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Old 21-03-12, 03:15 PM   #1
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Default Cooling fan not working

Driving home earlier we got caught up in traffic and I noticed the car was getting rather hot, the Air conditioning stopped working and the stop sign came up with "engine temperature too high" !

I couldn't stop as I was on a roundabout but when I got moving the Air con started working and the temp gauge went down and warning went off .

The cooling fan seems to have packed up but it turns freely, any ideas ?

Thanks
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Old 21-03-12, 03:44 PM   #2
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Have you removed DPF ? Remapped ecu?

I say this because it effects the cooling fan as it runs on same system as DPF.
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Old 21-03-12, 04:18 PM   #3
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No its all standard !

Fan is 348 from dealer plus fitting
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Old 21-03-12, 06:34 PM   #4
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Their is one on eBay for around 100
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Old 21-03-12, 07:10 PM   #5
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I had a rover with same problem took the fan apart re greased it worked fine after.
Apart from that scrap yard will have them.

Daft question you have checked your fuses?
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Old 21-03-12, 07:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nige65 View Post

Daft question you have checked your fuses?
I couldn't find any reference in the handbook but someone said no 1 in the engine bay fuse box (small yellow 20 a)
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Old 21-03-12, 07:34 PM   #7
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The 407 has whats called a chopper fan set up,
maxi fuse 1 shold be checked and also fuse 1.

tese are in the psf1(under bonnet fusebox)

starting point anyways.

large ones are maxi fuses(doubt thats your fault tho)

the chopper is the whole unit,basically a chopper unit has its own(sort of)ecu.
many suffered from the weather.
a new modified unit has been made.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-40...item4163daa1b3
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Old 21-03-12, 08:27 PM   #8
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Have just checked fuses and wiring and all seems ok, strangely aircon compressor still clicks in but air not cold
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Old 21-03-12, 08:55 PM   #9
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The aircon has built in safety you will hear it clicking in but has like a clutch if i can remember something to do with the oil or water thats in it stop it getting damaged i posted somewhere about this .

This a post i write last year might help,

Dont think so is your compressor kicking in when you turn a/c on if its not your low on gas or you have a leak.
Built in safety on compresor to stop it burning out no pressure as in gas it dont engage.

I had mine done but the short pipe to the compressor on mine had split think its common fault maybe check that first dont ask how without putting gas in im not sure.

First let's get this term 'top-up' out of the way. Although this expression is often used, I try to avoid using it as in common with any self respecting aircon technician, a top-up is never just a top-up.

To operate efficiently an AC system needs a specific quantity of refrigerant. For example a 1990 BMW 525 needs 1,925 grams of R12 whereas a 1999 Rover 200 uses only 560 grams of R134a plus or minus 25 grams. In other words for optimum operation this Rover needs somewhere between 535 grams and 595 grams, no more and no less.

This is perfectly typical of modern cars - if the system had only 510 grams or 620 grams it would work slightly less effectively and if the disparity were greater the efficiency would fall even more, indeed if it had too much refrigerant it would quickly get to the point of damage to the compressor.

Now to get back to the 'top-up', if the quantity of refrigerant is so crucial, how do I know how much refrigerant to add to the system to bring it to the correct charge? The short answer is I don't. Except in only exceptional cases for short term expedience would I consider just adding refrigerant to an existing system - the correct procedure which is followed in 99.9% of cases is to recover all residual refrigerant, evacuate the system to deep vacuum and recharge with the correct weight of refrigerant.

The evacuation to deep vacuum plays an important part in the recharge; it is also the lengthiest part of the recharge procedure. The object of this is to achieve such low pressures within the system that any moisture that has become adsorbed by the hygroscopic oil will boil away at ambient temperature and be drawn away by the vacuum pump (remember that water boils at lower temperatures as the pressure is reduced).

What happens in systems where there is no published recommended charge weight? For example where a system has been modified for any reason or a bespoke system made up. In these circumstances the AC technician must use whatever visual and tactile signs he can detect to get the system operating correctly. With conventional compressors this is not too difficult but now that Variable Displacement Compressors are so common in European cars it would be easy to get it wrong.

In the absence of any other indications (ask yourself the questions on the page above) a reasonable rule of thumb would be for a first recharge when the car is four years old and thereafter every three years. It is certainly cheaper (and more comfortable) to keep a good charge in the system rather than to repair a system that has been allowed to deteriorate with a depleted system.


Yes very occasionally. The biggest enemy of AC is moisture within the system with the refrigerant but don't confuse with the water that is produced by the system when it is working well and drips out under the car. The oil used in AC systems is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture if it gets the chance - just like the brake fluid in the braking system.. Obviously any free moisture floating around in the system will sooner or later get to the place where the cold is produced and will promptly freeze into a chunk of ice thus stopping the AC working. As the evaporator defrosts it will flood the windscreen with moisture and mist up the screen,then after a couple of minutes the chunk of ice will melt and the AC will resume working again which will quickly demist the screen and then that blessed bit of moisture will freeze up again and restart the cycle.

Every AC system has a container, which has a bag of desiccant in it to absorb any free moisture. Depending on the design of the system this container is either a receiver/dryer or an accumulator. These are intended to be replaced on a regular basis, rather like an oil filter but perhaps not so frequently.


If the system should develop a fault it is probably worth replacing this dryer when the fault is cleared but if there is no fault then replacing perhaps each alternate recharge would be prudent - that is, about every six years. This is because the desiccant is gradually absorbing moisture that has entered the system and after a time it reaches the limit of it's capacity - and it is important not to approach too close to that limit. A few models have driers placed in such inaccessable places that replacing the drier is quite a lengthy job - in these cases maybe it could last perhaps three recharges before being replaced, but don't forget it altogether.

If the drier is really quite old the desiccant can sometime break down and circulate with the refrigerant and eventually clog the expansion valve. This is quite common on the older Jaguars with the long horizontal receiver/drier and manifests itself by the lack of coldness out of the vents but the expansion valve glowing with hoar frost.


Some of the common driers are only just over 20 but a few specialised ones like some BMW receiver/dryers are more expensive. If you expect about 40 you won't be too far out and you may be happily surprised. A few models produced since about 1998 are incorporating this drier element into the construction of the condenser which has the advantage that when the condenser is replaced after say an accident that the drier is replaced as well (as it ought to be), but does create complications for routine drier replacement in the future - it could be that the manufacturers have used a much larger quantity of desiccant than usual, I do not know about this at present. Some of these which in theory have a replaceable desiccant sac are virtually impossible to change in practice. Some others of these integrated driers are completely impossible to change the dessicant and will necessitate a complete change of the whole condenser/receiver/drier assembly.

An even newer development is that there are cars now out which have a combined condenser/radiator assembly which will mean that in the event of a failure of either component, both will need replacement - that is a leaking water radiator will necessitate the recovery of the refrigerant, the replacement of the whole assembly and the recharging of the AC system.
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Old 21-03-12, 09:43 PM   #10
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Fan problem is common according to 407owners and new fans are uprated to fix this problem.
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