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Old 09-01-16, 08:14 PM   #1
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Default THP oil feed pipe

hello,

my trusty 2008 207 XS sport (THP150 engine) has developed an apparently regular fault in that the oil feed pipe to the turbo has started seeping oil at the crimped union to the banjo. seems to have failed bang in the 40-50k miles window as its about to roll over to 45k miles. good service history, recently serviced it myself.

i have bought all the replacement parts, including crush washers, new banjo bolts and turbo to cat gasket and intend to do it either next weekend or the weekend after. in the meantime ive put a bit of sealant on the joint to try and stem the leak and check the oil every few days. its not leaking a lot but obviously dont want the turbo short of oil in the long term.

my question therefore is does anyone have any tips or suggestions to help it go smoothly? i am planning to budget a weekend as theres a lot of heat shields to remove and such. the only pointer ive read about is that once the new pipe is fitted, the engine should be cranked with the coils unplugged to fill the pipe with oil before starting to prevent the turbo running dry. what about removing the mesh filter inside the banjo to prevent it clogging? is this correct? thanks in advance
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Old 11-01-17, 07:47 PM   #2
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Hi there,

How did your repair go?
I came across your thread through Google and I'm currently having the same issue. Also a 207 THP with a leaky banjo bolt.
At least, I think it's that.
The oil line itself is dry, but the 'base' of the bolt (where it goes into the block) is wet when the engine just ran.
I really hope my problem is solved with some new crush washers and perhaps a new banjo bolt. Replacing the entire oil line seems to be a b*tch and having it done costs an arm, a leg, and your firstborn...

Hope to hear your experience and findings in this.

This is the bolt, just after a 20km drive:


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Old 11-01-17, 08:05 PM   #3
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yup definately sounds like the line, mine was seeping at both ends, at the block as well as on top of the turbo. new washers wont do anything unless the line is already loose, which ive never heard of to be honest..

repair went fine really, i did it over a weekend and it took pretty much the whole weekend, about 10 hours in total which isnt too bad considering i was following some images online. getting all the 10mm bolts for the heatshield is the most challenging part, youll have to tape tools together to get the appropiate access. use a torque wrench! the last thing you want is to over torque anything and make sure all mating surfaces are clean. this is, of course, assuming you want to attempt it yourself. paying a main dealer isnt going to be comfortable....
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Old 11-01-17, 08:17 PM   #4
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Once I have some free time during daytime (damn short days), I'll have a good look at the situation.

Right now it seems like there's no washer at the bottom end...
The line itself is completely dry. Usually the 'o-ring' (in that line) gives way which makes the line fail, but that part seems just fine.
Haven't checked the bottom end of the line yet btw.

I know I'm trying to convince myself it's not so bad , but since I'm no mechanic, this would be an unwelcome surprise from an otherwise wonderful vehicle.
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Old 11-01-17, 08:49 PM   #5
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it might look that way but the copper washer is the same size as the upper one, so considering the diameter is less than the banjo fitting, you'll be unlikely to see it anyway.

yes its usually the crimping between the banjo fitting and the line that begins to fail, but the oil which seeps out can take a very strange path due to air flow and geometries so that it looks like its coming from somewhere else, so my bet is still on the line at the moment. you could always try a new banjo bolt and washers,theyre not very expensive then you can rule out those and if you end up replacing the line, youve got some banjo bolts (new washers are a given after each install)

worth having a look underneath too, if the bottom of the line is leaking (which is less common) then oil will collect down the front of the engine and drip onto the gearbox mount and exhaust system. if the section of your exhaust around the flexi is black it could signify oil seeping down onto it but you cant really tell until you take all the heat shields off.
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Old 12-01-17, 06:52 AM   #6
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With a cold engine, can you simply 'unscrew' the whole bolt, take it out, and put another (new one with new washers) in?

I read already that you should take great care not to force the line, and to keep it steady.

Also read stories about broken bolts... which is a nightmare on its own I can imagine .
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Old 12-01-17, 08:51 AM   #7
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guess in theory u could but those pipes themselves are rubbish to put it politely!

the biggest pain replacing them is taking the heat shields off, its much easier to have bumper off, release the radiator, drain the coolant, take downpipe off then u have access to the bottom part of it so much more easily.

word of advice doing it though, make sure battery is totally disconnected, as the heat shields close to the alternator which can touch and spark.
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Old 12-01-17, 09:16 AM   #8
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Just made an appointment with the Peugeot dealer/garage.
The car isn't from there, but this Peugeot dealer is close to where I live.

They'll exchange the banjobolt + washers just to see if that fixes the problem.
Costs 60 Euro's, but gives at least some certainty of what's to come.

If the line is indeed faulty / failing, I'll head back to the garage from where the car came. It's a 3 hour round trip there, so I'll rather not make it in vain.
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Old 17-01-17, 11:13 AM   #9
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Ordered the oil line at DetroidTuned too, just to be safe .
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