turbo has gone on 307 hdi 1.6 110...

[joey.davro]

hello all...

i broke down on the motorway a couple of weeks ago, AA took me to a specialist peugeot place in Bristol.....I have AA breakdown cover so they will pay up to 475 towards repairs and labour....

its a 307 hdi 1.6 110 FAP SE by the way....done 155,000 miles....

im not prepared to pile any more money into this car, its cost me a lot and i want a solution to replacing the turbo that will cost under 500 pounds....

the mechanic says it will cost aroun 7-800...at least....

but ive seen turbos on ebay at around 3-400.....can anyone make any suggestions at how to get the parts and labour for under 500....

much appreciated...

[bettyswollocks]

Go to a scrap yard and get a second hand one then get a monkey to fit it , but if your car has a FAP filter and there`s gaps in your service history or wrong oil used you better get a spare when you`re at the scrapyard

[tb205gti]

Have you checked vacuum for the Turbo selenoid? It is quite rare that the turbo just dies all of a sudden..

[joey.davro]

Originally Posted by tb205gti

Have you checked vacuum for the Turbo selenoid? It is quite rare that the turbo just dies all of a sudden..

The mechanic told me my model was notorious for the turbo needing replacement....

Is he trying to rip me??

What extra/other parts would i need to replace when changing the turbo? (new oil pump?- how much are they?) and how much should it cost in labour time?

Ive found the part for 400- so i have 100 to spend on labour and other parts.....

[tb205gti]

No he is partly right. There is a design flaw in the sump plug. Once you change the oil, you do not get all of it out, what is left behind is the "dirt". This dirty it carried around in the system once you fill it up with new oil. Once it is carried around, the little filter in the turbo gets clogged up - leaving no oil supply to the turbo. The result.. a dead turbo. Just replacing the turbo witout replacing the filter and the sump will not ure the problem, then you'll just have another dead turbo in 30.000km time..

[davidireland]

Originally Posted by joey.davro

hello all...

i broke down on the motorway a couple of weeks ago, AA took me to a specialist peugeot place in Bristol.....I have AA breakdown cover so they will pay up to 475 towards repairs and labour....

its a 307 hdi 1.6 110 FAP SE by the way....done 155,000 miles....

im not prepared to pile any more money into this car, its cost me a lot and i want a solution to replacing the turbo that will cost under 500 pounds....

the mechanic says it will cost aroun 7-800...at least....

but ive seen turbos on ebay at around 3-400.....can anyone make any suggestions at how to get the parts and labour for under 500....

much appreciated...

Can you give an outline of the service history?
If the turbo is gone then you WILL most likely need an engine.
The number one cause of this failure is bad service history topped up with wrong spec oil.

[risky1]

Originally Posted by tb205gti

No he is partly right. There is a design flaw in the sump plug. Once you change the oil, you do not get all of it out, what is left behind is the "dirt".

I'd say your on the right track...The last time i removed a sump on a 1.6 hdi engine i measured the distance from the base of the sump to the outlet and it was 14mm....
Say you work out the base of the sump as 200mm x 300mm x 14mm (14mm = depth of oil left in sump) then this works out around .84 of a litre of old oil left in the base of the sump...

If the capacity of the sump is 3.75 litres then .84 litre of old oil mixing with the new oil is'nt good practice.

This means that 22.5% of old oil is mixed with the other 77.5% of new oil added...
Sorry just felt like that mathematical outburst...
Ron.

[dpmiller]

and yet vacuum extraction isn't recommended either, as I recall.

[joey.davro]

So how do you manage to get all the dirt out??

could anyone list exactly what other parts are needed if i need to change the turbo on my car.....as i may try and get them myself for cheaper to cut down on costs....i need to know everything including what's used in a oil flush etc....

[joey.davro]

does this sound about right......

Remove the engine sump and check oil pump pick up strainer, oil pump, and all oil galleries for carbon contamination.

If heavy carbon deposits are identified fit new oil pump, oil pump pick up strainer and clean all oil galleries.


Fit a new oil feed pipe, oil feed connectors and oil drainpipes and hoses.



Remove the gauze filter that is in the new banjo bolt that secures pipe to block.

Remove oil cooler and oil filter assembly and clean thoroughly.


Remove intercooler, pipes and hoses remove residual oil.


Remove the vacuum pump and check for debris/carbon deposits and clean/replace as necessary.


Remove the Rocker Cover/Cam Box clean all carbon and sludge deposits from the cover, breather( where fitted) and associated valve gear.


Check the Particulate Filter and Cat are not blocked, replace if found to be heavily contaminated with oil from the failed turbo.


Clean the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve, induction manifold and all associated pipe work and ensure that the E.G.R. is functioning correctly.


A fully synthetic LOW SAPS 5w/30 oil must to be used.


Change engine oil after 200 miles and then every 3/ 5000 miles.


Ensure that the particulate filter is regenerated frequently and is not blocked. At least one 50 mile continuous journey every month.


Check the fuel injector gaskets are not damaged, replace as necessary.


Where turbo oil feed pipe bolts to engine block, blow through engine block to clear debris from the failed turbo and any carbon/sludge preferably using a cleaner before the oil pump is refitted.


Leave the oil feed pipe detached at the turbo end, crank the engine over without firing until clean oil is flowing from the pipe. It is convenient to catch the oil in a plastic bag or container. When clean oil is flowing connect the pipe to the turbo.


Check oil flow:


a) Fit turbo, leave oil return pipe disconnected.

b) Attach an extended oil return pipe and feed into a container.

c) Start engine, idle for 60 seconds and switch off engine.

d) Oil delivery should show at least 0.3 litres of oil.

e) Repeat test to confirm flow is correct.

f) Ensure during the test the engine is not run below minimum oil level

g) Change oil and filter after 20 miles.

In some instances even after carrying out these instructions not all of the carbon/ sludge deposits will have been removed resulting in further turbo failure. In these instances the turbo will NOT be covered by the warranty as the failure is not due to a faulty component but failure due to external factors.

The only 100% cure to prevent premature turbo failure is to fit a new engine.