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Old 21-03-11, 10:12 PM   #1
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Default anyone replaced cambelt/ timing belt before?

how hard is it to replace the timing belt and water pump on a hdi 1.6 110 (2005)?

anyone done it before?

Last edited by joey.davro; 22-03-11 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 22-03-11, 06:37 PM   #2
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this is a guide for an older 306....would the 307 (2005) be a similar job?

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Old 22-03-11, 07:17 PM   #3
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does this help at all
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2004 Iron Grey 136bhp 2.0 hdi .........Written off
2006 Icelandic Grey 136bhp 2.0HDI SE ......Written off
2006 Silver 136bhp 2.0hdi......Current car

Last edited by trem1; 26-03-11 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 22-03-11, 07:20 PM   #4
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or is this better
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2006 Silver 136bhp 2.0hdi......Current car

Last edited by trem1; 26-03-11 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 23-03-11, 11:24 PM   #5
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Hey Joey....
Did you find anybody in Ringwood that could do your belt and watr pump if you supplied the parts ?

Matt.
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Old 26-03-11, 02:46 PM   #6
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Yes it is very similar to this. Changed mine inc. water pump (307 1.4HDI) a couple of years ago.

A couple of important points though:

The crank and cam pulleys need to be locked with suitable sized drill bits, using the provided locking bolt holes, before you attempt to remove the cam belt. Failing to do so could cause damage to your engine when they move out of sync.

You will need a Torx bit to remove the engine mount and a trolley jack to support the engine when removing it.

I strongly recommend you get hold of a Haynes manual, I borrowed mine from the local library so it cost me nothing. I cannot remember all the little details but this would avoid missing anything important.

This is not a particularly difficult job as long as you have the right tools for the job.

Now changing the clutch, well that is a completely different matter.

Last edited by Gavin.M; 26-03-11 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 26-03-11, 03:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavin.M View Post
Yes it is very similar to this. Changed mine inc. water pump (307 1.4HDI) a couple of years ago.

A couple of important points though:

The crank and cam pulleys need to be locked with suitable sized drill bits, using the provided locking bolt holes, before you attempt to remove the cam belt. Failing to do so could cause damage to your engine when they move out of sync.

You will need a Torx bit to remove the engine mount and a trolley jack to support the engine when removing it.

I strongly recommend you get hold of a Haynes manual, I borrowed mine from the local library so it cost me nothing. I cannot remember all the little details but this would avoid missing anything important.

This is not a particularly difficult job as long as you have the right tools for the job.

Now changing the clutch, well that is a completely different matter.
A quick question, was your engine a bit wierd just before you changed the distribution kit (belt, etc)? Was your fuel consumption up and the engine feeling a bit off?
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Old 26-03-11, 04:00 PM   #8
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Yes it was, although this did not solve the problem.

The car gradually got worse until it would randomly lose power and even come to a halt, before starting again as though nothing had happened!

Finally I went to drive to work and the car just wouldn't start. Called out the AA who read the fault codes with their diagnostic computer and it turned out to be the cam sensor!

This tells the fuel system the speed of the engine to tell it when to inject diesel into the engine, it was failing and so when there was no signal it thinks the engine has stopped and so does not inject fuel and so it loses power and cuts out.

The replacement part cost me about 20 and was very simple to install (although I did need to loosen the cam belt cover to get it out).

If you can find some one close to you with planet I would ask them to check for any fault codes to identify the fault. Not sure how much they will charge but an auto electrical garage quoted me 45 to do this!

That said changing the belt was still a good idea as now I am sure that it will last me some years before it needs to be done again. I have had one go on me in a Ford Escort and ended up needing a whole new engine.

Last edited by Gavin.M; 26-03-11 at 05:34 PM. Reason: figured out how to sort it
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Old 26-03-11, 04:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavin.M View Post
Yes it was, although this did not solve the problem.

The car gradually got worse until it would randomly lose power and even come to a halt, before starting again as though nothing had happened!

Finally I went to drive to work and the car just wouldn't start. Called out the AA who read the fault codes with their diagnostic computer and it turned out to be the cam sensor!

This tells the fuel system the speed of the engine to tell it when to inject diesel into the engine, it was failing and so when there was no signal it thinks the engine has stopped and so does not inject fuel and so it loses power and cuts out.

The replacement part cost me about 20 and was very simple to install (although I did need to loosen the cam belt cover to get it out).

If you can find some one close to you with planet I would ask them to check for any fault codes to identify the fault. Not sure how much they will charge but an auto electrical garage quoted me 45 to do this!

That said changing the belt was still a good idea as now I am sure that it will last me some years before it needs to be done again. I have had one go on me in a Ford Escort and ended up needing a whole new engine.

P.S. if there are any admins watching this thread could you remove all but the latest of my duplicated replies, tried to post them last night but they didn't come up then, so I thought they had been lost in the ether, but now they have all suddenly appeared! Weird.
What was your code for the cam sensor problem? did it mention coherance??
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Old 26-03-11, 05:40 PM   #10
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My car is a 307 1.6 HDI SW and it has cut out on me a few times but only while driving, not while ideling at traffic lights, etc.

The damn thing is drinking diesel at the moment but the timing belt/distribution hasn't been changed since it left the factory in 2004 and I have 212,000 KM on the clock now so I'm hoping that €450 at my local dealer will get the car back on track.

My average consumption is 5.5 l per 100km at the moment, it used to be 4.2 to 4.5 l per 100km

Last edited by Hysteria; 26-03-11 at 05:42 PM.
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