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Old 02-02-2012, 03:29 PM   #1
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Default 307 Antipollution fault - No power

Hi guys my 307 has been nothing but bother since i bought it, its 2002 2.0 HDI D turbo with 115k on the clock. Firstly I removed the DPF which cleared the fault for like an hour and then it returned. The fault readings on PP2000 at the minute are:
Engine ECU:
Permanent Fault. Turbo Pressure. Short circuit to earth or circuit open.
Permanent Fault. Pre/Post heating relay circuit. Relay Stuck.

ABS or ESP ECU:
Permanent Fault. Rear right wheel speed sensor. Coherance.
Intermittent Fault. Communication with the engine management ECU fault. Incorrect value recieved.

The car is in limp mode. Im guessing the speed sensor will need cleaned on the rear right wheel. Anybody have any ideas as to the reason for low boost?
I need to get this bloody car sorted!!

Thanks
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:13 PM   #2
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Default intercooler pipes

I had same fault on mine - it turned out to be a pipe clip / jubilee clip off at the rear of the engine - on the intercooler pipework - i could not get to it by hand - only had to use long screwdrivers and a 7mm socket on a really long extension bar - took abou 15mins to get it on right and tight. all ok now

hope this may help
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:26 PM   #3
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It could be that, im yet to check all the clips. Il have to get under her and check that tomorrow. Other than that i was thinking it could be the turbo solenoid valve, any opinions?
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:13 PM   #4
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Default Check the obvious :)

In my experience of peugeot HDI engines - (which is not that extensive - to be honest) is it will be either electrical, something loose or not fitted quite right, these cars seem to suffer from electrical issues rather than severe mechanical failure - now due to the complex sensing and control of these engines - one slight thing out can send you off on a wild goose chase and potentially head you down a road costly part buying... when it could just be something daft.

cheers stuart
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:56 PM   #5
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when you clean your brake sensor make sure that the air gap is as small as possible,manuals say about 1.5mm but i've found this to be wrong,just make the gap as small as poss but obviously without the sensor rubbing
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:15 PM   #6
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Thanks guys. I just wanted to ask more experienced 307 owners opinion like you said to avoid the expensive trial and error. Is there any other obvious things to check?
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:21 PM   #7
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Default

well with the two engine ecu ones, it says to me glow plugs and turbo sensor.

the brake one is that the wheel named will need where the sensor sits, cleaning and resitting properly as matt has said.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:28 PM   #8
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where is the turbo sensor located?
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd070707 View Post
where is the turbo sensor located?
I've had all the same errors myself. As the others have already said clean wheel sensor and shim it with a thin washer so it's about 1mm from the magnetic ring it faces.
Remove the road wheel and you can access the bolt for the sensor through one of the road wheel bolt holes, using a fairly long 5mm allen key. If the allen key doesn't seem to fit correctly it is likely due to a build up of dirt/corrosion, just give it a firm tap with a hammer to drive it into the bolt head. Clean the sensor and the magnetic ring it faces (rear of wheel bearing) with brake cleaner or similar and a rag.

This may fix the incorrect value received error too though I still have this error occasionally, it seems to be triggered every time the car goes into limp mode (due to low turbo pressure).

Turbo solenoid valve is on the front of the engine (opposite radiator) just left of the middle and down right near the bottom. There are four of the same valves on the front of the engine, the turbo one is the bottom-most one.
I found a dodgy connection on mine and I think it's what triggered the same error as you are seeing (Turbo pressure short circuit to earth or circuit open) though I haven't been able to confirm this yet.

Permanent Fault. Pre/Post heating relay circuit. Relay Stuck.
I also had this, changing the glow plugs fixed it. Easy enough to do but be very careful, apparently the tips of the plugs are prone to snapping.
Advice I have read and followed successfully was to squirt wd40 or diesel into the well around each plug, leave for 30mins, undo each plug 1/2 to 1 turn and leave another 10mins or so then slowly and carefully undo each plug.
You may wish to apply a little copper grease to the shaft and threads before inserting the new ones.

Hope this helps

Last edited by dackjaniels; 02-03-2012 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dackjaniels View Post
Permanent Fault. Pre/Post heating relay circuit. Relay Stuck.
I also had this, changing the glow plugs fixed it.
Same here.
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