307 - Squeak...Is this the DMF?

[Bod]

Had a squeak on the car since I got it in November.
Wasn't really too noticable then.
Engine idling > fine. Tap the accelerator, engine emits a short squeak.
Driving along > clutch in....short squeak.
Clutch back out...short squeak.
Turning engine off....squeaking as its stopping.

Well it's been getting a bit louder and louder since.

Took it into the garage last week to find it and some other noises.
They advised the auxilliary belt was worn and the tensioner was stiff...which could have been contributing to it.

I was convinced it was the problem as it goes away on engine speed / load.

Well, had the belt, tensioner, idler done today at a cost of £150 quid....It's still there.

I can be sat in neutral, it squeaks a little (constantly) when idling.
Same whether clutch is in or out.
Does it during gear changes (at the point of disengage / engagement with gearbox / biting point).

When setting off *sometimes*, it's juddery...not all the time.

When driving along, I rarely use 5th in a 30 zone unless it's completely flat, or I'm at 30 or above or else it judders / labours...I have to go into 4th for higher revs. (Not sure if this is connected).


Garage said they think its the DMF, as it emits a noise on startup / shutdown. I just hear squeaks, but when its idling, Ive just heard a slight grating noise.

The thing is, I thought that with the clutch in, it shouldn't emit a noise?

It still squeaks no matter what I do now...and disappears under load / higher revs.

[jmkent]

When my DMF was gone, it would rattle and sound like a bag of bolts. Put the clutch in, and all would stop. Similarly, give it 50rpm higher than tickover (i.e. with air con on) and it would stop too. Didn't have any noises whilst driving either. When switching off, it did rattle to a stop though. Mine was definitely always a rattle and not a squeak.

Not sure if that helps or not

[Bod]

Hmmm there's no rattle per se, nor bag of bolts sounds.

No noises while driving, if the revs are constant.
I think I can hear a slight short squeak if I give the accelerator extra revs or come off it quickly.

There's also a slight grinding noise I can hear under the bonnet on tickover (along with the squeak)...Sounds like a metallic scraping noise.

[sterion75]

My dmf had an embarrasingly loud sqeaky rattly sort of noise on starup and shutdown. In enclosed spaces it was very loud but not from inside the car,407. It went quiet with pedal depressed and sometimes sqeaked at idle. Would squeak on gearchanging,too, when releasing pedal.

[Newspaperman]

Ive got a squeak too.
Sounds like a budgies chirping under the bonnet can happen anytime I had my cambelt done thinking it might be a pully but still evident its not engine related as it happens at 30mph or 70mph if it was engine related the tone of it should change but it doesnt. Ive just had my track rods and track rod ends done as I had wheel vibration at speeds above 70mph. Still the squeak is there, I also have a bad rattle over bumps which I think is my offside drop link going to change that today if I can brave this cold weather. The droplinks could squeak if worn badly enough, keep you updated but try that if you think the links are worn they are only £5.95 off fleabay and an easy job. If its not cured my rattle and squeak its the balljoints next.

[offline]

Hi Bod, I think I too have this squeak. As newspaperman says its "like budgies": a constant high-pitched "chirp-chirp-chirp-chirp" under the bonnet. Is yours a 2.0hdi?

I have been convinced that its the auxiliary belt, as turning the air conditioner on affects the tone. I dont think its related to the DMF (touch wood!) - I had my local garage have a look at mine a while back and they said it felt like a healthy car.

Another possiblity might be engine mounts, I know that mine are knackered and make some horrible noises if I pull away in too high a gear.

Mine's been doing it since I bought it last May with 91k on the clock - 8 months and 9000 miles later it still does.. IMO if it were anything terminal it would have revealed itself by now. Hope this helps.

[Bod]

Thanks for the replies.

It's definitely not the droplinks...had those done a few weeks ago (along with the anti rollbar bushes).

Front suspension bearings have just been changed too.

Auxilliary belt has been done, as has the timing belt (or whatever it is...the biggun).
It's just had an engine rebuild (I bought it from an Engine Centre...they did the work on it when it went bang and the warranty company refused to pay, so they took the car as payment....and sold it on).
It's definitely not suspension related anyway, it happens when stationary.

I'm going to take it to another garage on monday, just tell them it's got a squeak, show them...and see what they say.

[wal750]

Bod, hate to be the bearer of bad news but this is exactly how my 2.0 HDI 110 was in the early stages of DMF failure. Did another 3000 miles like this before I actually replaced with solid, this is when it got to the bag of bolts stage. Trouble is if the flywheel lets go it can shag the crank sensor and starter motor too. I'm afraid it was also a long job and not one I'd want to do again in a hurry. Parts alone were over 300 pound but I had some silly quotes at 800/900 pounds. Ouch

[john_h]

i have to say my petrol 1.6 307 did this aswell... a guy, at my old workplace, told me its the gauze on the exhaust between mid and front parts that will need some copper grease.

someone told me on here aswell.

never got round to doing it, rolled it and wrote it off instead

[JazzJPH]

Bod.

When I was reading your post, I first thought the auxiliary belt/tensioners, and then you got them done!

Then... When you said about the judder, that told me exactly. In the case of my 307 2.0 HDI 110 - the clutch was a little squeaky, in my case mainly when pressing/depressing the clutch. Then after a few months (1k miles) the juddering came in. Another 2-4k miles later the juddering was getting quite heavy. In order to avoid the judder I'd put more revs on when pulling away (doesn't mean it's healthy, just bypasses the judder stage).

Anyway, I went for a solid conversion kit. Got the Valeo kit from my local motor factors for £190 and got it fitted for £120. The place I got it fitted at have gone bust, as that is a mint price.

Anyway, if you know any half decent garages (not main dealer, and not the "Bosch approved blah blah" ones) that can overhaul a clutch, ask them for their best price. If you get a local mechanic, he'll probably charge you under £200. For £390 you'll be beating any price the rest of the members can advise you.

But just wait and see what everyone else thinks when they read this, see if it's good advice before you embark on the journey