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Old 20-06-14, 03:27 PM   #31
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Hi there,
I bought the resistors and put them across the wires coming from the console and ...whalla the airbag light was off. I moved the resistors to the plugs going into the airbags and ...whalla the airbag light was off again. As you said Windy the airbag has a problem on the right side. Left the resistor in place and clear the fault. All good, what now? Do I look for a new airbag or a used airbag?
I would first reconnect the airbag and check check and check again that the connectors are in correct ie you remove the yellow cap push connector into airbag and push in again to maker sure and then put the yellow clip in and push in again to make sure
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Old 08-08-16, 02:07 PM   #32
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Default resistor trick clarification please windy

Hi windy - i've read with great interest the old thread you contributed towards with the 2.2 ohm resistor trick on a 307 hdi airbag problem. I have a 2002 peugeot as a runabout with my holiday place in Spain. I had this issue (airbag light ) for about the past 3 months and not being here all the time has been hassle to try and resolve. I spent about 400 euros on tyres and various things to bring it up to speed before realising the airbag was such a problem to knock out. Therefore i don't want to splash another couple of 100 euros on a comms 2000 here (the car must be worth sub 500 quid at that age in the UK). So thought your solution would be perfect until i can bag a cheap comms from a UK breaker and bring it over. However / I bought 2 2.2 ohm resistors from maplin when i was in the UK and also bought a cheap pack of 20 for a couple of quid off amazon (smaller 0.6w rather than the more robust 2w ones from maplin). The light goes off for about 5 seconds with the resistors fitted and still comes back on again? Can I just clarify, you snip the two sensor wires for the left and right circuit plugs ging into the back of the comms and bridge those - therefore the plug stays in and stops the little metal protector spring being in place within the plugs? I tried this method first and the light stayed on. I then tried with the wires connected (just wrapped and taped) again and the resistors just stuck into the blue and brown plugs and this seemed to give the light out for a period result, suggesting this is the correct way and not have the wires disconnecting. I can't see the resistors being bridged directly across the two pins in each of the comms ports being correct as the wire switch will be activated then showing no plug is inserted and giving virtually no resistance across the pins - is this correct? I had also assumed that if i took both plugs out that is all the external sensors removed from having an imput into the comms so that would be a sledgehammer to crack a nut approach to solving the problem. What scenario would now still cause the light to be on if i'm doing your bridge trick correctly on both airbag inputs? Hope you can give me a couple of pointers what to do next as i want to ITV (spanish mot) it before the end of August as it will run out when i'm back in the UK. I'm just struggling a bit now the light is still on.

By the way I had the codes read when i had the other jobs done, and the Spanish mechanic was a bit guarded and said the code changed a couple times when he did a reading - my Spanish is pretty good, but it's still difficult as more technical stuff gets lost in translation. That was another reason why i'd hoped to temporarily knock all the sensors out of the equation if that was possible as a stop gap. Could it be I need the fault resetting after the resistors are in place? The comments suggest the light goes out for people without that being required, but can always go down that route.

Many thanks if you can offer any advice and some clarity on what plug/wire/resistor combo i actually use in those two ports.Hope this makes some sense - I can reply back if you're unsure what i'm getting at.

Gilesy
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Old 08-08-16, 07:16 PM   #33
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On my car i just removed the two plugs from the back of the comm unit and fitted the resistor legs into the the harness plugs and taped them up.
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Old 08-08-16, 09:19 PM   #34
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On my car i just removed the two plugs from the back of the comm unit and fitted the resistor legs into the the harness plugs and taped them up.
Problem with this is you have disabled a safety feature and in the even of an accident your insurance could be void for not telling them of such a change
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Old 08-08-16, 09:24 PM   #35
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Hi windy - i've read with great interest the old thread you contributed towards with the 2.2 ohm resistor trick on a 307 hdi airbag problem. I have a 2002 peugeot as a runabout with my holiday place in Spain. I had this issue (airbag light ) for about the past 3 months and not being here all the time has been hassle to try and resolve. I spent about 400 euros on tyres and various things to bring it up to speed before realising the airbag was such a problem to knock out. Therefore i don't want to splash another couple of 100 euros on a comms 2000 here (the car must be worth sub 500 quid at that age in the UK). So thought your solution would be perfect until i can bag a cheap comms from a UK breaker and bring it over. However / I bought 2 2.2 ohm resistors from maplin when i was in the UK and also bought a cheap pack of 20 for a couple of quid off amazon (smaller 0.6w rather than the more robust 2w ones from maplin). The light goes off for about 5 seconds with the resistors fitted and still comes back on again? Can I just clarify, you snip the two sensor wires for the left and right circuit plugs ging into the back of the comms and bridge those - therefore the plug stays in and stops the little metal protector spring being in place within the plugs? I tried this method first and the light stayed on. I then tried with the wires connected (just wrapped and taped) again and the resistors just stuck into the blue and brown plugs and this seemed to give the light out for a period result, suggesting this is the correct way and not have the wires disconnecting. I can't see the resistors being bridged directly across the two pins in each of the comms ports being correct as the wire switch will be activated then showing no plug is inserted and giving virtually no resistance across the pins - is this correct? I had also assumed that if i took both plugs out that is all the external sensors removed from having an imput into the comms so that would be a sledgehammer to crack a nut approach to solving the problem. What scenario would now still cause the light to be on if i'm doing your bridge trick correctly on both airbag inputs? Hope you can give me a couple of pointers what to do next as i want to ITV (spanish mot) it before the end of August as it will run out when i'm back in the UK. I'm just struggling a bit now the light is still on.

By the way I had the codes read when i had the other jobs done, and the Spanish mechanic was a bit guarded and said the code changed a couple times when he did a reading - my Spanish is pretty good, but it's still difficult as more technical stuff gets lost in translation. That was another reason why i'd hoped to temporarily knock all the sensors out of the equation if that was possible as a stop gap. Could it be I need the fault resetting after the resistors are in place? The comments suggest the light goes out for people without that being required, but can always go down that route.

Many thanks if you can offer any advice and some clarity on what plug/wire/resistor combo i actually use in those two ports.Hope this makes some sense - I can reply back if you're unsure what i'm getting at.

Gilesy
The resistor goes on the wire when the plugs are disconnected, the metal shirting pin is to stop an accidental discharge of static setting the airbag off and you leaving wires cut and plugged in like that is very dangerous as what would happen if one of them got a current sent down it when you are doing 70mph and airbag goes off.. well I feel sorry for the other card involved
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Old 08-08-16, 09:27 PM   #36
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Google my phone number if you want your comms unit fixing 07599587119
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Old 09-08-16, 10:00 AM   #37
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The resistor goes on the wire when the plugs are disconnected, the metal shirting pin is to stop an accidental discharge of static setting the airbag off and you leaving wires cut and plugged in like that is very dangerous as what would happen if one of them got a current sent down it when you are doing 70mph and airbag goes off.. well I feel sorry for the other card involved
Thanks for all the responses to this. I understand the purpose of the shirting pin protection to stop an erroneous current blowing the bag etc. (covered already in this thread). The car really is just for buzzing about locally and covers very few km in a year, but still have no intention of leaving it in a dangerous state beyond just a stop-gap measure until I can sort the comms.

So can I just clarify one last time - the wires should not have been cut. They are currently bound back up and tightly wound with insulation tape - so they should be pretty safe again as things stand anyway. The resistors actually go into a bridge of the two pins of the unplugged and now loose brown and blue plugs, which in turn do not then go back into the two comms sockets/holes? That is not what I've done. I assumed the plugs must be in place and the bridge take place across the connected plugs when they sit in place at the back of the comms.

I have lots on today with a house survey, but will give this more attention when I get a chance. Thanks again for all the input. (trustme - we're in Lancashire when in the UK but my wife has lots of relatives out your way (born in Shipley) so we travel over there quite often. It is something I will consider in case i draw a blank at the breakers close to me (bringing the faulty comms over for repair - as we leave the car in a garage and do the airport taxi when we return, so that would be a possibility). T

Thanks again.
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Old 11-08-16, 11:43 AM   #38
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Hello - ok for an update, I still can't get the light to go out. Pretty sure I've done the bridging correctly now and even with both plugs bridged, the light will be out for as long as 8 seconds and then come back on again. I've now tried removing the driver airbag and done the continuity test with my multimeter and am pretty sure myself the Comms tests fine as per the method on this forum (which might therefore tie in with this not working). I'm wondering if the mechanic knew it was a comms issue far more often than not so he suggested that was the issue when perhaps it wasn't? The last thing he said about fault codes was it moving from the drivers to the passenger side when he tested it a second time - all seems strange.

So any more suggestions would again be greatly appreciated - I guessed this method would override what the box below the handbrake outputs. Is that not the case and only works for faults within the comms? Would a similar resistor bridge work on the airbag unit below the handbrake and if so is it still 2.2 ohms? I've reconnected the plug wires with terminal boxes and taped them and plugged them back - so would now look to elsewhere to try another inexpensive temporary fix if anyone could suggest one.
Thanks again for any input.
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Old 12-08-16, 02:16 PM   #39
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If possible get it read on planet. To get full code. Some generic readers can confuse drivers and passenger side as set up for lhd. Maybe worth checking seat connections and passenger disable switch as these can give problems

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Old 12-08-16, 05:03 PM   #40
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Hi,

The passenger air bag switch was giving me the airbag fault recently. I took it apart and cleaned it with contact cleaner, it's been fine since.
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