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Old 25-03-14, 05:55 PM   #10
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From this original post Is there a guide around that explains how to replace these on this engine?

Is it as difficult as people say it is?

And do you have to remove the EGR to get to the fourth heater plug or can it be done with the EGR in situ?

I plan to tackle these tomorrow and wouldn't mind as much info on the job before I do. I'm praying I don't screw thing up with this as I've only got a week to get the car running properly.

I know I'm supposed to have the engine hot before removing the plugs, to help free any carbon around the tips and stop them snapping but surely with where they located that's just a recipe for scalded hands????

Any prior advice would be appreciated.
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